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Mike's right, Jetsprint racing is way kewl. The series is mainly run in OZ and NZ but there is a section of their series run in America. The "track" if you will, is carved out of land next to rivers. Two people (driver and "navigator") in 4.5 meter long boat, in the pro section they run with massive V8's and special jet drives. The EJ pictured is a bit tamer. Here is one link to them and some info about the racing in Washington state. http://www.jetsprintracing.com Espn and Speedvision cover the series.

SnotR is correct as usual, the springs and part of the hub will stand proud on one side of the clutch disc, this side goes toward the pressure plate (transmission) Couple other notes 1) make sure the throwout bearing slides easily on the tranny input shaft cover (I like graphite as it does not attract dirt) 2) make sure the splines on the input shaft are clean and that the disk slides easily (graphite again) 3) test fit the throw bearing hold on clips - be a bummer to break a cheap part like that 10kmi down the road. Very good price BTW, nice score. Hope this helps

tried another search for "duty solenoid" large time score There are some different opinions as to how DS C works. It does over all look like disconnecting the harness will indeed put the car in a 50/50 split (similar to the old style 4wd lever models Brats, hatches, GLs ect in 4wd Hi) The big difference comes in descibing what DS C does. My belief is the when DS C is signaled, (up to a 95% duty cycle) it opens a bleed for the hyd presure to the clutch pack, thus no signal = no bleed=full line pressure to the clutch pack =. full engagement of the rear drive

89 GL-10 wagon FT4EAT TCU trouble code 11, duty solenoid A (line pressure) is faulty Hard jolt when shifting also in evidence. I will first check the harness and the wiring for the 3 ohm resistance the DS coil should have then... This DS is located on the top of the valve body. Has anyone been brave enough to pull the valve body down? 19 bolts hold it up??? Looks like the accumulator springs (3) are all I have to keep track of----but ........ I'd like to hear real life expierence talk. Thanks for any help. A bath in ATF is always phun.

Criag, read Dennis's post, he was refering to tightening the crank bolt. My guess is he put the car in a forward gear, propped the breaker bar on the frame and pushed it backward. (manual tranny only trick) As for using the kamikasi trick on this one, if that 3/4" impact had full air pressure, I'd be afraid of stripping the ring gear trying it. If the 3/4" impact had full air pressure (125 psi) no extention and an impact socket - and it still didn't budge one word - ZOIX!

Thanks Josh, I tried a search before posting and came up lame. So what I read is correct. I would like to hear more on why/how the solenoid would be hurt. (Voltage / current spike when switching possibly?) Now the TCU may not like having an infinite resistance on it's output (there must be some protection built in as wires do break and connectors do go open). I like the relay option but with the addition of a resistor across the N/O contacts. I could measure the pure resistance of the coils and match that. Although I realize the signal sent ot the DS is AC at a freq of 50 Hz and it would realy want me to match the impedance not the pure resistance, atleast it would be looking at some resistance. I also like the light idea, wired across the coil of the relay. I plan to fit a gear shift from a push button 4wd (3AT) I have, and wire that button to operate the 50/50 split. It would be nice if I could keep this all inside the cockpit, that is why I would like to find the TCU. Under the pass. seat maybe? Thanks again for the reply

I have an 89 4EAT with full time 4wd I drive on completely snow covered roads at times. a) I would like to control the rear drive via modification to the signal sent to the duty solenoid for rear shaft drive (DS C). I have been reading in my FSM about the system and it appears the duty solenoid controls the drain for the hyd. clutch pack. If this is the case wouldn't simply opening the circuit to the duty solenoid cause the clutch pack to lock up? Has anyone experimented along these lines? c) another "trick" I was comtemplating was to modifiy the signal from the VSS on the rear drive, thus fooling the TCU into thinking the front wheels where spinning at a faster rate than the rears and thus locking the rear drive. d) I know this is an "Old Gen" wagon (1989 GL-10 turbo) but I would also like to know where the TCU is located. Thanks for any help in this endeavor

Ben, another place I have seen leak is the 0 ring under the bell crank wheel on the hill holder. Be a shame to replace a line and have it not be the leak. My parts manual shows all the brake pipe part numbers I will scan the page and send it to you if need be. Email me if this is the problem.

