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all light show = alt output is nill sure sounds like alternater brushes are about toast. They can exhibit a come and go nature that you describe or since you have the external voltage regulator it may be going south. This could also be caused by a corroded connection in the fusible link network though. Check the connections on the link closest to the strut tower this link feed alt "juice" to the battery and to the car's circuits. As always this post in not covered by any warranty and batteries are not included

All good information and links and pictures BUT the URGENT Snowman says, and I quote "The heater blower only works in position #3 " This problem -- if by number #3 he means one click below high speed i.e. #4 --- can not be only the resistor block. The switch by passes the resistor block when in position #4 or high speed. If it is not blowing in pos.#4 then the switch is at fault and he must grab it also. If the URGENT Snowman means only in high speed then I am off base and should be tagged out.

Blaster (as in PB?) the dash control is vacuum operated. behind the pass side strut tower is a white cannister. This is the vacuum reserivour, check to make sure you connected the vacuum source to it, small dia. rubber line to the intake manifold. Hope this helps

Tex, one thing about the tranny that has not been mentioned and is rather unique - it's basicly a 10 speed! The hi/low range can be shifted up or down at speed, it not a true LOW range, more like half a gear. and you ask about mods well with a boost control valve and some other "tweaks" they can be made to keep up with traffic. my EA82T

John, tried to email you but it bounced, if you want to try again try again using normal email neper at westol.com

Sir Garner, the only manual aside from a Bently that is worth paying money for is the FSM. Fishing in the bay of E is the best way to procure one

Sir J, my diagram does show a relay. It's power is fed by fuses 17 and 18 in parallel The relay coil and the dash indicator are powered by fuse 12. You do not say what fuel system your car has Why would that matter?? A Carb car in 87 with 4wd has no ECU Others fuel systems do The relay mounting may be different as they are above the ECU on fuel injected cars. The relays will be mounted in clusters somewhere up above the st. col. The one you are looking for has these colored wires blue/white red/yellow white/green blue/red Relays may be interchanged to prove one is toast here is what you are looking for Sure hope this helps, would not want you fogged in. I can scan the diagram for you if need be, email me

the dash lights are incorporated into the parking lights. This is done to warn you if the dash lights are out so are your parking lights (rear of vehicle is not visable at night - could be a good thing? no lic. plate light) First make sure you have not bumped the dash illumination reostat (small wheel on dash to the left of the st. wheel) then check fuse #4. Hope this helps

SK, You need to do a little homework, sorry to say. With the engine stone cold. Step on the gas pedal one time (half to three quaters of the way should suffice). This "sets the auto choke" Then take of the air cleaner top plate off (three wing nuts). The choke plate (top "flapper in the carb throat) must be totally closed. If it isn't, well out comes the ten (10) mm wrench. Pull the two bolts holding the aircleaner housing down. Gently lift it and spray a good lubricant ( not prefumed alcohol aka WD40) LPS #3 is good Triflo is best, all over the passenger side of the carb and it's linkage. Lower the assm. and try setting the choke again. You give no year so I will have to assume it has the rivoted autochoke assm. I.E. No adjustment, if it is internally knackered, go with a manual conversion or buy a repl. Hope this helps and yes Subys start in the cold very well when correctly set up. If the choke is setting it is possible your carb is "bleeding down"do your homework and if it's bleeding down the start proceedure is a bit different

as Caleb says, check all bat cables for signs of the greenies clean as required. Frag has a nice tip too, it should be checked but Another common place for voltage dropping corrosion is the main fusible link. (These are in the little black box on the overflow bottle, The "link" is a wire shaped like an upside down "U"with a spade connector on each end ) The one closest to the strut tower (rear most) is the alternater output to the battery and car circuits. The male to female spade connections like to corrode and drop voltage. If they do, the connection then gets hot (current through any resistance creates heat) This heat can take the "springyness" out of the female spade and cause even more problems. Look for the greenies though, they could be out to get you. Hope this helps

Don't know who really to credit this to but I Just call it SCUBAru

sorry Arche, take a look at any turbo XT made after mid 87 or you could ask, Scrapdaddy Tatum, or Trogdor. Trog lead us to it and we yanked the lump that had one on it. Yes they are the same physically except for the hose to the MAF which is not part of it actually The TPS may also be different, and the wiring may not match exactly connector for connector. Hope this helps

Jay, there are several reasons the spider is better The flow dynamics of the long smooth runners and the common plenum being just one. Another for us high boost turbo owners is the location of the throttle body, very easy to attach an IC there and avoid the noid of the ninty degree turn into the normal plenum throttle body. As for is it better? well Subaru is not known for going backward very often and the ER and newer EJ engines all use this design. I would also like to see some empirical results. Butt dynos are okay but G-TECH numbers are muttsnutz.

