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Wagons, please see my post on my 87 dash http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4387 If you look at the middle picture in the position I think you are asking about, you will see a blue rocker switch and a chrome ring with a red center (It is a small push button) I put these there, (blue switch controls the air conditioning, red button is for "Da Bomb") This was (and on your car is) a blank - no switches fitted, atleast in the American cars I've seen Our "recirculate" is the second detent on the "AC" button called "AC Max" hope this helps

Tom , my bet is that Flowmaster never handled a real "Hurst" T handle. It is ergonomically designed and feels great (except when the temp is below 20 deg F :^0 They did have a felt fuzzy model for this problem). Trog had the dash down pat, the switches he missed are for the aux rad fan - 2 b installed and the clock dim funtion (I use my head lights all the time and this switch puts the clock back to normal brightness). The first green turbo light is an indicator that the IC fan and H20 injection are getting voltage. They are controlled via a relay (as are all aux functions) that is triggered by a aux. turbo light pressure switch. The blue switch next to the fan blower speed turns the AC on and off. Red button is for as Steve points out "Da Bomb". A very effective anti tailer smoke screen. The three lower gauges are for the tranny temp, the fuel pressure and the amperes being delivered to/drawn from the battery. The material is Sintex, THE building material of the future. http://www.sintex-plastics.com/ P.S. Oh yea of advanced years - remember "The Graduate" line "invest in plastics" well this is today "invest in Sintex" Thanks for the props, guys _____________ People often say I have way too much time on my hands- to which I reply, "time is relative, put your free time to constructive use".

I have had good luck with the "one man bleeder kit" NAPA, Autozone, Advanced all carry it, bout 10 bucks It is a check valve and a hose. Remove the nipple and grease the threads (this prevent air from being drawn back in), hook up the check valve and hose and pump slowly. Hope this helps

the key here is the back fire, I will assume you mean under the hood as in through the intake system. This indicates a lean mixture, sounds like the ECU does not know the engine is cold. This indicates a problem with the FI coolant sensor. These do go bad but most times they just need the contacts cleaned. I think I know your next question - Where is it and how do I get the contacts cleaned? I do not have my factory service manual handy but if you have no other response I'll promise to dig it out of the library.

I have a question for you Oregon. You say you adjusted the timing after the belt change. Did it need very much adjustment? If the driverside belt was off by a tooth the ignition timing would need reset Changing the belts should not effect ignition timing You can also test the EGR for proper sealing as Al says, by gently pushing the diapragm open at idle with a small stick, if the idle stumbles and changes - the EGR valve is sealing and the passage is clear. Like the man says. No need to remove it, yet. If the solenoid were electricly open you would get a CEL If it were plumbed wrong - that could cause some pinging, sounds to severe to be this. Tell me about the ignition timing please.

To go with the engine mods here is the dash and it's "stuff"

thanks for looking and for the suggs I really do not want to tear her down, I have a couple extra EA82Ts I could build - again thanks for the reccos I have a G-Tec PRO but do not have an accurate weight on the wagon. Will get to a weigh station soon. On the lightened flywheel, sorry I have to disagree with Offroad She seems to spin up faster due to the lower angular momentum I can't get to the gear shift fast enough if I stand on the loud pedal in first gear. But I do not like the drive line shock hitting second hard so I shift at about 5.7 k Now in second and third -7 grand and it's still pulling hard - ask Trogdor The problem I thought I might have is starting from a stop, but that is not the case, she pulls out just fine. Even with a 1000 lb trailer behind. Now where an I gonna fit the flux capacitor? On the dash? see other post

87 turbo wagon 4wd 5 speed (James Bond button) She has a Bythesea built short throw shifter (w/Hurst "T" handle) Redline NS gear oil. I am about out of mods I can make to this lump aside from the flux cap. and maybe a bigger turbo Alas she is still a Suba-toad Any ideas?

