Skip

Sorry Donald, to my knowledge they never were in the kick panel. The Spfi units have them under the hood in the area by the drivers side hood hinge Turbo units have them to the left side of the ECU which is near the steering column, not in the kick panel. But just above your knees while driving. The trim panel under the steering column must be lowered. Just wanted Mitch to be able to find them. The manuals will also tell you to have the "idle switch" closed. This switch is incorporated in the throttle position sensor (TPS) and will be closed if the car is idling properly. BTW these green connectors are called "test mode" connectors The ones normally used for checking trouble codes are black on turbos and white or black on the SPFI and are called "read memory" connectors. Both found in the same general area as the "test mode" connectors

There is a saying "where there is grease - there can't be water" This from boat trailer owners, could apply to you creek forders Just take care to not blow the grease seals out if you give this ago

Mitch I like to take just number one plug out (pass.side front) and put a plastic soda straw in the hole a short way (3 or so inches) Put a 7/8" socket on a ratchet turn engine clockwise till the straw moves. Either stroke (comp or exhaust) will yield the timing marks in the window. 10, 0, 10, 20 BTDC Another way is to pull the dist cap and turn the engine until the rotor points at number 1 or 2 spark plug wire tower. Ed's idea on paint is way kewl (I use a yellow paint stick). DO NOT forget to plug the green connectors together when you check/set the idle speed timing. (23 deg BTDC) Then unplug when done, these are beside the ECU under the trim panel under the steering col. Hope this helps

This does make sense, the purpose of the introduction of exhaust gas into the intake is to lower the combustion chamber temp, thus reducing oxides of Nitrogen. The turbo needs any help it can get in lowering the comb. chamber temp, this in an effort to reduce pre-ignition and detonation. Many thanks to Mike for the excellent picts and to Caleb for doing the search and posting the link

Bill it was my understanding that the MAP sensor style FI was introduced on the 2000 Impreza, up to then they used a MAF to sense air flow

Sorry to read this, what a bummer! Suby, my bet is it had a gauge and no idiot light, with all the malfuntioning sender units on these cars, she could have ignored it. With solid lifters it probably made little noise before the kaboom. Sweep the vultures do,w/ no condolenses.

roque43, Dean is correct check your fuses first trip pooter - fuses #5 and #12 t.s. - fuse # 10 My check mark goes beside a bad flasher unit. As for maintance items, timing belts may be first on your list They should be changed at 60 kmi, you may be lucky in so much they may have been changed but... sitting for that long may have dried them out - some rubber like products (tires for instance) need to be "exersized" to keep their pliability. You may want to pull a cover for a peek. Note: no engine damage will result if one breaks as these are non-interference engines. The normal fluid changes are in order - please do not forget the brake fluid - it could have absorbed moisture over the years. Hope this helps

Mr. 4FOR4, your Brat has a two fuel filters. As outlined in this thread, many times one is neglected. One of my Brats was doing exactly as you mentioned, I found the rear filter almost plugged. The Brats, as all Subarus of this vintage, has an external to the tank fuel pump. Kneel down by the rear of the drivers door and look under the cab. A small shelf with the fuel pump is there. The input line to the pump has the primary fuel filter. This filter is often overlooked. As for testing the pump, please ask in a separate post or email me directly. Sir Stupidru, I see your other post working. The fuel filter on the turbo vehicle is a horse of a MUCH different color. There is only one, located under the hood in the area above the master cyl. PLEASE make sure you get a turbo fuel filter, catastrophic results may happen if a carbed fuel filter is used. As evidenced in a turbo car Noah, Steve and I saw in a boneyard. Steve was going to show a picture of this engine. It was a shot of the carbed fuel filer - it burst under the FI fuel pressure and torched the entire under hood area.

Thanks Josh, as usual very good info, sure hope I don't have to rip it apart that far. Will have to get over to the car and dive in. Hopefully me and my shop vac will yield a solution

Erik, far as I know the flywheel will only go one one way. It's all about the bolt spacing. you did use the three little marks?

Not to offend anyone, but he "stupid" vapor separator above the master cyl is another fuel filter. This is called a "liquid diverter" in some parts stores. I cut one in half and it is a filter. Bill, it may be worth a look but for the problem under load, the power valve in the bottom of the fuel bowl could be to blame as it's function is to supplement the primary throttle bore under low vacuum (high load) conditions. Might try some "Sea Foam", a miracle in a can available at NAPA and Advanced Auto Parts houses, that has been known to well work miracles.

Welcome to the board, Alithea Glen brings up some good points which deserve checking, but your SPFI system has no cold start valve, this function is solely the duty of the ECU. For it to accomplish this action it must know the engine is cold. This is the job of the FI coolant thermosensor. You can have it tested but sometimes it is as simple as cleaning the contacts in the connector. I believe you will find this sensor on the pass. side of the upper rad hose fitting. There are two sensors for temperature on this fitting one for the FI system the other for the dash temp gauge. The one you want to look at has a pig tail wire with a connector on it. (the other will have a wire connected directly to it) If you find the thermosensor and would like to test it, I can send you a chart of it's resistance vs temperature. Hope this helps somewhat

I lent my 2000 2.5 RS to my sister for the winter, she informed me one of my furry friends left a nest in the blower motor squirrel cage. I am framilar with the blower motor removal from the old school Soobs. Can anyone give me any insight as to the removal of the blower motor/fan on my 'Preza? Thanks for any tips, I could go to the "other" board, I guess I'd rather keep it in the family so to speak I 'preciate your understanding

