DerFahrer

Duane, to be honest, I think you'll find the Subaru to be a lot more reliable than the VW :-\

Also check your transmission mount...

I have a much more unorthodox method of cooling replacement, but it's never failed me. I just drain all the old coolant out, and stick a running garden hose in the radiator. I start the engine up, and just let it run like that, water pouring in the radiator, circulating through the cooling system, and draining out the other side of the radiator. You can do this for a while, the cool water will keep the engine cool. Once you see pretty clear water coming out of the radiator drain, shut the engine off, and turn the hose off. Then add your new coolant, burp the radiator properly, and wa-la! You have a clean cooling system

It's a delicate prodecure compressing that thing. I hope you didn't put a huge amount of pressure on it immediately, if so you may have ruined it, and they run about $75 new Once you remove it, you need to compress it in such a manner. Put it in a vise like you did, but compress it VERY slowly, to the point where it will take you a minute or two to compress it completely. If you put pressure on it all at once, the hydraulics inside it go crazy and screw it up, to where it gets nearly impossible to recompress. I learned all this the hard way on my 91 Legacy 2.2, that's why I know how much a new tensioner is :-\

I don't wanna suggest this if it's cheating, I don't know the SCCA rules real well. But if you find a junked 90-94 Legacy with air suspension, snag the swaybars off it. They have the thickest swaybars of any Legacy I know of. I don't know what the specs on 97 Legacy bars are, but the air ride Legacy has a 19mm front bar and an 18mm rear bar. And trust me, 2mm makes a lot of difference. I got my Legacy to perform as well as it did on the Dragon with a Turbo rear swaybar Again, I don't know if that's legal to stay in your class... Then of course, try a set of really good tires. Falken Azenis perhaps. Maybe get a set of steelies and put those tires on em, then you'll have a set just for autoXing. And yeah, change those plugs and wires... That is a bit too many miles on the same set Good luck Dave and have fun!

I used that Engine Restore when I first got my Legacy, but my engine is in such a good state of tune, it did no good. It didn't harm anything, at least as far as I can tell, so in your situation, I'd actually say give it a shot. I'd run 20W50 anyway. With that many miles, the oil seals are finally starting to age, and your engine bearings might be pushing the service limit on clearances.

It's been a while since I took that "plug" off, so I don't remember what the cam looks like behind it. But I do know that would be the oil supply for the turbo if it were a Turbo Legacy. That's why you see it on the passenger head but not on the driver head. That's the only purpose of that plug. Nonetheless, I still don't see how you're going to get a distributor to fit in there. And who says that the distributor off an EA82 is going to time the engine properly? Let's analyze this here... The distributor fires each plug based on the distance between each terminal on the distributor cap and the speed at which the rotor is turning. The distributor is just the right diameter so that by the time piston #1 is at or close to TDC on the compression stroke, the rotor should reach that terminal in time to fire the plug. It's designed specifically to spin at a predetermined ratio in relation with an EA82 camshaft in order to time the engine properly. What if you manage to concoct this creation and get the disty to drive off an EJ22 cam and fire? You set the rotor facing the #1 terminal at piston #1 TDC compression. But what if the diameter of the distributor is too small? (Keeping in mind here Subaru firing order is 1-3-2-4) What if the rotor has already fired plug #3 and is already halfway to firing plug #2 when cylinder #3 is at TDC and ready to be fired? As the saying goes, ANYTHING is possible if you have the ability, determination, and most inportantly, money. But you are literally making things much more complicated in the hopes of making things simple.

How? How are you going to find a distributor that has the right specifications to time the motor properly? How are you going to make the camshaft drive the distributor? How is the distributor going to advance? Imaginiative yes, but not nearly plausible...

I know exactly how many factory DOHC EJ22 Subarus have been produced worldwide Only in the 22B (400 of those made)...

The steering and also the brake MC. I'm sure a TT could pass US emissions if SOA really tried... subGSR, I have never seen anything older than an 1978MY Subaru here in the US. Your GSR would be priceless to a Subaru collector here in the US...

Do you mean upgrade to RS or Legacy Turbo calipers? If you can get wheels at least 15", then yes it's definitely worth it. Nonturbo calipers are single-pot, T-Leg and RS calipers are 2-pot.

Okay cabin air filter, that's entirely separate from any engine filter. Thanks for clearing that up

On the Legacycentral board, I am one of the few whose Legacy will hit 7000rpm, everyone else says their 90-94 Legacy bumps off the limiter at 6500. So our two cars are special I guess

The breather element refers to PCV filters. Since Subarus draw the air for the PCV system directly from the intake hose, your air filter doubles as your breather filter. The N/R, I'm pretty sure, means that there is no such part to replace.

From one Michael to another, good to see ya again! 200k huh? Big deal I say

136k on my 91 Legacy. Car runs so perfectly that I think the odometer is going too fast

I hate to say this, but it sounds like the pressure plate kicked the bucket. Regardless of how it was used, 227,000 miles is a lot for a clutch. Be happy it went that far. My Legacy clutch went from driveable to undriveable in 6 miles, the release point being on the floor. When I pulled it into the mechanic the next day, the pedal stayed on the floor. I'm not ruling out a hydraulic issue, it's entirely possible. But it does sound to me like new clutch time.

I agree 100%. I only did the crank seal when I did the timing belt on my Legacy, now I think the oil pump could use a reseal, and I can definitely tell the cam seals are leaking . I made sure I replaced all oil seals when I did the XT's timing belts.

What a fun-looking project! Can't wait to hear about some stories about you kicking Subaru-n00b behind!

Hope the engine wasn't damaged from the overheating (blown HG, cracked head...) Make sure you get an OEM Subaru T-stat. Subies usually don't like aftermarket ones...

Okay, this is starting to irritate me now. (To recap, 88 XT, nonturbo EA82, MPFI spider intake) I've run a couple tanks of fuel-injector cleaner through it now, and I just did a tune-up this weekend. Fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. The car does indeed run better, but still, every once in a while, the thing just falls on its rump roast. No matter how hard you mash the gas, it'll just take its sweet time climbing the revs, then it'll wake up and surge forward, chirping the tires if i'm on it enough. Where's the knock sensor on this beast? Wonder if I can still get one?

I replaced one on my 91 Legacy, but that was because I screwed the old one up. $55 for aftermarket??? The OEM ones are like $40!! Does it make the sound when the car is running? If not I wouldn't even worry about it...

THAWA is correct. It's a differential because of what it does, not because of what it is. A very unconventional differential, but a differential nonetheless.

Again, I've had best experiences with the cheapest, junkiest gear oil I can get. The cheaper, the better...

I've only ordered 2 parts from them I think, but they've always helped me out, items arriving promptly, emails answered quickly and informatively...