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Mick, if you are going to use the big ignition wire coming out of the pink main connector under the st. col here is a one relay setup for you

my 87 turbo wagon should breath easier with this?

Mick, when I brought up the use of the oil pres. switch and relay. I posted a wiring diagram for it with the help of Craig and Noah. In the post, OHNoah of CIS conversion fame, showed us a Bosch control unit he uses. When fed pulses from the negitive terminal of the coil (yellow wire) it closed a set of relay contacts inside the unit. The unit is about the size of a normal ice cube relay. Was only 30 skins new, but could be pulled out of almost any German car at a bone yard. This just seemed like a much more elegant solution to me. I should have saved the part number but sorry. Maybe you could email him for details.

Tex, I to have C.Bell's book, good reading that BTW I was questioning where Sundance got his info, not you. I don't think Corky stoops to the level of the bleeder waste gate control. I should add that the bleed hose should have a small filter on it as it will suck air when the Imanifold is under vacuum

sorry Tex, don't think he hears you. Sure looks like he has the wording mxed up maybe he means max torque RPM? But that is where you want to hit the next higher gear ?? Wonder where he read this "fact"? BTW if he turns the boost pressure controler down (i.e lower max boost pressure), don't ya think he will hit max boost (ie. wastegating) sooner, ? The bleeder I sugg'd will leave pressure to the waste gate "vent" thus delaying the opening of the WG. This is also known as a "poor man's" boost control.

Daniel, here is a very good site by Cameron on the fitting od the 32/36 Very good reading IMHO http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/retrofitting_the_weber_dgav_32.htm

Moshe, the EGR valve (which is controlled by the solenoid you speak of) can cause stalling if it is leaking at idle. It could also cause some stumbling on accel if it is stuck wide open The Exhaust Gas Recirculation should only occur at cruise speeds after the engine is up to normal op temps. I simple test can be performed to prove if this is the culprit With the engine warm, manually push the valve open, the idle should immediately change to a lower RPM and get a bit ruff. If no change is experienced the valve is leaking and must be removed and cleaned (a normal 60000 mile maintenance item) Note: the solenoid controls a vacuum signal to open the valve. If the solenoid is electricly "open" the EGR will not operate.

Yes, you will need the flywheel and clutch set up yes you will need the SPFI distributor You will also need to tell the ECU that it is now a manual vs automatic tranny. This is done with a jumper on the pin in connector. Since you have some time, my suggestion is to start shopping Ebay or where ever for a FSM (Factory Service Manual) It will answer many questions that you may have concerning this endeavor. Best of luck

Setright beat me to it, well done Plus how can you create pressure with wide open ports in the cam cases, and in the crankcase? If you are saying the blow by is so high as to cause this, you need new rings not a vacuum pump. I will say this, if you restrict the crankcase pressure vent system on a turbo-the cam seals will blow out of their glands. To add, there have been posts saying aftermarket PCV valve are not good for turbos, stay with gen U wine Subaru for these.

Let me start with "I considered using a oil cooler between the turbo and the engine to cool the hotter oil coming from the turbo " The oil being discharged by the turbo is a gravity feed "drop or drip" into the oil pan, some form of aux hitemp pump would be needed. In this case cavitation of the pump is a possibility, but the pump could be a centripetal low pressure pump - perfect for the likes of the trans cooler in the rad. "thought about doing the same with the water coming from the turbo." Here the coolant can be superheated and caution must be exercised in it's transport anywhere. (thus the special factory hose or the wide spread use of silicone replacements) "If your cooling system is working properly, would you need additional cooling? " What is working fine today may not be this way forever. "If your goal is to change the temp of the water or oil to test performance" As stated previously these adiabatic system will increase in efficiency (and possibly perf.) any time the temp is lowered as long as the ECU still goes into closed loop and condensates are driven off by the heat of vaporization. "If your goal is to reduce the engine temps, then whether the heat is extracted from the oil or water wouldn't make that much diff would it?" A good point, I say more cooling for both given the limits prescribed in the above statement. thinking is good

Black smoke - rich air fuel mixture Sure sounds like the float wants adjusting/replacing (don't know if you have a foam float but they can absorb gas and begin to sink causing a rich mixture at low flow rates) This is not a hard repair and IMHO is worth a shot before spending big bucks. BTW the mixture adjustment is sealed on your carb and if you remove the lock, it will ONLY adjust the mixture at idle.

is the 3AT governor fix goin to be tranfered to the new USRM?

great idea on the coolant to oil cooler, one thermostat controls all!! Again might be the hot oil from the quickly warming turbo bearings but I was amazed at how fast the oil came up to temp. Much faster than the coolant even with a coolant tstat in place. With this type heat exchanger it's a definite win win. I just wish I could trust that the automatic tranny cooler section of my rad (not used as it's a 5 speed) would handle the 60 +psi oil pressure?? whoop!! there it is, a built in coolant to oil cooler!!! I could make a low pressure aux pump driven loop from the oil pan and back I guess??? After a pressure drop test suggested by Al, I'm going to plumb the condenser coils into my heater core return line, (they practically cross paths) the extra coolant in the system may or may not help and if it will not flow only my frozen piggies will be the harm. _________________ Ya know though "Some men gotta hunt" "Some men gotta fish" --- well I gotta putz Thanks again for the replies

Al. most excellent wish you well with the un click and clack I take it you read my diatribe in the USRM on the 3AT govenor shuttle debur and clean? If you have any other questions please feel to post a thread on it or email me directly.

