DerFahrer

There's way more than just a clutch slipping. If the pressure plate gives out, the release point on the pedal will get closer and closer to the floor, to the point where you could put all your weight on the clutch pedal and still not be able to shift because the clutch is constantly engaged. It will get worse and worse until the plate gives out entirely and the pedal stays on the floor. Believe it or not, this can all happen within 10 miles! I speak from experience on this Oh and colorado, as a friend (FL peeps gotta stick together ), you probably oughta edit your post so the print is smaller and definitely turn off the caps lock. Mods and admins of the board don't like that, they'll tell you soon enough if you don't change it.

Congrats on getting the car back running... That's one thing I like about 80's Subarus, the two-belt design actually works in your favor. Worry about one cam at a time. With one belt, you have to have everything lined up at once, it can be very frustrating... I don't think the hurricane will head our way, I've lived in FL long enough to say that I think it will veer off before it makes landfall. Will it come dangerously close? Probably. Will we get a full-blown hurricane right through Central FL, again?? I don't think so. Nonetheless, I do have an option of hightailing it out of town should it come this way. Good luck in your part of the state!

I think a bra is a good idea on a long trip, where you can encounter any number of bugs, rocks, and stuff. But I don't understand why anyone would leave one on permanently! Why do you want to protect the front end if you never see it?

Hey a Floridian! Did you replace all the other oil seals? Cam, crank? I have to go redo my timing belt coz my cam seals are now leaking...

One little glitch is no reason to junk the car! Your computer has stored the code that threw the CEL. Find Legacy777's profile and go to his website, there are detailed instructions to pulling those codes... Post whatever you find out and we could lead you in the right direction. I've got a feeling its a MAF sensor though...

Very low miles, I say definitely grab it for that price. I've seen 90-94 Legacies come new off the showroom floor with more miles than that Check the valve covers for obligatory leaks, mileage doesn't matter, it's still a 13-year-old car. Check the knock sensor (on the block directly below the driver's side of the throttle body) to see if it's a grey connector. If it is, replace it with a new one with a white connector, the old ones are prone to cracking and being oversensitive. Make sure the timing belt has been changed, if it's still on its original which it could be at that mileage, get it replaced ASAP before it breaks (although it's not interference so nothing will happen if it does). Besides this, just check the obvious stuff. That is such low mileage though that I personally would pay $3k for it. That could last longer than a new car you could buy, no kidding.

You always can, that's one of the reasons wheels have a hole in the center... You will have to break the axle nut loose with the wheel on the ground in order to keep it still, but DON'T do anymore than break it loose until you take the weight off of it! Take it off with the weight on it and you will pretty much ruin your wheel bearing.

bertherr, don't take this the wrong way, but I don't think merely replacing your air filter with a "high-flow" one is going to give you any HP increase. I used to mod my Legacy quite a bit, and then a few things went wrong with it that I needed to fix. Then I caught a bug where I started fixing things that weren't really wrong but not performing at 100%. I still have the bug now. And would you believe my Legacy is a lot faster now, completely stock and running absolutely flawlessly, then when I had a couple mods done to it. My motto is: You have to make a car run right before you can make a car run fast. I have a cheap $10 Purolator air filter in both of my cars right now too... and that old Cavalier Z24 that was tooling around with me last night can tell you my Legacy isn't exactly slow

I shuddered when reading that... Chrome automatically makes a car look old to me, straight from the 50's...

Nissan trucks rule. My granpa had an 85 Nissan p'up, stripped with no a/c, no radio, 5spd of course... Not only was that thing tough as nails (he actually managed to carry 25 80-lb bags of concrete in it [that's 1 TON), that thing would skat! :cool: It was the twin-spark engine, that's all I remember of it. It was stolen in 97 or 98, I think... Then just this past weekend, I helped tow an Audi Quattro that was demolished by a tree from Hurricane Charley, and we towed it on a heavy-duty trailer with a 95 Nissan p'up 4cyl. Aside from being a little sluggish, the truck had no problem at all.

