hatchsub

haha yea it was so fun to watch though

Yea that was really the way to go with these cars. Not obnoxious at all and nice deep sound to let ya know....hey this is a flat four MAN!!!!

bump!

Its been bugging me for awhile. He used to be a big part of this forum and now has not been on in about a year or so. Just curious is all. Hell i don't even have a subaru anymore and still find time to lurk on here

http://wenatchee.craigslist.org/cto/4848232744.html its a 1982 subaru gl-10 sedan with a blown motor. Seems promising. I am currently looking at this one and another in the for sale section but i would really love for a board member nearby to help me out. Thanks if you can. Steve

being a fl-10 2wd its almost 100% that its a carter-weber one barrel as previously mentioned. If thats the case you DO NOT want it. Ive had a few of those carbs and they are garbage. The hitachi was a much better design. Not much more power but more reliable. Your brat should have the hitachi.

Hey Russ. Sending a PM your way.

Yea I've heard that before too which is why I'm interested if its in good shape. It looks pretty clean...but i cant tell from CT lol.

Stumbled on this gem while hunting for a coupe or sedan. I was wondering if anyone in the area can look at it for me and tell me if its something worthwhile? I just don't want rust. http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/ctd/4833761899.html

My former ride had ported heads that i had a local shop do for me. If i remember right he did not remove too much material. HIs goal was to smooth any transition area such as under the valves and any corner and smooth the walls everywhere. He also did a 5 angle valve job and shaved .030 off each head to up the compression. That motor moved out pretty well for itself even without a aftermarket cam grind. I did however have a tuned weber for that combo as well as a true 2" exhaust the whole way back. As for that rib i think he removed most of it if not all of it.

Im voting a vacuum leak without seeing it. Ive had that happen many a time. Hitachis when running correctly are good carbs. The problem is most are on their last legs by now. And they are overly complicated. If you do end up finding its the carb i strongly recommend ditching it and all associated vacuum tubes for a weber carb.

The last one i saw on the road was completely rusted out but ran great. I kno the guy too. The thing has less than 100k on it or at least it did. Was fairly solid the first time i saw it. I couldn't believe how bad it got in just a couple of years. New England is killer on these old subarus. If i end up getting one its going to get stuffed into my garage come winter and not come out until spring....kinda like my iroc camaro.

Sold it this morning. Guy just got back to me. Real nice guy. Oh well the hunt continues.

im in connecticut. Id be down for flying in...doing a trans swap and driving home. Finding a solid EA81 car out this way is damn near impossible at this point so doing something like that would be my only way. That or getting it shipped but id rather have the road trip myself.

Yea i figure if its still up there is a 50% chance its still around. I just tried calling and leaving a message. Id really like some more detailed photos of typical trouble spots. If all looks good i might be back in the subaru world soon.

Found this on CL and it seems pretty solid from the pictures. Needs a Trans but thats easy. I just want a rust free body to work with. Oh yea is a '86 brat http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/4789456407.html

I had a write-up here somewhere on the factory stereos and how to wire in a new one. Gloyale is correct though that the factory combined grounds in their harness. Therefore for every aftermarket stereo i have wired into an old subaru i have used only the constant 12v, acc 12 and one main ground. All the speakers got brand new wires run out from the head unit. Its more work than a modern car stereo install but you get good results if you take your time and soldier connections too.

Where the hell have i been. When did you pick that up Pete?

its most likely a switch issue . Replacing just the switch itself is not too bad and would actually save you the time of converting to manual windows.

You will also need the manual trans radius rod plates. They have a mount for the manual trans crossmember that the auto pieces do not.

Im in this to see what others say too as I'm about to do a berliner in my Dodge d150. For 34 dollars id say its worth a try if others are saying it worked well.

Unfortunately diesel oil does not have the high levels of zinc it once had. I should know as i did a bunch of research for my big cam camaro that is still flat tappet. Im actually running an oil called Spectro that is meant for off road applications mainly because of its high zinc levels. Have not had any cam problems using this oil.

Jets should be 140/140 mains for a stock application. If your modified you may have to go up a bit in jet size. it is stamped on the jets.

To each his own opinion i guess. Im just speaking from the few carter-webers ive run across along with the hand full on this board that have asked questions similar to this about poor running. Also, the few carter-webers that ive run across on my end have been low mileage examples and still had poor running problems. I can understand how they would have a slight advantage over the hitachi in mid range but that advantage is quickly overruled by the general design. If you have to pull the entire intake to take the carb off thats a poor design in my book. A weber 32/36 is even simpler than a carter-weber and you get the benefit of a brand new carb...not a 30+ year old one that may or may not work correctly.

Honestly if you have not opened the package it came in i would send it back. The carter-weber was a pretty poorly designed carburetor. In order to take it off the motor you have to remove the entire intake to get to the two bolts holding the carburetor base down. I have yet to find a carter-weber that runs correctly at this point in time. Even the factory two barrel hitachi was a step up in reliability. My guess is (and this is speaking from experience) is that if you go through the trouble of fixing everything you think is wrong with the carb that it will still not run as nice as you think it should. My advice is to find a hitachi intake manifold and either do a full hitachi swap and spend the time learning to rebuild one of those if you really want a stock appearing engine or....get the hitachi intake and buy a brand new weber carb. It will simplify your life. Yes its expensive compare to other things but you get what you pay for in life. I went up 1 mpg going to the weber and the car ran smoother at all RPMs. It really is night and day how nice the car runs if you properly tune a weber. I had mine running as smooth as fuel injection. I hope your not offended by this but i just dont want to see you go through all that trouble trying to polish a turd so to speak and still end up with sub-par results in the end. Its better to spend a bit more now to avoid that IMO. Just my two cents.