Sundance, your question is a bit nebulous - sorry. We all hit max boost and "waste gate" when running hard though the gears. (The system is designed this way) If you want (for some strange reson) to slow down the turbo "spooling" to max boost. "T" a bleeder hose into the line in place of your controller to the waste gate, trim and adjust the "bleeder" line so some of the pressure which would cause the waste gate to open is bled off. You may want to consider a by pass valve instead.

Snow, sounds like you have a good handle on this, hope you give it 'ell As for your fuel line question, we are only at about 35 psi **but you are correct the fuel lines should be changed from the pump to the injector atleat (note: somebody has mounted the SPFI pump inline under the hood and let the carb pump feed it (think it is Noah with his CIS conversion) The more effiecant SPFI will use less gas than the carb so fuel delivery volumes should not be an issue) The return line is a minmal pressure line so it should be fine. ** I say this because normal "fuel line" is rated to about 40 psi and costs pennies per foot. fuel injection line rated for 100 psi is dollars per foot (at NAPA any how, just tried to buy some, put normal fuel line on my turbo wagon and it shows no signs of swelling or problems) You did ask some questions -ECU-where is it located? -engine control wiring harness -fuel pump and its wiring -Y pipe w/oxygen sensor The ECU is under the steering col. The main harness goes in the driverside of the bulkhead. Fuel pump - covered Y pipe and 02 sensor. the 02 sensor is essential but a bung for it could be welded into your existing "Y" if ness. Good luck, I have complemplated this swap (minus the lump) into one of my Brats

first and foremost change the oil to 20w/50 Casrtol GTX The thiscker oil will get your oil pressure back up. 8 oz of the magic MMO (Mavel Mystry Oil) May help to. The oil pump may be wanting changed, it is a realitivly simple job on this engine. Easier than swapping the entire lump. A low milage used one could probably be had, atleast a reseal of the pump is worth a shot. BTW your engine designation is EA81 And this problem is NOT common, unless it is a hydraulic lifter model (auto tranny) and we are mistaking lifter clack for rod/main knock. A swap to a turbo engine/wiring/plumbing is quite an undertaking for a novice, but you sound like you have some grease under them finger nails. Welcome to our Suby world Hope this helps

you also need the reciever/dryer, but since you are going to R134a a new one of these is a very good idea.

Al Your knowledge and experience in the automotive field are very welcome and appreciated here. This post is in reference to your comment "On the oil: Gack! No, I'm not running 20W50. I'm a bit of an oil snob." This must have been said as you feel the 20w/50 is too thick for our engines. Again it is summer here. The normal "fix mix" includes 8 oz. of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) This "Gack" may be from experience with "normal" in line engines. Study the architecture of our horizontally opposed "boxer" engines and you will see the "head" or height to pump is far lower, thus time to lubricate certain items like cam shafts is reduced significantly. This coupled with the use of a good oil filter with a anti drain back valve allows our engine to operate very well with this weight oil in the summer months. Many cases of valve clatter have been solved by switching to this oil. The reason is no doubt because the pressure in the lifter gallery is maintained at a point where the lifters stay pumped up. BTW I was one of the originators of the lifter gallery relief valve problem. I bought new springs and compared their rate with my 100 kmi old ones. As you surmised the reduction in spring rate was negligible, I feel varnish on the seat and valve are cleaned by the MMO and help correct the problem. I say all this from years of experience with these engines, sorry if it goes against your knowledge, I do not mean to offend Welcome aboard, very good to have you take time to post.

When appling the teflon tape do not allow it to cover the opening. Wind it clockwise and only on the threads. If you apply it properly there is no chance of it getting into the oil passages. I feel it seals better with less torque than pipe dope. Maybe you had it confused with silicone sealant? When it is used on surfaces such as cam/valve covers or oil pans, a very thin layer must be used.