Plain and simple... Don't worry about it yet. Let the old axle start clunking and knocking and tear itself to pieces. Run it out to its last leg, then replace it with a rebuild with a lifetime guarantee from www.cvaxles.com for $55. The best axles I've ever heard of, and a proven guarantee. Legacies are so easy to replace axles on it isn't funny. Much more so than 80's Scoobs. I can do one in a half-hour. To remove the axle nut, you must unstake it first (there is a section of the lip hammered into the notch on the axle, you have to bend it out to unlock it), then just put the correct size socket on it, put a breaker bar on that, and then put a pipe (perhaps the one from your hydraulic jack) on the breaker bar. With that kind of leverage, a middle-schooler could break the nut loose. Pop the knuckle off the balljoint, and you will have enough room to pull the axle out. Do those roll pins on the inside joint enough times and it will be cake. Just take a punch, line it up on the lip of the pin, and go away at it. Don't be a wussy, hammer the hell out of it. Put the new axle on to where the holes are lined up, and hammer the new pin in from the tapered side of the axle joint. I typically use a screwdriver that you can switch bits on, so you can hold the pin in place while you hammer it in. I've done this procedure no less than 7 times. Good luck!

My 88 XT GL MPFI 5MT doesn't like to be pulled away from a stop below 1000rpm, if I do so, it sometimes throws a CEL, then turns it off above 2000rpm. I finally got around to pulling the code, and it's 32, the O2 sensor... Is this typical of EA82 engines, or should I look into replacing my sensor? TIA...

Anything in the Impreza line (all year Foresters included) are made in Japan. Anything in the Legacy line (Outbacks and Baja's too) are made at SIA..

You broke the tranny that fast? What kind of condition do you think it was in when you put it in, high miles or something?

All I have to say, don't dive into any puddles

True about the external HG leak. I'd go with the 02 model, just coz it's newer...

No problem! Actually, the SVX master Himself (Huck) is coming down in an Outback. I want the majority of cars there to be Alcyones of some sort, but we're definitely not gonna kick you out if you come in another type of Sooby

Just out of curiosity, did you plug the MAF sensor back in after your finished? If this sensor is unplugged, the engine will do just what you said. If all electronics check out, do a compression test to see if you did it right. There is also a very involving and precise head-bolt tightening process on 2.2's that will cause problems if not done correctly... Find a Haynes manual for 90-98 Legacies for that procedure.

Not to fear guys, it seems Brats take hurricanes pretty well. There is a showroom-quality 87 Brat for sale not 200 feet from my house (that I want incomprehensibly bad:)) that rode out the storm and still looks great. I fared okay, I have a fallen tree in my backyard, but that's it, both cars are A-Okay.

Excellent tip. I never thought of that. My XT's HH works intermittently, and it's a brand-new valve. That very well could be the problem.

Blasphemy!

Looks like you Tampa folk got spared! It shifted at the last minute and went for Fort Myers instead. Now it's coming straight for Orlando

I had originally planned to have an Orlando XT meet (I know several FL XT owners who would attend) but after some consideration, I thought I'd just make it an Alcyone meet, so any XT/XT6 and SVX would be welcome. The date is set for October 8-10, but we're not 100% sure of what we're going to do yet. If you think you could attend, please post any ideas or questions here, I'm subscribing to this thread. Here is the link to the NASIOC thread, which links to the SVX board thread, which then links to the original XT6 board thread. Hope to see plenty of Subaru's forgotten sports cars at the meet!

And that's a big if... The most loaded Outlander with AWD actually has the worst 0-60 time of any car for sale in the country at a snail-pace 11.2 seconds

I'm worried too. Orlando isn't gonna get the full brunt of it like you guys are, but still I'm concerned about hail and downed branches, etc. I've spent WAAAY too much money on my cars to see them get destroyed in one day. I think I might ask a friend to meet me at my college tomorrow so I can leave one car in the parking garage and leave the other one in my 1-car garage. Unless my job is open tomorrow and I hafta go to work, then I dunno what I'm gonna do Good luck dude, and remember, Subaru guru Opie is in your town too...