Yes Jimbo good call, should have warned you, some models you do have to drop the ECU (it's on U shaped open mounts so you can just loosen the three 12mm nuts) Some models they are visable, sorry. Hope it stays runnin'

Probably too late, but you could do your eyes a favor and check out Sylvania (OSRAM) Silverstars or better yet UltraVisions. Here is a link http://www.sylvaniaautocatalog.com/sylvania/highperforman.asp There is also a post active on brighter lights you may want to read

I'd like to help but my manual with your wiring is on loan. If you could post or email me a scan of the FSM headlamp wiring diagram. I could possibly work up a trouble shooting proceedure for you. The relays used on newer Roo's are for right and left, not high and low beams.

Some very good info has been posted, I would just like to add to this list a) Sylvania (OSRAM) has a lamp with a higher output than the very good Silverstar series, these are marketed as Halogen XtraVision Here is a link to their perf. lighting http://www.sylvaniaautocatalog.com/sylvania/highperforman.asp If you want to achieve the maximum light output from any aux. lamp that draws more amperage (read higher wattage) than a factory lamp, it is best to use a relays fed with larger AWG (gage) wire directly from the battery. Have these relays controlled by the headlight switching circuits. BTW Subaru headlamp systems are negative switched circuits, not positive switched like normal American cars. Please, if you have specific questions, email me. c) It has not been mentioned but any "quartz" lamp should not be touched by the bare hand. Grease deposits will cause a disproportionate heating of the envelope and can cause premature failure. If you do touch them, clean then with isopropyl(aka rubbing) alcohol before lighting. Hope some of this helps, I have been in the lighting industry for many moons

easy as http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8473 use the word weber or DGEV32/36

Mr. R. Man. I am sorry to have to correct you. I do not know your history with this vintage Subaru, but there must be some gaps. first you say Ignition amplifier? honestly I havent heard that term before. All Subarus with the crank angle sensor dist. (Optical) have an Ig Amp, it is mounted on the coil bracket under the coil. They are a power tranistor that amplifies the small signal that is being sent by the ECU to the coil to fire the spark plug. The brackett ground is a "leg" of the transistor and must be grounded. BTW The "ignitor" is a module in the dist that sends a signal TO the coil/ECU in some models - not this one. These two devises are on different ends of the spark generating system - one sending a signal to coil/ECU = (ignitor) and one amplifing the signal from ECU = (ig amp.) Second you say just go spend $25 at the junkyard for a distributor, from any old subaru from 1985 to 1990ish. I am sorry the crank angle distributor was introduced in 87 (possibly late 86) on the SPFI and MPFI models, carbed cars never had one. This statement is correct is make sure it has the same connector on it But to save time and hassle he should look for a SPFI model of the same year. Sorry to have to correct you like this but I am trying to save DM some time and money. My check mark goes beside the ig amp, with a bit more testing Try looking for spark when it is fairly dark and at the coil wire - a bad ig amp will still spark but very very weak. If you have 12 v at the coil positive with the key on. Then maybe shopping for a dist is in order. Hope this helps.

Ben, look closely at the MAF to turbo pipe. Cracks in the corrigations can be hard to spot. You may want to see if the MAF vane is moving freely. 02 sensors will not trip the CEL until they are toatly toast or disconnected but I don't think that is the problem. Your TPS is also a simple affair and rarely gives problems but it is an easy test (just contacts no varriable resistor) I have never had a turbo surge so I am guessing , the other possibility that comes to mind is the FPR not regulating the fuel pressure evenly, if the Fuel Pres. varried the engine may surge. Have to connect a gage for this test (I use an electric oil pressure gage, Tee'd in after the fuel filter, the diaphragm is made to withstand gas and oil and has not given me any problems) Hope this helps a little

TJ did you pull the hose on the drivers side? This is the return side, it goes to the H20 pump, sounds wierd I know but that is what the FSM says. The feed is at the upper rad hose connection. I am now wondering if there is enough flow through it, this due to obsturction somewhere (maybe the small elbow hose that connects to the H20 pump is kinked?? There is no factory valve on EA82 series cars, you are correct it is all done by the blend door. Tony may have something there. Replacing the heater core requies removing the dash BTW If the core was plugged you would have seen this when you backflushed it. I am ruling it out as being obstructed by that and your recent test Do you still need the pict. or are you convinced the blend door is in the proper position.

are both heater hoses hot?

