Skip

Will I ment by pass any other devises and run the line direct from the turbo outlet to the waste gate control diaphram. Kam, and Will, Please do what you want, but the waste gate duty solenoid's funtion is to allow the ECU to increase the boost when it deems necessary. You both have too much boost already. If I were confronted with this situation I would use a "MityVac" with a pressure output to see if the control diaphagms are ruptured or the control rods are bound somehow. My feeble mind tells me this is the only way that the boost can do what you say it is (aside from some physical limitation on the wastegate control rod, Will I know you say yours is not limited) is a blockage in the waste gate passage. Put Mity Vac pressure of about 10 PSI on the waste gate control diaphram and see if the control rod moves and stays moved. BTW My car with custom down pipe and free flow exhaust and intake sit right where I set the boost control valve pressure

Are there two turbos / waste gates on these or did you swap the turbo unit? You could try just running a line from the small nipple on the turbo outlet to the waste gate control diaphram

Will, . What make is the boost pressure control valve you are using?

May I be so bold as to ask for the difference between a) addiction, compulsive preoccupation c) obsession I think I may have (D) all of the above? Subitious sufferers unite

Straight bars also afford a decent place to mount some types of ICs (nice job Snowman)

Pacer, are you a aware of the fact the front of the engine needs dismanatled to service the oil pump? The driver's side cam belt also turns the oil pump. You may want to arm yourself with some other maintance parts if you are going to attemp this. The list is: cam seals front seal belts? (idlers if ness.) H20 pump Please help me out here guys if I missed something. One other thing I just thought I might mention. The lifters are pumped up by oil pressure which is held in check by relief valves in the cam cases. Since this came on rather suddenly maybe you have a stuck relief valve allowing the pressure in the lifter gallery to not come up to the proper pressure. They can be accessed by removing the cam covers and the "banjo" bolt found under the cover. You can see these relief valves circled in this scan

Caleb, although I agree with you, the one on my GL turbo wagon is straight for this purpose. The do make them to fit the app. Here is my 2.5RS The one on the rear is also curved. and yes they were a little more than 40 GWs each. Now with CAD they can be reinforced to take the loading. Maybe Shean can use pict to help in his design?

c150L your XT6 uses a Hot Wire MAF and does indeed have a "pot" (potentiometer) in the TPS. This discussion is for the older style FI system that Ben's RX has.

Sorry, Gregg, the operating principles are totally different. Yours is basiclly a potentiometer (variable resistor) the hot wire MAF is a wheatstone bridge (resistance changing due to temperature variation) If you would care to learn more about the two different types of air flow sensors please see http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h34.pdf You would need to change the ECU. wiring harness and various sensors. A wee bit more involved than bodging an adapter for your new filter.

Ben, don't mean to step on your question to BB, hope he still answers. The one ground point that is crucial to headlight (all lights) is the ground point (bolt) on dr. side strut tower directly behind the coil. Our head lights use a negative (or ground) switching system. The +12 from the bat is applied to the lights any time the ignition switch is in the run position. To switch the lights ON, the negative is fed to filament (hi/low) via the switch. The head lamp switch gets this ground connection fom the ground point behind the coil. In brief - this point carries all the current needed to light the lights. This fact was gleaned from the FSM for my car. Hope this helps

Andrew, I think from reading his post, Red's engine is a bit modified, thus explaining the head bolts and the pistons. Sorry Rob the EA82T pistons in my 87 are not flat, as seen below Here is another look at the top of the engine block http://www.westol.com/neper/EA82Tpistons2.JPG Red, your comments on vacuum are no doubt from an valve staying open, possibly from carbon deposits? Some Seafoam in the PCV valve may clean the carbon off. "MotorVac" a walnut blasting technique is also ment to remove carbon as are some other methods. Easier than yankin a head?? Exhaust valves can burn also though, a cylinder leak down test will tell. On the dash vent wierdness, and power brake. Sounds like you have some check valve issues. There should be a check valve in the white cannister on the shelf behind the dr. side strut tower and one in the line to the power booster. Hope the pictures help.

Gregg, welcome to the board. As you are a bit new pleas excuse the... The one problem you are going to have (unless you somehow use the existing air box) is supporting the MAF. As it is now the air box is the support. You can add a bracket down to the frame. You will need an elbow with a sharp 90 deg turn to miss the inner fender. If you would like I can send you some pictures of my varrious creations or goto http://www.subspeed.com/ He sells a rather expensive adapter, but it may give you an idea. Here is an experimental version but the MAF to turbo pipe needs changed as shown to set the MAF back. You can see the bracket though. One small warning though, these style MAF's do like a volume of air in front of them. That is why the air box is configed like it is, I believe. I learned this using the above prototype. My filter is now mounted in the area between the inner fender and fender. Hope this helps some. (Doom please, instead of post trampling - you might try to PM Samo )