Erik, sorry, I am not one of the experts you may be waiting for. I just need to ask 1) did you use the middle of the three belt timing marks - not the ignition timing mark 2) were the cams in a 180 deg phase relationship when you were done? I.e. one dot up, one dot down as seen here And finally Frag's sug is a good one and did you crank it long enough for the lifters to pump up after the rebuild? Plus the throttle should be wide open when doing the comp test. Hope this helps

BF, no harm will come of the electrical system but because you are not charging the battery, it's charge level will fall. If it falls below about 8 volts the ECU will not function, resulting in no spark or fuel injection. 15 mim is not too long, please be judious of the high current drawing devises (heater fan, hi beam headlamps, wipers - I know it's raining maybe use them on intermitant if possible.) You have been running on low charge to begin with (glowing lights mentioned) so you may be starting off with a partially charged bat. Good luck

BF, Qman is correct the charging diodes sound like they have failed. I have tested and repaired a few alternators I post this pict simply to try and give some credit my post. I have tested alts that will show an output of 13.8 Vdc or so but do not put out the charging amperage. This I believe is a fault within the alt, the charge diodes allowing an AC voltage to be presented. You may want to check the fusible link closest to the rear of the strut tower (these are in a black plastic box located on the rad. over flow bottle) This link feeds the alt output to the battery and the cars electrical system, this link's spade connections tend to corrode. Also please check that the alt belt is tight - highly unlikely but this could be a reason for low alt output. Hope this helps

Alais is talking some seriously good stuff here. I would like to add 1) the "beam" style torques wrenches have limitations but given the broad band of torque quoted for lug nuts they are much better than no torque wrench. Shoot for the middle of the range. 2) Two very important places a good TW comes into focus that most people never even think of are i) Spark plugs - too loose the can work out of the head - sometimes tearing the last couple threads out - bummer Too tight and they can gaul in the head and be a real bugger to remove. ii) Get this one!! - Oil pan drain plug. Too tight - can strip either plug or pan, too loose --well no need for explaination except for "Hey Ethel what is that ticking noise"--- WHACK Make a torque wrench your friend, and one last addition about the calibration, (which is a very good idea) - these "snap" type TWs work via a spring load, and as with all spring loaded devises, they are best left unwound. When finsidhed with the TW set the dial back to zero, this will help keep it calibrated. Hope this helps

Jim, I talked to my brother Mo about this, he called his brother Ron He said pull the connector on the wiper moter apart?? Drive to Uncle Charlie's waffle house and plug the connector back togeather. Try the way hi speed wipers. If that does not fix it, he told me my cousin Id had this problem, He consulted my unkle Iot. He said loosen the screw holding the ground wire on the cover of the wiper motor. Wash the dash board then retighten the screw?? I don't know anything about those things but this is the way my family fixed it Hope this wipes the smile off your face J/K

Thanks Josh, and thanks for the relay idea. Going on with what Dave says about throwing an error code if the DS is left disconneted. Two lame ideas come to my feable brain The relay could be a drop relay that is reset when the ignition is off (something like the cruise control "on" system) Or The NO contacts could be wired to a resistor eqaul to the resistance value of the DS coil. I am seeing a DS A error now and am comptemplating removing the valve body to correct it - after it warms up a bit. Thanks for all the replys

As mentioned it is generally not advisable to put a BOV on a MAF equipped car. Acura's and later model Subarus have a MAP sensor which is a horse of a different air metering system. Nice work though Pleiades. I see you also have a mechanical temp gauge fitted to the heater hose line. Thanks Caleb and Kevin for the props. Couple other questions/answers Caleb Unfortunately, most of the labeled items aren't really visible Thanks for pointing that out, I will work on a page with links to each element describing the function and build process. Snowman what does your strut brace attach to and have you noticed if it makes any difference in handling It is attachecd to the lugs for mounting the spare tyre carrier. I preloaded the brace app 12mm, using a porta power. Yes the car feels much better in the twisty bits and a shimmy I had at app. 65 MPH is gone. Suba so, what have you all used for piping on the intercoolers? I used silicone hose from http://www.hosetechniques.com/ for the intake pipe And truck radiator hoses with anti-collapse springs fitted. I had full sized templates and went to an auto store with pipes hanging on a rack and bought the ones that fit my templates. Hope this helps

Brookelea, welcome to "the" Subaru board, please excuse the incessant individual that must step on your post rather than starting one of his own. E. Monk has some good links for you and I have done some extensive work on the air suspension system. Please ask your hubby to describe what the system is not doing. Are all shocks deflated? Is one end higher than the other? Do you ever hear the compressor running? Is the "height" button light flashing? If he would like, he can email me (click the "email" button below my post). I have the FSM (Factory Service Manual) covering the system and rather than asking some question that has nothing to do with your problem, I could possibly lead him on the path to repair.

Please excuse me for posting this so often, I am sure many of you are v.tired of seeing it. The BPV is from a Volvo and makes very little noise when bypassing. IC from Mitsu Starion Email me for details or simply post here. Hope this gives you some ideas

Most excellent, yes, I need the solenoid that is located on the top portion of the valve body. I can scan a pict of how to get to it Please email me if this tranny comes your way Thanks

Thanks Dave, I read that thread earlier. Sounds like he has wiring problems, his voltage readings show the solenoid is not getting juice and is therefore not draining the pressure from the pack and it is causing the bind. The last post was over a month old so I didn't reply. The key here is the fact that DS C is a drain port, not an activation port. In the begining I thought when the solenoid got a signal it activated the rear drive, this is wrong. When it gets a signal it releases the pressure to the rear drive clutch pack, thus the switch works. Sounds like you know a bit about hese 4EATs, have you seen this post by chance? http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9159 Thanks again

Has anyone even had the pan off of a 4EAT?