Well you did ask about Webers. The EA82 SPFI manifold is a good starting place for better flow dynamics. Mike W turned me on to this. Adapter made from a 1"thick piece of plexiglass. Had to be beveled to make the carb sit level. That is a four barrel Weber jetted very lean. This one never got running right either, it is on a hacked and whacked Hicrappy manifold. connected with rubber rad hoses Weber DCOE 42 here is the "real deal" Weber DGEV 32/36 read my signature

JD welcome to the board FYI The FT (full time) 4wd trannies you speak of are the 4EAT model the 3 speed are called 3AT. The govenor fix on 3ATs is pretty well documented, called by some "morning sickness" as in the begining stages it happens when the tranny is cold. Not quite as simple to get out on a turbo model. The FT 4wd system is operated by a duty solenoid feeding the hyd pressure to the clutch pack. The trick used by some is to circumvent the duty solenoid signal sent by the tranny brain (TCU) with a constant 12v signal via a dash switch. This then emulates the "diff lock" switch in the manual FT trannies. Thanks for the tips and keep up the good work.

Maybe GB has heard about the power steering in an XT6 This unit MUST use the Subaru special PS fluid. As Xgod says, normal PS fluid in the other Roos will be fine.

sorry Fox there are two different types of switches, the one for the gauge is a oil pressure sender unit it has a variable resistor in it and looks like this the other unit for the light is just an oil pressure switch. There are two ports on the oil pump - one for each type, you can have you cake and wolf it down also The thread size is in question, i think it may be Whitworth.

Goat the defrost position turns on the AC so the air out the dash vents is dehumidified. If you have your AC compressor disconnected or for some reason it does not function then the high idle is not needed. Just disconnect it.

Josh I bet they said fuel (injection) temp sensor. J Outback, do as Josh says to make sure. Sorry I can't help but somebody here can I bet

Thanks to Do It Sidewayz for a link to the sight Here is a handy way of telling what fits what for all the tranny swap and clutch up grade people T# is the number of teeth on the tranny input shaft If you want to bookmark (add to favorites) this URL http://www.westol.com/neper/clutchsizes.JPG

I don't think he is asking about heads but if so here is the chart Monkster refers to Here is the URL if you want to book mark it http://www.westol.com/neper/EAhead.jpg

Red, the signal from the knock sensor is AC but a very complexe wave form, the KCU (Knock Control Unit) has filters for letting the proper signal pass into the sensing circuit. You are correct the two wires (red and green) and a shield are for the proper sensor. The green wire is called negative by the FSM so it may be an earth ground? You could check with a DMM for continuity to ground on the green wire. If it shows resistance, I would get the proper KCS. I assume you have the rare bird 85 or the 86 model with a Flapper door MAF. Hope this helps some, but again you are correct as I ain't gotta clue, my expierence is with hot wire MAF'd cars, still on a steep learning curve with flapper doors.

Mitch, you are correct about the small between the valves crack - normal and does not cause worry (unless a valve seat is in jepordy) Where you want to look for the real problem is inside the exhaust port on the head, you will see a buldge, this is where the H20 jacket gets closest to the port. Look for a small steam cleaned line, this is the crack. The other place coolant can get into the comb chamb is via the intake manifold gaskets, how did they look?

Thanks TB, you are correct on the cam case 0-ring I was thinking about the 0-ring needed when using Copper head gaskets - thanks for the correction.

Piotr, first off let me also welcome you to THE Subaru old gen board. To answer you latest question: Sorry both types of block will have EA82 - only The easiest way to tell a turbo short block is to check for the fitting WJM tells you he did not use. This fitting, a small pipe, is located on the back of the block almost dead center, it connects to the plastic "tree" of large rubber hoses behind the intake plenum (Aluminum piece over the throttle body with "Subaru Turbo" cast into it.) I can post a picture if you have troulbe locating this fitting. Also be aware the bearing in a NA engine are thinner than a turbo - the increased compression ratio will put these to the test if you do not follow Will's advise on preventing detonation. Hope this helps