heartless

yeah, flare nut wrenches.. commonly used for brake line work.. probably could have gotten a whole set locally for less money with shipping and all.. most auto parts stores should have them.

you are very welcome.

go here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ find your model and year... find the appropriate section. torque specs should be listed

wow.. good thing you werent going very fast. Had something similar happen with a Caddy once, in my driveway.. except it ripped the ball joint right out of the control arm... had to replace both the control arm and the ball joint

is this an auto climate control car, or manual?

for service manual and wiring diagrams, try here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

seeing it here, too... not thrilled I really dont care about stats, that is not what i come here for

my money is on the tires... does not take much cupping wear to make noise, and by the time you can actually see it, it has been around awhile.

I understand plenty about electricity, but i do not "understand" resistors and their ratings. About all i know about resistors is they impede the flow of electricity... but ratings, and how & when to use them? sorry, no clue. I am a generalist, not a specialist. One does not need to be an electronics tech wizard to understand what is going on, however. Seems to me, you are expecting everyone to be like you, and know this kind of stuff, when the simple fact is many dont. And to be perfectly honest, one does not need to understand all the little nuances to be able to use something like a Loadpro. Now, can we please get back on topic?

the air bags are in the sides of the back rest, not the bottom part you sit on.

and a lot of people dont - aren't techy enough to know how to use the resistor. for me, the 80 bucks would be worth the cost. I am good with a lot of things, but I am not an electronics tech. and considering a fuel pump is gonna cost at least $150, probably more.. well worth the cost for the load pro if the problem is not the pump itself - that would be at least $70 saved..

should be the very first couple of pages of the wiring section - "General Description" - "How to use this manual". if you dont already have it bookmarked.. add this site to your collection: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

yup, typically the business end, as jonathan says.. if you go to the beginning of the wiring section, it will tell you how the connectors are viewed & labeled, and how to tell a male from a female in the drawings. as for the color abbreviations... you cant have "B" stand for several different colors - ie: black, blue, brown... so some other letters need to be chosen to differentiate. B is usually reserved for black... blue is sometimes BL or Bl, but not always.. I have seen brown listed as Br before... lol, charcoal is not a wiring color, tho.. so probably not

yeah, if you have the carpet back, and things are reasonably quiet around you, you should hear it when you turn the key on... it does not run continuously, it runs in a short burst to prime the lines then shuts off, so what you should hear is a brief hum only for a second or so when you turn the key to on another option for testing fuel pump function is to disconnect the fuel line from the engine, and stick the end in a clear bottle, then turn the key on... you should get fuel out of the line

interesting that your 99 has a 253... i had an 02 with a 251 and my 04 has a 251, but the 05 parts car is a 253 (all three Foresters) curious if the vin number on the strut tower and the one in the dash are the same? How long have you owned this car? edit to add... interesting little tidbit - had no idea... (from vehiclehistory.com) "The Forester used the EJ25D from 1997 to 1998, then switched to the EJ251 from 1999-2004, the EJ253 in 1999 and again from 2005-2010, the EJ254 from 1998-2002 in the T25 version and from 2004-2020, the EJ255 from 2004-2013 and the EJ257 from 2004-2005 in the XT trim."

yeah, you need to fold the seat back down (lift the bottom to the upright position first, then pull up on the knob on the seatback, close to the windows) you may need to remove a strip (could be metal or plastic) that goes between the seat back carpet and the cargo carpet and holds both down, but if someone was in there before you, it may already be gone... just behind the seat back, lift/fold back the carpet, and you should see the access covers - there will not be any sticky material (sound deadening) over top of them. in a wagon, the access covers are BEHIND the seat, in the cargo area - not under the seat.

there is nothing incomplete about it if you understand what you are looking at. Granted, it is not the most intuitive system in the world, but it is valid. Ref. to 2-8 = section 2 of the manual, chapter 8 [W1A0] = the specific part of that section/chapter... If you look at the table of contents, there is a sub-chapter labeled "W" so W1, refers to the page number for that sub-chapter... A is the first heading, 0 refers to the whole heading subject if it was referring to specific line in a sub-chapter the reference would look something like [W1A3] or something along those lines. (that particular reference is for line 3 of the above sub-chapter & heading and reads "Disconnect connector from fuel pump") as for the missing access panel.. pretty obvious someone had been in there before and didn't bother to put it back - so yeah.. idiots. and for the 8mm nuts - is it possible they are nothing but rusted lumps? or are those missing as well (more idiot behavior)? (ie: possibly broken off?) if you do find some - i would recommend using a good penetrating oil and letting it soak for a bit before attempting to remove them. And when you do start on them.. exercise a ton of patience! the studs are rather small, and easily broken..

sorry, but they are NOT the same I can not put rear shock/strut from the other half's outback on my forester, and vice versa.. they are completely different beasts his are small and look like an old school shock absorber with only one bolt at the bottom... mine are the larger struts that bolt to the hub with 2 bolts Call them whatever you like, they are not the same for "all" Subaru's since the 80s

generally speaking, wheel bearings dont vibrate enough that the driver notices vibration... 99.8% of the time it is noise that is noticed first - whining, growling.. the sound changes with load force. Even our old 95 Dodge Ram made growling noises before the bearing gave out... and it was a pretty spectacular failure, lol she locked up almost completely... and when we went to change it, the balls fell out of the housing... it was that bad.

i had a similar problem with a 95 Legacy... but in my case, it was a bad coil - there is a video of it somewhere... ah, found it...

it seriously makes no difference left or right in fact, it is frequently used as a diagnostic tool... swap axle positions to see if there are any changes in certain symptoms - vibrations, noise, etc

no, it will not - they are the same left to right

LOL, spell check only checks for spelling, not grammatical use/context

so google lied to me... go figure - LOL

All Subarus were AWD from 1994 onward. They stopped producing the FWD versions at that time. and why would 77K be questionable? it does happen. Not often, granted, but it does happen.