Al was going to email you but never heard back after I sent the last email to you, maybe I had the wrong address? The int wiper timer is mounted on the panel you must take down to see the ECU, the one under the steering col. When you lower the panel it is mounted on it, about center, it's a black or gray box This is a very common problem and has been traced to 1 bad solder contacts in the timer 2 a fault in the ground wiper mounted on the wiper motor gear drive. hope this helps

have you given any though to a bad FI coolant sensor? It is mounted in the upper rad hose connection "goose neck" and has wires coming from it (there are two sensors mounted here, the one with a connector directly on it is for the dash gauge) I never saw where the recent posts proved fault with the aux air valve (which by the way this car does not have, only the turbos have them) The other problem these fuel systems encounter is a sticking shuttle in the IAC (Idle Air Control) (maybe this is what Caleb was thinking about?) This is mounted on the front of the throttle body has an electrical pigtail and can be removed for cleaning. Hope this helps

my check mark goes beside a drive shaft universal joint going south, I'd recco pulling the drive shaft and trying it but the yoke is the rear seal for the tranny.

No one has addressed the fuel management system he will use. The stock XT6 ECU will not work very well as it has no fuel enrichment map as the EA82T does. When on boost it will still try to maintain stoich and this could lead to detonation very easily. (esp w/ factory pistons) Now if the XT6 ECU uses a batch FI system like the EA82T does he may be able to add an injector to each bank and use the EA82T ECU. Or else he will have to MegaSquirt or use some other fuel control system. Just a thought.

the fuel cut defender mentioned will.....sorry, this message left blank due to banana man intervention BTW we have MAF's not MAP's in our cars. They are a wee bit different arf arf

Matt, first off, welcome to THE vintage Subaru board. Andrew is correct about the FI coolant sensor. It is pretty hard to find and is prone to corroding it's connection. IT IS NOT mounted on the goose neck (upper rad hose fitting on the engine), that sensor is for the dash gauge. This sensor is to the pass. side and behind the intake manifold. It sits in a vertical position, here is a bare manifold shot of it's location. Clean the contacts, if you do not know how to get the connector off - practice on the one on the top of the goose neck, it is for the AAV but is the same type connector. As for your four wheel drive issue, very unlikely for the problem to be the tranfer case. The 4wd is brought into play by the switch on the shift lever (the "James Bond" button) controlling a set of vacuum solenoids/control diaphragms. I would get a FSM (Factory Service Manual) print out of the electrical and vacuum circuit and trouble shoot from it. Hope this helps. I have several 87 4wd turbo wagons, please email me direct if you want. My email is in my profile.

sorry this vintage Soob will not clear error codes when you disconnect the battery. All this does is reset the "learn mode" Please read the instructions for clearing codes. http://www.westol.com/neper/ecucodes.html or http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

I will attempt to address these issues if I may 1) The by pass tube is also wrapped concurrently with the main pipe, I'm sorry I do not think there will be that great of temp diff, they almost touch. Maybe if they were not wrapped you would have a point. 2) The X-over pipe is very restrictive right at the exhaust ports ONLY, I can not see how this would speed the flow into the turbo, as it changes to a larger diameter several inches into the pipe. To me this would restrict the exhaust pulse coming out of the head and then cause a slowing of the pulse when it hits the larger pipe. The reverse entrance of the passenger side pipe into the crossed over pipe is also a confusing design. I was under the understanding the entrance to the turbo turbine is where the gas acceleration takes place. Please note I said port matching. The size will be the size of the exhaust port. Question Russ, have you ever seen a crossover pipe off of a car? 3) Mandrel bends, this machine does have a "die" on the inside of the pipe when bending. Although some crimping near the turn occurs, the man owning the machine claims it is a mandrel bender? The tight radius may have had something to do with it but as you allude, a true mandrel bend has no crimps.

