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Tom, your idea on the speedo cable sounds correct as is your thought on getting to it to correct it. If you pul the ECU down you can reach the head fitting As for your AC problem, if the dash ventilation system is switching properly the switch probably isn't the problem but here is how it works When the AC button (or defrost) is pushed, a lever in the vetilation system moves and closes a microswitch. If you would like to operate this switch manualy (I do it allows AC in any position and no AC when I don't want it -like in defrost) Look above the gas pedal and toward the center of the car. You should see a black sheathed set of two blue wires. They go into a small box. Inside this box is the microswitch I mentioned. Follow the sheathed wires toward the rear. At the console they meet a connector to the main harness. Unplug the connector and plug the wires from your toggle switch into the body harness side of the connector- simple as that. I mounted a small lighted blue rocker switch in the blank beside the fan control knob. Hope this helps

Joe glad to see you are learning the nomenclature You say "Any other suggestions????" Well since you don't like what we have said thus far (kinda looks like an bad Double Offset Joint) but you asked so 1) out of balance tire 2) bad tie rods 3) bad ball joints 4) out of round tire 5) bent rim 6) broken belts in a tire 7) bad motor mounts 8) bad tranny mounts 9) bad roads 10) front struts or top bearings -- well I could go on but that checking all that should keep you busy for an afternoon or so

Tony you say "but as soon as you start rolling it drops to about 10 amps.. " I think you may mean "volts" Take the fusible link that is nearest the strut tower out and clean it's connections. This link feeds the alt output into the cars electrical system Hope this helps

Mattman, the 4wd and the ventilation systmes are both controlled by vacuum. These systems share a vacuum reservoir located behind the passenger side strut tower. It is a white plastic can shaped object. Find out why it has lost it's vacuum source. Line off or broken. This will solve those calamtiies as for the electrical problems hope your seat belt fix did that.

Godspeed, Smitty. Sure was nice meeting ya. Have a safe trip and here's to miles of smiles in your "Powder Patrol" Good luck with your "big island" project and keep the foil side up.

Just testing the waters as I did with the alternator repair article. This article will be for the Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual if any interest is shown. I ask you to please give any pertinent comments or suggestions. Here is the beginning of the article. This treatise is referring to the single range push button four-wheel drive system only. Equipment required: Multimeter Vacuum gauge Overview: This system incorporates a single vacuum controlled diaphragm to engage the rear drive of the transaxle. This diaphragm is a push pull type where the vacuum is applied to one side or the other to instigate the push or the pull on the lever that shifts the rear drive in and out of service. The control of this diaphragm is the job of two solenoids, which in turn are controlled by the four-wheel drive push button. Operation; The four-wheel drive push button is a single pole double throw switch. This means even in the 4 wheel drive “Off” position the switch still makes contact to one of it’s terminals................

A DOJ going south will cause this, are the boots intact?

J, I'm sorry I think you miss the point here. The fuel cut is the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) or brain's way of protecting the engine. The MAF is just sending it information and as I said, well read what you quoted

Sorry Jmoney, I do not know the difference between a MAF and a MAFS Mass Air Flow sensor and Mass Air flow Sensor?? As I said the MAF or MAFS are different, one being a Hot wire the other being a vane or flapper door type, the output signals and control voltages are vastly different. There is a guy in Brazil working on a swap, if you want to try, I'll forward his email to you.

The 86 uses many different parts, the main ones being the MAF and the distributer The wiring harness is different and many sensors would need swapped. There is hope of an electronic signal clamp for the hot wire fuel cut in the works

Subaru does have a concept hybrid (gas electric) in a 2 seater non the less What cha think?

this was covered in a recent post http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=6489 and you may want to read this on error codes, your connectors are by the driver's side hood hinge http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

here is what I did, cut factory head pipes short of the "Y" more low end and more top end have a Weber 32/36 feeding it offered to make complete (minus "Y" pipe) systems for 200 green backs, no one was interested so I quenched the project sorry Am working on turbo down pipes now

yes Tony the ECU stores the code so you can retreive it later. This may give you a clue as to where the problem lies, as would an air fuel ratio meter. Russ's idea of a "Tee'd " fuel pressure gauge is good but .....careful running a pressurized fuel line into the car. I use an electronic oil pressure gauge for my fuel pressure. The sender is gas and oil resistant (has to be as gas is some times present in the oil) Russ, you have the same car? An 87 with a vane style MAF?, they must be very early 87s (again going by your signature)

why don't you retreive the error code and find out what the ECU is disturbed about? Check to be sure the MAF el. connector is tight. If it is loose it will trigger the CEL Might help to know what type turbo fuel system you are running. ie Hot wire or vane style MAF, I'll guess it the one in your signature.

