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and there is no label under the hood? I have a FSM for this setup Can you get a pict?

Craig, most excellent idea You must have some idea how to correct for the camber change Care to show it to?

Joe, The problem you are having is common on SPFI cars. The IAC (Idle Air Control) valve wants it's shuttle cleaned. They have a tendency to get varnish on them and stick. This control valve is mounted on the front of your throttle body, has a cylinder with wires going to it. It can be removed and cleaned with carb cleaner. Hope this helps

Hey V.Versa, EA82's come with a wide variety of fuel systems. Few more specifics may get you an answer. There should be a vacuum line diagram on the under side of your hood. A pict would help greatly If your vacuum diagram is missing, if you list the car, year, and fuel system, maybe somebody can a) look it up in a FSM Check a similar car and send you a pict of the diagram.

Andy, for the clunk to occur due to a drivetrain related entity (i.e. U joint, rear CV rear DOJ, diff, mustache bar bushing, et al) There would have to be power delivered to the rear wheels, is this not correct? You make no mention of having it in 4 wd when this happens and 86 wagons did not have FTAWD. So either it's coming from the front and being transmitted to the body making it feel "rear endish" or....... a consequence of having the rear suspension compressed as the car accelerates. I just want to bark up the correct conifer thats all. Sorry for the intrusion.

Morgan, although the pipe lengths are not equal as they should be. The low end torque is great, (better than factory but I have a Weber also) the pipe size may be too big as it runs out of steam at about 5500 RPM. I think it is running fat in the seconday jet size as I get a loud roar when the secondaries are opened at lower RPM. I have an A/F meter just have not installed it. The "Y" pipes (or "seat of pants" as I call em) are available from any good exhaust pipe manuf. Hope this helps, I'll listen to Ron for my next attempt.

Thanks for the synopisis For Future Reference The coil should have battery voltage on the positive terminal when the key is in the run or crank position If you have battery voltage and no spark on the coil secondary wire (read big fat one sticking out of the top), your ig mod (sometimes called an "ignitor")is toast or the wiring is knackered Just helps with the homework

are you plugging the black "read memory" connectors together? Did you read this link? http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

you can test the booster for proper operation by depressing the brake pedal while it is running - hold the pedal down and turn the engine off. The pedal should fall towards the floor if the booster is recieving vacuum and is not leaking. Internaly collapsed brake lines will cause a hard pedal. As will rust frozen calipers. Note either of these conditions will result in rapid pad wear and hot to the touch wheels near the brake rotors. Hope this helps.

Andrew, all Subaru turbos of our vintage have a Mass Air Flow sensors i.e. MAFs Up through 86 they were flapper door, a.k.a. vane, style MAF's Then in 87 the turbo models got a hot wire MAF. (This by the way answers your other post also) As for the original question now that I am done stepping on it Subi, have you changed the fuel filter lately. It could be a partial plug or limited flow. I might suggest a fuel pressure check to verify fuel pump pressure also. First check the intake plenum to manifold hose clamps (there are two on the short section of rubber hose between the intake plenum (AL part that has "Subaru Turbo" on it) and the intake manifold below. Make sure you can NOT lift the intake plenum by hand. It may look tight but "blow apart" under boost. Settling back down when you take your foot out of it.

Just one more idea. I wanted my duel setup to sit tight against the body, most race set up use an anti reversion (balance tube, "H") so I used a Y infront of the indent in the cross member where the factory set up goes then another Y afterwards. The Ys where 2.25 the pipe is 2", I continued to the rear bumper with 2" and two free flow paks

we have not mentioned dealing with the fuel return set up. Our pumps do not like to be "dead headed" (pumping against a closed line as is the case when the fuel bowl is full). I used the Hitachi set up, unscrewed it from the 'tachi, and it threaded right into the Weber. Some have used after market FPRs (Fuel Pressure Regulator) also, mine seems fine with out one. I will suggest that you change your fuel filter (and vapor separator on EA81's) I did not and on a long up hill pull in third, it would starve for fuel near the top. Changed the filters and it was fine. (I had no problem running this hill floored (read WOT)with the (HiCrappy")

sorry Arche, I didn't mean to dis your fab, little more explaination would have been kewl though. Thanks for the pict looks like a nice set, have you thought of replacing the washers with short pipe nipples? I don't know if this will work on an EA81 engine though, the throttle cable needs offset toward the drivers side.

Ed what a great Ezap suggestion, I am all for organic remadies. Love the smell of apples. My only problem with it is, living in the country I have resident multimice. Bet they would just love to snack on apples. I deal with mice nest vent filters continuely. I doubt the apples would be there long enough to absorb the smell LOL.

