4x4moose

i can't give you a step by step but i can tell you that you don't need to remove the caliper and pads. i replace one on my t-wag and my haynes said the same thing. i just pulled the pinch bolt on the bottom of the control arm and the bolt that holds the cv to the hub and then i forget the rest. i don't see any reason at all the remove the pads. but my newness is still wearing off.

i second that. that is bada$$. do you guys(allied arament) have any stickers that i could slap on my car. if not i was if it was ok to have your name sandblasted on one of my windows. i can send you some ideas i've been thinking about at work.

well all of the bounceing has gone away and i think almost all of the switching sides, but when my wheels are straight the wheel is turned to the right. the bounceing was caused by a tire with a big bulge in it.

ok its getting worse and starting to get a good bounce going on. i don't see anything that really looks bent. i'm going to go try and look at this other hatch i saw on my way home today. its on jackstands and the front wheels are already off.

thick mud you say. i know were nahaham canyon is, just never been to far up it.

picture? well all i have is a camera phone. the the pulling changes from side to side when donwshifting(pulls to the left) then upshifting(pulls the to left) then when crusing at speed it does it quickly. i think my cv shafts are causing this. i know they are going out

i will have to take a look at that when i get back from my ride. whats the cost on a new control arm?

ok i was up parting in the woods friday, on my way down there is this corner and a big gravel parking lot on the side, so i decide to do a couple of slides. the first one went fine slid like 30 feet or so. then the second one i hit something and then got two flat tires down the road. so not to drag this on any more, my car pulls to the right now. i don't see any thing the is out in the open. any help would be great.

yeah i rember seeing you at safeway. i see you all over the place. yeah i have the new rad in and it works f-ing good. if the drive really hard it gets a little bit warm but cools right down. yeah birth is somewhere i haven't taken a suby yet.

what about an air pocket. you lost me some where

nice, where did you get it? whats the chances that there is another one? cause i'm keeping my wagon and i want to put an ic on it and turn up the boost.

no, no new tstat. i don't know if i really need it. or do i?

yeah i all foriegn is the only place i really go to get anything for my subys. i just went with the new rad, it was $118, i think it was made by a company called cfs or something works really nice. i perty sure that i don't have a stuck tstat cause i flushed the block and water flowed out and looked like sh**

welcome to the board. if you look at the front of the motor and it has black plastic timing belt covers, then its an ea-82, ohc. if you don't see the timeing belt covers then you have an ea-81 witch is ohv. hope this helps

just put the new rad. in and went for a drive. while i was playing with a peice of rice the neidle started to get close to warm and then next i know its barley warm. so whoever said that my suby would love me for giving her a new rad was right. it also came with a built in oil cooler for an auto trans.

go to ebay. thats were i got mine, it was for a wrx, sounds good. 41 bucks. you might need an adapter to change size of pipe. turbone saw it on my hatch. he siad it was kind of fance looking. i will put a link to it later tonight. it might look kind of ricy but dosen't sound like it at all.

oh ok, i think i will try and get one in the next couple of weeks, i have to rent a storage shed for the wagon this weekend, so there goes the money for a new rad.

ok i went ahead an did it. i just took the bolts off the post and the other two off the diff. and the washers don't look right. the ones on top look way to high. i did keep them seprated. so what did i do worng or anything at all? if you don't unstand what i mean by post i will try and think of a differnt way of explaning it.

i was wondering how i should do this, i see two ways. unbolt the two bolts that come off of the post or unbolt the post(being two bolts to each post). i didn't realive that the mustach bar held the rearend up. what about the bolts on the rearend, they look kind of oblong. but i think a 17mm rench fits on them.

i was going to go get a flush kit tomorrow. what is a re-core never heard of it. i have been meaning to replace all of the hoses.

thats perty cool. looks like it took some time

yeah your right it was a pinhole in the heater hose. i thought for sure that i was coming from the block. i im still haveing over heating problems, well not all the way but getting really hot. i can kind of feel cold spots on the rad. thanks for all the help.

yeah whats the hight like cause i can't see anything right in front of my car and the stock seats suck for rallying.

sorry but i ment for an ea-81.moderate clearnace

yeah its overheating but not going in to the red just outside of it. whats leaking is water and air, i would say its about 60 psi(thats just a guess) and it keeps going after i turn the car off. i don't see any thing in the water or oil. the leak is below the lines running to the heater core. there is also a lot of pressure in the raditor hose on the passenger side.