TJ, are both heater core hoses hot? If so, it must be the blend door on the heat vent system. I see not mention of addressing this. The only help I can offer is a picture possibly of the position the blend door control arm is in when in the heat position. Sorry we got a bit dumped on and I could not get this pict if needed until tomorrow. Email me if you want me to do this.

Biff two things to check 1) the large dia fill hose got kinked somehow when installing the tank 2) or the smaller dia. top "tank vent" hose that connects to the steel portion of the fill hose system, it maybe kinked. This hose lets air out of the tank as gas goes in and allows it to "vent" through the steel connection portion. This will cause gas to back up and trip the nozzle. Hope this helps solve the riddle

Jimbo are you aware of the fact that the fuel pump only runs for about 2 seconds when you first turn the car to the "run" position? It is controled by a timer in the ECU, this short run period re-presurizes the fuel system. It also should run when the ig sw. is in the crank to start position and then once the car has fired. Now if you get niether of these "run periods" I would look to the FPR (fuel pump relay) or it's control circuit. Note: the FPR is in a closed (providing the positive side of the fuel pump operation) any time the ig switch is in the run position, the ECU then provides the negative side to the pump. So you can test the relay simply by checking for + voltage at the pump harness. If you have no positive voltage the relay is located above and to the drivers side of the steering col. You must remove the trim panel to see them. There will be several realys in a row, they are all the same so you could swap one to see if it cures the problem. Hope this helps Here is what a relay looks like

Ah Vert. I really do not like stepping on other peoples threads. Your problem could be the thermosensor but may be the IAC valve. I do not want to sound like an arseorifice, but please email me or start a new thread and we will discuss it in detail.

Glen is correct the VR is in the alt. This is a common problem the VR goes toast and causes the alt to send maximum charge to the bat. This condition can not only damage the battery (gets so hot the plates in the cells warp and short) but also can fry sensitive electronic equipment (read ECU ect) Fishing in the bay of E can net you one for about 30 GWs.

GB last question first - the VR (Voltage Regulator) is inside of the alternator. Any EA81 from 83 up through 91 EA82's will fit and work fine (if a boneyard or fishing trip in the bay of E is in your future). In light of the power load you impose on the alt. You might also investigate the uprade to a XT6 alt or the GM alt conversion talked about in a recent thread. That is IF the alt is toast. You say Drove to a couple of different places with several miles in between with no change in condition, then parked it for awhile and when I came out it was dead. This is evidence that a short to ground has occured and is draining the battery OR driving with no charging killed the battery. The water may or may not have caused the problem, first check the fusible link closest to the strut tower, it's connections do like to get knackered. (Remember the only way to test a FL is with a continutiy meter) This Fusible Link feeds the alt. output to the car and the battery. Therefore if it is not "making the trip" your system will act as you describe. I would charge the battery and test for a short to ground that could be draining the charge. Do this by connecting a low wattage 12 volt lamp in series with the positive battery cable. If it lights or glows with the key off you have a problem. When you find the ground fault the lamp will go out. Then check to see if the alternator is the problem. Hope this helps

The switch for the dash indicator is on the transmission. Very hard to reach as it is high on the passenger side rear. Make sure the car is not in 4wd, as this switch is only activated when the lever for shifting into 4wd is moved to the engagement position. or The wires from the switch may have been pinched. This pair of wires from the switch (one blue with a red tracer and one black) run on top of the transmission and meet a subharness at a barrel connector under the spare tire. The blue/red wire could be gounding out as that is what turns the light on. (The black wire is a ground wire) There is a fairly recent post on problems caused by the cable from the vacuum servo unit that controls 4wd engagement sticking, you may want to search and read. Mine recently did this also. I wrote an article on repair of this system but it has not made it into the repair manual. Email me and I'll send you a copy if you like. Hope this helps

My check mark goes beside the fuel injection thermosensor. It's not telling the ECU the engine is cold and so it is not richening the mixture. Check the connections and then test the unit It is screwed into the upper rad hose connection and has a wired pig tail (other coolant sensor there is for the dash gauge). Do a search for coolant sensor - read all about it Hope this helps