Well put GD, your DGAV (Agua Valve) was no doubt converted to an electric choke model (DGEV Electric Valve) with the kit offered by Weber (these kits show up on Ebay often). I have converted to a DGEV 32/36 (which is the size in mm of the primary and secondary throttle bores) and my Brat starts and warms up better than with the Hitachi. Arche's comment about the throttle linkage "20 washers and long bolts" is non sense. A simple throttle cable holder can be fabricated out of a piece of flat steel. This and other concerns are covered by Cameron (who sells a very nice "conversion package" BTW) in this article he wrote. http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/retrofitting_the_weber_dgav_32.htm Very good reading if you plan on this conversion. Hope this helps.

Sorry, GD, but I just went through a problem where my wagon was running very rich. (I have an air fuel ratio meter that showed this) Not to "dis" your reply but running rich produces black smoke. Ted, if your car sits for days between use or you only use it for short runs, moisture will build up in the exhaust components and this moisture will be dispelled during periods of high flow rates (read -standing on it) This produces white smoke as white smoke is an indicator of steam aka vaporized moisture. (note: Burning ATF will also make white/ble smoke as Slag says) This steam is of no concern if after a thorough warm up the vapor ceases. Be forewarned your exhaust may rust through faster though.

Jay, thanks for the props. Collin, the intermittant timer and realy control unit that the above gentlemen speak of is easily found as it is mounted on the trim panel you must take down to access the ECU. This is the panel above your knees when driving and covers the underside of the steering col. If you pull the panel down it is mounted on the edge you will be facing. A small approx 2x2x1"black or gray box. Upluging the unit allows the panel to be removed. Is it possible you had the panel down and forgot to plug it back in? My suggestion of the wper motor park position ground is just another possibility. Good luck, please let us know your findings.

yes the basics are the same but the ECU's may be different. Sorry I have no info on the NA systems.

The hot wire MAF came out in 87. Caleb mine is a hot wire. The 85 was a vane style ie flapper door MAF Arguments Pro Con Hot wire Pro - less restriction to the flow of air more accurate in all temps With it you get a crank angle dist. as Craig says, which is more accurate for firing fuel and controls ig. timing. Quicker responce to air flow changes Con- not "tuneable" with it you get the ECU controled over boost fuel cut bit more fragile than vane Vane style Pro - Has a tuneable spring loaded vane, less spring tension = richer mix Has a over boost switch which can be easily unplugged Con - Moving mechanical parts Some restriction to the air flow (has to push the flapper open) Standard distrib. with vacuum advance diaph.on side. Hope this helps, if I missed anything or errored, please chime in

Collin, the problem is in the wiper motor gear train. This is attached to the wiper motor which is beside the drivers side hood hinge. You will see a ground wire from the center, make sure it has a clean connection to ground. If that doesn't fix it, take the round cover off and clean the "wiper" contacts under it. This function controls both the int wipers and the park position. Hope this helps

The XT ECU is under the rear parcel shelf, the read memory (black) connectors and test mode (green)are beside it Here is another good reading link http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

you're very welcome, glad to hear it's fixed

a compression test be a wise thing to do IF you see the pass side cyl lower than the driver's side you can bet the pass side timing belt slipped a tooth or two

Dan this is classic govenor problem Did you debur the shuttle following my instruction in the repair manual or did you just clean it off? you may want to get a boneyard unit and try it BTW you have a steel worm drive gear so very doubtful you have it apple cored. This happened to the nylon worm gears.

Connected my 0-scope to check spark voltage Looked great?? Decided to rev it abit so grabbed the throttle cable and pulled. She stumbled but then rev'd fine and the spark got better as it should with my ignition system. Did it again as I felt a strange "wind" blowing on my hand?? No mechanical fan on her so where was the blowing coming from? Did some searching and--- I have the IC connected to the factory intake plenum in such a way as to cause a forced fit - this done so it could not "blow apart", so I thought. Well it had moved to a less than tight fit, therefore at low boost levels and off boost, it fit and sealed fine. Read no leak. BUT when the boost pressure got high enough, the hose blew back a bit and allowed leakage. Lower the boost and the design pushed the hose back into a sealed position. So much for over engineering?? I am designing a better solution for the intake plenum. Well -- Same fuel squirt with less air yields a rich mix - bingo. Thanks for all the help on this one, it did have me going for a bit. Thanks especially to ______,as he had suggested this but at a different connection location. As an aside, I like to look at the positive side of everything - a lot of things got cleaned and adjusted in pursuit of the solution. She is running better than before the problem. Still no CRX killer (I am a realist) but keeps up with traffic. Boost on brothers but keep them hoses tight.