Mitch, I'm corn fused (very easy to do)I have a few 87 vintage EA82Ts, none have a PCV connection to the stock intake metal piece if by this you mean the part that has "Subaru Turbo" cast in it? I call that the intake plenum. I also have all my PCV lines (incl. PCV valve, cam covers and MAF to turbo pipe connection) connected together and run to an external filter. If you have a BPV connected to the IC and not to the MAF to turbo pipe and it is opening too soon this will cause what you are descibing. Did you connect the vacuum line for the BPV? OR you left the line to the intake plenum from the AAV (connects on the under side of the plenum's "neck") off, it will do this also. (That's an easy one to miss) Sorry I couldn't help more as I said I'm corn fused. Pictures are worth kilowords

Glad the pict help find the plug, sorry it didn't cure the problem. If you emailed back, it got "spammed" There are two relays behind the pass strut under a cover. The feed for the AAV is suppose to come off of the AC relay (beside it is the rad fad relay for turning on the rad fan when the AC is on.) You could try unplugging the AC relay to see if it fixes the problem.

Knight, welcome to the board. Nice to see a local. Where about in P-burgh do you reside? I'll give a shot at a couple of your questions. 1) a conversion kit to change it over from a carb to fuel injection No "kit" per say exists as far as I know, Holley makes some universal kits - there have been attemps at converting to Subaru SPFI (Single Point Fuel Inj.) and a very interesting conversion to a Bosch CIS system but you are limited by the head config. The injector mounting takes some ingenuity. Here is the result using the search funtion for "SPFI conversion" you might find interesting http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3651 2) a shop where I could get a body kit and a spoiler for the car. The pict of your car makes it hard to tell what model it is, please post a side view. 1989 it is probably is what we commonly refer to as a 3 door coupe, but the head lights say different. I didn't know they imported Hatches in 89?? If it's 3 door coupe, kits can be found (hens teeth but they are out there), this model was also sold as an RX. They had the body kit you seek. If it is indeed a Hatch then?? Most guys lift them and but big meats on them. 3) MOST importantly does anyone know how to replace the stock radio without makeing it look like crap. As you have no doubt learned there are a very limited number of aftermarket head units that will fit. Many of us use an extender housing to cover the protruding part. These are available on Ebay and at several online companies. You could try a search for stereo installation. I came up with this http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?s=&action=showresults&searchid=28332&sortby=&sortorder= Hope some of this helps.

Chiming - As it would be bodaciously bogus to disagree with anything Caleb, the SUBARU MASTER, says (I don't understand why he uses a butcher for an avatar though? self proclamation? ;^) I would like to point to some points for grounding on turbos that sometimes need attention. 1) Front drivers side core support (I clean and replace the phillips head with a standard 10mm head size bolt.) 2) Pass side front intake manifold bolt (dash to engine ground - a TSB was issued durring the time of production on this ground problem) One small item the SUBARU MASTER did not address is this statement "Idle stays steady upon starting but once you kick it down it " Now whoa be it for me to suggest a sticking componet (throttle pedal pivot, cable or other related devise), as the master would surely have picked up on this if it needed mentioned. To test if it's the AAV pinch the hose to it. All in jest as I do not like the look of the cutlery he is wielding, plus the fact, one thin I dew knew fer sure is "YA DON"T MESS WITH TEXAS!!" SSout

I thank you all for your comments. I have a nasty habit of reading a lot, applying proper filters and watching for repeated quotes. Here is what I have found in reference to the above statements With DEX-COOL®, the maximum ratio of antifreeze to water is 60/40. Although DEX-COOL® type antifreeze can be mixed with standard ethylene glycol antifreeze, DEX-COOL® loses its 5 yr./150,000 life. As such, it?s best not to mix antifreeze types unless absolutely necessary. All coolants must be diluted with water at the proper ratios and should not be used full-strength. Full-strength antifreeze actually has a lower freeze point than when mixed with water. Generally, standard ethylene glycol type antifreeze should be changed every two years or 24,000 miles. CORROSION PROTECTION Acid neutralization capability is very important. Coolant which has been left in a cooling system for several years has probably become acidic from the oxidation of the glycol to acids. Also, keeping the glycol concentration in the cooling system below 50% will help stability. Once again I thank you all for your comments.

Buddy, check to see if the tail lights are working. they are wired into the dash light circuit, kind of a warning system. Please give the year and model of car you are talking about.

Jay, I believe you are on the right track with the AC connection. One small item, I believe this portion dealing with the FICD (Fast Idle Control Devise) on a turbo car is independant of the ECU. It is under control of the AC system only. I think the micro switch for AC control is either stuck closed or jamed in some way to keep it in the closed position. To check this micro switch look above the throttle pedal and in toward the HIVAC housing. There will be a black sheathed set of two blue wires. This runs to the control microswitch under a cover. The other end terminates in a plug, you could disconnect it there for testing purposes. If you feel this information is some help but can not locate the switch please feel free to email me. I have pictures of said location. I rewire this micro switch switch to a control switch beside the blower control. Yielding AC in any vent position.

