DerFahrer

My 91 Legacy survived Frances too. Just covered it up and that's it. I don't think Ivan will affect Central Florida too much, but I really really hope everyone in the panhandle is getting ready for a SERIOUS storm!

I think all 2.2's are a .039-.043 gap. I'd put it somewhere in the middle...

Let me see if I correctly understand what you're doing. You're trying to remove the nut from the tie-rod end, but the bolt spins inside the tie-rod instead of staying put so you can loosen the nut? In the first place, there's absolutely no need to remove the tie-rod when doing an axle replacement The only thing you need to do is pop the balljoint out of the knuckle, then you can swing the whole hub and strut assembly out and then will have enough room to pull the axle out of the hub. But if what I said is correct, you might need a new tie-rod end. They're not expensive, I remember $40 and that was the dealer...

This is the one thing I hate about Subarus. Their shifter design makes removing components of the shifter (in my case, to replace bushings) extremely difficult. I'd rather replace all my front oil seals all over again instead of doing this. I don't know how to accurately depict what I'm trying to do with words, so I made a very good pic of the situation : I'm trying to get the yellow part off the green part. I've already removed the pins, and I've been hammering against the yellow part with a tie-rod fork levered against a bolt on the tranny case. I have spent no less than 30 minutes straight hammering on this piece, yet it will not come off. I've immersed it in PB Blaster and rust penetrator. I'd keep hammering, but I'm scared of what damage I could do to the transmission, as I'm basically slamming it into gear everytime I hit on it. Has anyone else tried something that worked for them? I'm out of ideas... Thanks in advance...

Let's not forget that a few years ago, Nissan resold some `71 240Z's in pristine condition as very special used cars... But there was more of a demand for that than there would be for a Brat I'm afraid... I've always had really good luck with my Subaru dealer, they took a little extra time locating me a steering bellows for my XT, but that's pretty much it. They've always gotten the part somehow or another.

Agreed...

That's actually not a big deal. Subaru's don't use the rear brakes much. You can go through 5 front pads by the time the rears need attention...

Usually the only reason they won't come off is because of slight corrosion from not moving for years. The EA82's have two gears, one for each belt, and on my XT, the outer one was very difficult, but the inner one was ready to come off. I'm such a big strong guy that I pulled the outer one off with a rag... I put the slightest bit of oil inside it during reinstallation and it slid right on...

vrg3? On the USMB????

This is why I stay away from these engines. Heard too many horror stories...

He mentioned swapping cruise computers from his MT wagon donor car, so I'm pretty sure he had to make sure that was true before using it. But yes, always good to make sure, don't wanna put the clutch in and blow your engine up

The exhaust studs are screwed into the head, so I personally believe that the worst case scenario is that instead of loosening the nuts you will just remove the whole stud. Just go to your local Subaru dealer and get 4 new studs, then match up some nuts and washers to them. Then just install the new studs with a strong threadlocker and you're set.

All you have to do is look at the VIN and you'll know which year SOA thinks it is...

Skip, I say leave the wagon as stock as you can. 94 GT wagons are very rare, about as rare as a GL-10 Touring Wagon.

I don't know of anyone that's put a WRX engine in a 911, but I do remember an eBay auction a few months ago where someone successfully put a 2.7 liter XT6 engine in a 911...

You don't have a transfer case per se, you have a center differential. The gearbox, front differential and center differential are ALL contained inside the transmission casing (God I love Subarus!! ). Your front differential shares its gear oil with the transmission, so it's included in the transmission's capacity. Your center differential however is a sealed unit, so it is not included in the gear oil capacity. I've worked with Redline before and if I remember correctly, MT90 is not recommended for use in differentials. You might want to put 75W90 (no NS) in your rear differential. But whatever you choose to do, Josh is right. The tranny takes something like 3.5 or 3.7 quarts, and the differential you just basically fill until it starts draining out of the fill plug, which should be about a quart.

I agree, a big sale is the perfect celebration I will be doing a lot of business with you guys in the future... it's time for the central FL area to have its own EA82T secret weapon

XT's came out in 85; the XT6 came out in 88; there were NO XT6's in 1990 and a double-digit number of 1990 XT's as I understand; and 91 was the last year for the XT line.

The bucking is a typical Subaru thing. I've learned how to drive without doing it, you just have to let off really slowly. We USA'ens had the 55-mph speed chime on the XT Turbo's and XT6's. But we had a little switch with its own key with which we could turn it off. I don't know if you can do anything except pull the wire to the chime. The cruise could be something really simple, if you can confirm for me that the car is a manual transmission. There is a little rubber piece on the top of the clutch pedal that presses a button when the clutch is engaged. This button tells the cruise control computer that the clutch is engaged and to set the speed. If that piece has fallen out (it's happened to me before) then the computer will think the clutch is disengaged and not activate the cruise control. That's the first thing you should check out. If that doesn't help, then it's something electrical and I'm no electrician :-\ Good luck!

I thought all cars with the Outback moniker were 2.5's? Oh well, I've been wrong on a lot of Subaru stuff lately, maybe a sign I need to start reviewing?:-\ If it's a 2.2, then buy it with confidence. You will have one of Subaru's best engines ever.

The 96-98 Outbacks are some of the most notorious head-gasket blowers in Subaru history. I'd say try to dicker down a little lower, as it does have 117k miles on it, but regardless of what price you get it for, do keep my first statement in mind...

Go to your local auto parts store and pick up a steering wheel puller. It will thread into the crank sprocket and then you will tighten the bolt against the crankshaft to pull the sprocket away from it. You will have to remove the radiator to use it though, and when you reinstall it, you can put a tiny bit of oil on the inside of the sprocket to help.

Setright, I've actually wanted to PM you about this main bearing issue you keep bringing up. I thought you said it affected 1990MY's only, Michael's is a 93? I tried to come up with a way to prove that it's something else besides main bearings, but alas I can't. If the clutch cable is in adjustment, the throwout bearing is not in contact with the clutch plate and is sitting there motionless. If the clutch were to be out of adjustment, the throwout bearing could be in constant contact with the clutch plate, but I can tell you firsthand that it doesn't make any whining sounds in this condition. It will either squeak at you or make more of a rattling noise, because the bearing isn't attached very firmly to the clutch fork, it has room to move around a bit unless there's full pressure on it (disengaged). All you can do is change your gear oil like Setright said, and look for little chunks of metal. If they're practically microscopic, that's not a big deal. If they're a little bigger, then yeah you might be up for a tranny rebuild later...

It carried over from other countries where by law, you must leave your parking lights on while the car is parked. Since Subarus automatically turn their lights off when you turn the car off, there has to be a way for you to bypass that to leave your parking lights on, hence the switch...

130psi isn't what you want to see on a brand-new engine, but one with 190k miles? That's just fine. Really, you're looking more for even numbers across all the cylinders more than you're looking for high numbers. If you had two cylinders down a bit, there's a possibility of a leaking head gasket. If you have one cylinder down, could be a burnt exhaust valve. If all 4 cylinders are down significantly, your rings are probably shot. But 130psi is good. Keep up the maintenance and that engine should last you another 100k