Pearl, the first problem sounds like a faulty FI coolent thermosensor. It's mounted in the upper rad hose fitting and has two wires permantly attached. First check to see the connection is tight and clean. (do not confuse it with the spade terminal sensor also mounted here, as it is for the dash gauge) The code is for your air control valve which also could cause the idle problem. This is mounted on the front of the throttle body and has a electrical cable to it, same thing for it's connections. The ACV is also known to get gummed up and stick, taking it off and cleaning the shuttle with carb cleaner will correct the idle problem if the thermosenor is functioning. Be aware this sticking will not light the CEL, corroded connections will. Hope this helps

J, The "chugging"? Is it constant above 3 grand or a on/off type of feel? Where is the air fuel meter sitting when this happens? Have you tried resetting the boost to below 8 and trying it ? If it is going lean when it chugs I'd suspect a partially plugged fuel filter. Possibly dirty injectors. Good plugs and wires are an obvious I hope, have you had the s. plugs out lately?

$J Welcome to tbe best littl' old Gen Subaru board on the Inet Please describe your problem in a bit more detail. With the boost pressure set at 10 psi you will experience fuel cut if you hold it at this pressure for more than several seconds. As to answer you question on turbulent air and a confused MAF output signal, well I guess it could happen but I ran a blunt 90 degree intake adapter for thousands of miles with no problem. I have since moved my K&N into the inner fender (between the inner fender and plastic inner fender liner) area and have a straight shot. This pulls much cooler air with no restrictions in the plumbing. Once again welcome to USMB

fld, I have the wiring diagram for this, no indicator light on the dash - sure looks like the switch itself is at fault. I can give you the wires to test this under the steering col. email me if you want. Be very careful with Cole's advise as Subarus use a different wiring system (they ground the filament, not the common terminal, as American cars do)

Rico, I can ask my bro-in law if he knows about it. Maybe he can get a copy of the TSB and or find out what models it applies to. Nick you should see some of the NE saltbelt junkers we on the old gen board drive, yep I'll say YIKES ever heard of "death rattles" - my old 87 had them - you go over RR tracks and the doors hitting the jambs give you the DR's

Moosens, sorry mate, I think you missed the point, he can't drive in 2wd as that would mean taking his broken drive shaft out, this in turn would allow the tranny fluid to drain out the rear of the tranny (the spline shaft is part of the rear seal setup). Mike - since the old shaft is toast and Paul has generously offered a repl. Cut the splined end off and hold it in/on with bailing wire. When in front wheel drive it does not turn. It just needs held in the opening. I'd like to see this monster. Hope this helps

Steve-0 good thinkin, the disc may work (the hub of the disc may be different, maybe) But the pressure plate, pilot and release bearing would not. Bet Sachs offer's a unit for our Roo's, and that is a good price for the complete set up. I'd like to see their XT 6 setup - that is the ONE for our turbos

EA82 cars do not have flow control valves for the heater core only EA81's, the use a "blending door" It basicly defects the air through the core or not through the core. i.e. no need to slide the heat control to max Make sure the small white canister on the shelf behind the pass, side strut tower has a good vacuum line to it. The heat control system operate from this vacuum

Trog, way kewl idea. I don't need anything specific (have to wait an see what "Gramps" problems are, if any) But I'll shuffle along to help rip n/ snort Mt Subaru rox

Yes, I have tried Dino's fix. It is a zehner diode strapped across the signal wire to the ECU from the MAF. I connected my dash mounted 0-scope to watch the signal and the injector pulse width. I had watched these parameters before. With the zehner in place both the signal in and the injector output were strange. I disconnected it fearing it may do permanant damage. Possibly the reverse impedance was not high enough? The theory here is you want to leave the signal alone until it reaches the critical voltage, then clamp it at that level. I have parts on order with Jameco to try a more sophisticated FCD.This one uses op-amps to form an active voltage clamp. Will report and may offer it as a solution once I am comfortable with it's use. Feel free to do a search for voltage clamping circuits. I'm pulling fer ya cause we are all in this together. (RG)