I guess my email did not make the trip? You are correct Lewis the headline is a bit confusing The link head line reads "Subaru Trouble Code Info Retrieving Trouble Codes 96 & later are OBD2 systems" This is to tell you IF you have a 96 or later, the car is equiped with the OBD 2 system and the procedure outlined in the link will NOT work. ALL systems up to 96 are covered, please scroll down the page you will see what we are trying to tell you. Here is a link to another site Early Subaru Trouble Codes And yes, in the area where you found the green connectors (these are called "test mode connectors") should be another pair of single wire connectors. They will be of another color, probably white. (these are called "read memory connectors") I did a search on the board for you. Please look at this post and read the first post by Asavage he explains it better than I can. http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4449&highlight=trouble+code I do not think this is going to help your current problem, I'm sorry. The part about blowing and sucking on the booster hose has me confused as you are about the problem. Could you please tell us a little bit more about this b and s you did.

The distributor is very close to the heater hoses, if it took a big hit of coolant it could have moisture trapped inside of it. Pull the cap and dry it out (hair drier would be kewl) check the wires and the sp. plug areas also. If you do want to do a comp test. just look for one cyl to be much lower than the others. The spark plug in the cyl with the failed gasket will also look "steam cleaned" Is the car loosing coolant? As for a cracked head, you must have a coolant system leak down test performed at a place that has a leak down tester. This devise consists of a pump that connects to the rad in place of the cap and pressurizes the coolant system. The crack is normally in the exhaust port and will allow coolant to leak out of the exhaust pipe near the head. Hope this helps

Thank you very much Setright We should add that water has excellent thermal transfer properties also Thermal Conductivity water = 0.60 Watt/m · °C vs Glycol at 0.25 Watt/m.°C But alas you are correct when you say "The only trouble is convincing people of these facts." More excellent reading at http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/wwti.htm Thanks again for your suuport.

Dave, I agree with Josh. It sounds like one of VSSs is not outputing the correct signal. The TCU is just looking for continuity I believe so if it is connected but not sending the correct signal it will not show a trouble code. Your idea of a new speedo head may prove beneficial. Maybe someone (Josh?) knows what the signal from the VSS looks like and with the aid of a 0-scope you could watch and verify their outputs.

I resuscitated this from an old series "Hot Tips from Skip" just thought this time of year it might help some one out?? Giving or getting a Jump Start The safest way is to use a "Jump Box"**. Period. I carry mine all winter BUT if you are not fortunate enough to have one, here is a method I have been using since a battery blew up in my face (yep thats why I B this way) in 1968. Using this method takes a little more time BUT protects both vehicles, and their electronics. ** "Jump Box" is a small gell cell 12 volt battery in a plastic box about the size of a Playmate cooler. Procedure: 1] Shut off the jumper (car doing the jumping) 2] connect red cable, positive post to positive post- (ie battery to battery, make absolutely sure of the correct polarity!!) 3] connect negative cable (aka black) from jumper car alt bracket to jumpee (dead one) negative battery post. 4] Start jumper. 5] Here is the important step, hope you have read this far, let the jumper run on a fast idle (~1500 RPM) for 3 to 5 minutes!!! - Told ya it was going to take some time. Have the person with the dead car sit in your car and tell them the virtues of Subarus. 6] Equally as important -- shut the jumper OFF before cranking the jumpee!!!! This is the key to NOT toasting any electronic components. 7] Disconnect the cable to the alt bracket first when removing the cables. Thus preventing any sparks near top of battery getting the big charge. You think this is not important? (I saw up close and personal what can happen or you could ask the pilot of the Hindenberg about it) Theory: warning..here is the boring part The time period spent talking up Subarus - or what ever - puts a "surface charge" on the dead battery. The cranking amps needed to turn the dead car over are pulled mainly from this surface charge and NOT on the jumper's alt. Plus when it fires the twin battery hook up, remember the cables are still connected, buffers any surge as the VR does not see a completely dead battery. I hope this helps and thanks for reading. I most heartily welcome comments, corrections, rebuts, or other statements about this procedure. As I said I have only been using it for about 35 years so I am sure there is room for improvement. Remember: Be careful out there.

This time of year the age old question of antifreeze and it's mix ratio crops up in the northern hemisphere. I realize everyone's busy schedule prevents them from reading much but here is an excerpt any vintage Suby owner should read. copy pasted from http://www.challengers101.com/CoolantMix.html Why a rich mix gives less cooling: First of all, in this article, we refer to the stuff you buy simply as “antifreeze.” It comes under many different trade names, and for automotive applications, is usually ethylene glycol. We'll just call it “antifreeze.” Now if you've ever poured the stuff into a radiator, you no doubt observed that it is much “syrup-i-er” than water. That is, it has a much higher viscosity. This means that it will not flow as fast through the system as water, and the cooling effect will be less. Further, the specific heat of antifreeze is less than that of water. This means that for a given temperature change, the antifreeze will carry less heat each time it circulates from engine to radiator and back. So, if the mix is too rich, the cooling efficiency will be reduced because (1) the flow rate is less, and (2) less heat is transferred per cycle of the coolant. _________________________ also for your reading http://www.carcarecouncil.org/Cooling_System/antifreeze.shtml I doubt very highly if you have read this far, but with the cooling issues so many of us have.......... long since forgotten as summer has been over for several months, this could be something to remember come June. For those that have followed along, I thank you for your attention and Remember to use distilled H20.