4x4moose

for some reason i keep going through cluch cables, i had to drive about 70 miles last nigth with no cluch, man was that fun! so time to put another one in and i don't rember if it should go under the steering colum or over it.

understood. i know the float is to high(with top inverted) cause its running rich, so how much should i drop it? like 2 to 5mm or so. gd, what do you have yours set at?

i check my jets they all seem to be what gd calls for, but the primary air bleed i think is a 110 but it could be a 170, i just need to check the emulsion tubes, not sure how do to do that. im thinking that they are going to be f50 since ever thing else is stock. so were do i go from here? just change the idle mix jet to a 50? i can try to find the 60 that was in there. but i rember it ran worse with the 60 in it but, i have spent a lot more time with the card since i changed to the 80. you all have been great help so far. the only thing is that i can think of is the float drop is to low, the lower the float the more fuel and higher would be less right?

so what dose the emulsion tubes do? i have not the slightist idea what the hell they do.

thanks gd, i take a look after she cools off and dries out a little. would napa have the jets i need?

so go smaller on the mains? or larger on the airbleeds? or a combo?

no i'm not lifted, i wish i would take the time to put my lift on. were would this other jet be located? i changed the on on the front of the carb. i believe i change the air jet, there for more air.

ok i'm getting around 16-20 mpg with a weber on my hach. i have been told by many people that i shouldn't be getting less then 25mpg. i uped the jet size from 60 to 80, do i need to go bigger? the plugs are showing me that i'm running rich. my timing is advanced all the way and there is no pinging going on running 87octane. that choke opens and close correctly. any body have any ideas. new plugs/wires/cap/rotor. dose the stock fuel pumt put out to much psi for a weber?

he who has the most lugnuts wins, fact.

disty shop? like a auto electric rebuilder?

my tach will jump like a 1000rpms or so when its cold and seems to go away when it gets warm. im haveing a hard time getting it timed, it seems to be running retarded. disty go out? i was told the bushings are going out.

i don't have a name for the wagon yet, but my 86 hatch, the people that owned it before me called it little red(after i bought it from them they went and bought a 05 red wagon).

that is f**ing nice:headbang: . are those crome wheels the same as the white spoke wheels? i think imight have to go get a set of my spoke rims cromed.

i thought of swaping intake manifolds, but the carb on the bad motor has fallen apart. i would just have to swap carbs. but didn't want to mess with the motor since i know it runs well.

ok there are two vacume silynoid on the intake manifold of the 3at motor, they are the same both with two hoses and two wires that run into two seperate white coneters. the motor form the the with the 4mt dosn't not have it. so what are these for? can i bypass them?

how do you lmean the turbo was loose? play in the shaft? if its not craked or no shaft play i want it.

if your talking about the wastgate opening, well i don't know what would cause the waste gate opening to brake in the first place.

thats the way i was thinking of going. since its cracked, what else could be wrong that i cant see.

i was inspecting my turbo last night, and found three large craks around the waste gate opening. so what to do? see if i can find someone to weld them up and then resurface it? or just realplace it?

well i thinkn i found the cluch i want to use on the hatch. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/83-87-SUBARU-BRAT-1800-SERIES-1-8L-STAGE-3-CLUTCH-KIT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33730QQitemZ8037871806QQtcZphoto .they also have stage 3 clutches for xts, and justys. i asume this cluch will work on my hatch, and the ones for xt's will work on my wagon? correct. anybody seens these cluches or tryed them?

is your coil getting warm when you try to crank it over?

i need to know what vacuum lines i won't need? there are a few weird looking vacuum deals that i have no idea what they are, and my hatch dosn't have them and there are a couple more wires on the parts hatch's motor. i'll try and get some pics tomorrow.

yeah i have a throttle. its a complete running hatch. started it up today and sounds like a chap, besides the bad gas thats in the tank. 244,*** miles and no smoke at all.

i was just looking at it and i don't think it is a hydro motor, the valve cover corners didn't seem to be cut off any way

your do have a point there