Brian, the pict was from Cameron's site for retrofitting the 32/36 We sure could use a documented proceedure for both EA81's and EA82's

Craig, You are correct the EA81's I have had have cable operated control sysytems. Due to the nature of the problem I guessed it was on an EA82

Lets all play the "What kind of car is this game??" It's your 1965 Chevy Malibu -- right?? ah sheesh The vacuum operated heater control system works in conjunction with a vacuum resivour (sp?) which is the white canister on the shelf behind the pass strut tower. This canister also incorporates a check valve to prevent what you have happening from happening. Craig is correct as usual, it is a direct intake manifold vacuum to the input side of this canister. Jim, fine job of post stepping your doing there, replace your blower speed resistor, see Asavage's post on the subject.

Rich, you have been around long enough to know that you should post what car, year, engine, fuel system you are working on. Subuluvr gave you great advise IF you are working on an EA82 with MPFI or SPFI If you are working on an EA81, none of it applies. I am going to suppress the drunken crackhead remarks.

BT some very cheap and simple (maybe) solutions to your problems 1) Change the oil to Castrol 20/w 50 GTX 2) Change the tranny oil to Redline 75/90 NS Redline does wonders for "balky" shifters -first gear esp. Castrol is the best I've found for our engines, 20w/50 works great, a splash (read 6 oz. or so) of Marvels Mystery Oil is also a help. If it is still low enough to bother you, I would get a new sender unit. (easy to reach right beside the oil filter) I have had several that the gauge was fine and the sender went a little south. They also can begin to leak at your mileage. They go for about 20 bucks on line. Just make sure you get a sender unit not a switch (for idiot lighted cars) unit Hope this helps

Sorry Ratty, I inadvertantly deleted you orig. The mount on the carb is the one from the Hitachi, just remove it and with a small washer spacer put it on the DGAV For the throttle cable holder, see Camerons artical, it is just a flat piece of steel or AL with some holes in it. Looks like this Here is the link to his excellent artical http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/retrofitting_the_weber_dgav_32.htm Don't for get to find T's for the H20 lines, as you say you have the DGAV (Agua Valve) model, I like using the DGEV (Electric Valve) no messing with coolant lines. Hope this helps and again sorry for the deletion

RedLance, the bending machine is a mandrel bender, thus having "shoe saddles" on both sides of the pipe when the bend is being made. I have looked at the bottle jack version and wonder what the outer portion will look like with only two pins holding the pipe. Please let us know how it works out. I have wanted to get one of those for another project I'm working on. Caboo, I will send you what I can but the pictures tell the story. Andy, the pictures of the cross over pipes you show indicate that they are very serious about keeping the runners from both heads the same length, I doubt that will happen on the model I am making. Mine will match the port sizes and put mandrel bends in the shape. There is not a lot of room to play with. Hope this helps

Tom, my 87 turbo just went through a very similar problem. When the bog ocures look in the rear view for signs of black smoke. All my problems were very like yours. Problem - the connection to the intake throttle body is loose. This is the rubber connector pipe under the intake plenum (Al part that has "Subaru 4wd TURBO" cast into it.) May look tight but try to lift it up by hand. What was happening was when the boost pressure got high enough the part was separating and allowing the boosted air to leak out . Same fuel squirt, less air => rich mix Hope this helps BTW no error codes will be displayed for this problem.

Trog, the prototype was a bit of both, both the bender and I worked on the setup. We made two, one being used for a template for others. We will no doubt weld up a jig from it depending on interest. The final product is 2.5 " O.D. wrapped in header wrap and comes with bracket for the tranny lower mount and a DOJ heat shield. I have pictures of it mounted and wrapped. Remember the cat burns unburned hydro carbons and thus becomes very hot, no cat means much less heat in this area to melt the DOJ I used the same pipe with only a Hi Flow 3 way cat from Jeggs, yes it sounds rodded not riced. BTW I am also working on a crossover pipe, I have Witte's jig and a spare factory X over pipe. if you prefer you can email me direct for details neper@westol.com