Thanks for the relpies Savage, very well said, but I have some issues with your reply, please this is a debate not an argument. a) May cars have aluminum rads, are the condenser coils a different alloy? The coolant manuf. says "Safe for Aluminum radiators" Flow rates. I was planing on semi-parallel. I am going to plumb it in series with the heater core return hose, grant it the delta T will not be as high because of the heater core dropping some of the heat. BTW Our EA82 cores are not valved and the heater core does not exchange much heat when the blend door is bypassing the air flow. I do not know what you mean by fines? Fine particulate matter? You must be saying the heater core's cooling tubes diameters are large engough to not let this happen. Oil's viscosity is higher than coolant even when warm, it's surface adhesion is close to coolant, yet it will flow where coolant will not?? You must be taking into account the oil system pressure. The adapter mentioned, runs the oil in a parallel system once it's Tstat is open. Are you aware of this? This is a very good point I will test this theory if you do not mind. Yes I am aware of the oil needing to be in the 220 deg F range for reasons you state, thus the thermostat in the oil cooler line. Hope everybody reads this. As you can see from my empirical results the delta T between air and the oil is not that much larger than the coolant. Am I correct stating that the heat exchange rate is function of delta T linearly, not exponentially? c) On the running with no thermostat, here is where it gets messy. I should have stated this is for the summer month usage, sorry. That said. I am sorry to report, my findings disagree with your knowledge. During the summer months where the ambient temperature is above 65 deg, it takes less than 3 minutes for the oil and coolant temp to get to the vaporization point of combustion by products and H20. I used a stop watch to measure this. Before removing the Tstat the time was 2 min 15 sec. Sorry, maybe this being a turbo charged car (although the turbo is not making much pressure during my low speed warm up) has something to do with the quick warm up time. I must admit before I saw this I believed what you said. There are a lot of wive's tales floating about. That is why I ran the experiment. Time to temp. was part of the experiment. I am NOT condoning this as in the cooler months it would be as you describe. But we do not suffer cooling problems in those months. d) On the Tstat temp, yes the OEM is 190 deg F, but at 180, the engine still gets to a vaporizing state, the ECU goes into closed loop at 140 deg and everything remains cooler, thus the tolerances are tighter and the oil stays above 220 but below 300 by a larger amount, sorry to have to disagree with you again. I say again. This again is for warmer months The delta T in the heater core causes poor heat transfer in the dead of winter at 180, a 190 must be used. I believe the actual temp of the OEM is 193, the almost 15 deg makes quite a difference. This again I have proved but not with empirical figures. Speaking empirically I have no empirical figures for the performance gain with a 180 vs 190, I have only read where gains are possible, but the margin of increase to a pressure threatening 230 coolant temp would have me using a 180 in the summer and a 190 in the winter. Head cracks and gasket failures in our cars are real. Keeping the coolant passage pressures down is a worthy goal. In theory, the adiabatic nature of the infernal internal combustion engine must suffer when it's temp is higher, as the ol' delta T is higher and more energy is lost to the surrounding air, thus lowering it's efficiency - do you agree? . I for one must say I appreciate your knowledgeable reply and look forward to your rebut.

1000 lb el. golf cart on a 300 lb trailer. Keep the tongue weight right and Snow Worries bumper frame mounts and cross frame mount attachment points

have you used a voltmeter to check for battery voltage on the positive terminal of the coil? There is a fuse on the fuse panel controling the positive voltage to the coil. Might check that IF you are not getting the battery voltage on the + coil terminal (I mentioned this is a previous no spark post but it was kind of after the fact) BTW The power transistor (amplifier) on the coil bracket is NOT an ignitor (They are found in some distributors and feed info INTO the spark control circuitry, the ignition amplifier - amplifies the signal AFTER the circuitry -whatever.

My AC is toast so off goes the heavy compressor, but the condenser coils in front of the rad are still intact. We know they are good for high pressure and sit in the main air stream. My thoughts and theory I have been running no thermostat all summer in an attempt to see if this will cause overheating (I have laboratory digital thermometers (J type thermocouples) in both the water jacket and the oil pan) The results show a cooler by some 10 degrees average H20 temp and more importantly a 20 deg drop in oil temp H20 before 195 - 205 Oil before 285 - 300 H20 after 185 - 195 Oil after 265 - 285 All degrees given in Fahrenheit SO my question to our esteemed panel is Do I plumb the AC condenser coils to run coolant, or do I plumb them with a thermostat to run oil? (I planing on using an oil filter adapter commonly available with thermostat) I am siding on running H20 as it seems to be the controlling entity in keeping the oil temps down. They live in the same environment so it stands to reason they would share entropy. The added volume of coolant or oil would not be enough to be a major factor in the Newtonian cooling equation. The hot oil in the condenser coils infront of the rad may prove detrimental though. Thanks for reading, any thoughts welcome.

I just put on my custom designed catless downpipe. 2.5" OD w/ 1.5" wastegate bypass tube (enters approx 18" from flange) Wraped it with header wrap and put a Jegs three-way hiflow cat after the DP. Continued to the rear bumper with 2.5" Some improvement in perf. but sounds very rodded, not riced. Replaced factory intake pipe (coragated rubber hose from MAF to turbo) with a smooth curve section of 3" pipe and silicone couplings. Large K&N cone mounted in inner fender (no engine heat). Cockpit adjustable timing run at approx 25 BTDC at idle. 14 psi boost after the IC, H20 injection and hi boost activated aux fuel injection. Still will not beat my factory 90 'Teg. 5 speed Subatoad ____________ If you don't know where you are going You can't get lost!