Skip

Alex, an answer your last question I wonder what would let the car engine work perfectly for 20 seconds, then begin to cause problems. could be the choke pulloff is not working. The engine can only take a super rich choked condition for about that long. It then would begin to "load up" stumble and could easily stall. The idle problem sure sounds like a idle circuit in the carb problem. But the vacuum leak you can not find may be the choke pulloff diaphragm. The use of a "miracle in a can" called "Seafoam" has produced some hard to believe results. Maybe a bit of it in the carb bowl and the old trick of rev it up and choke the carb closed, would clean the offending material out of the jets.

As for the choke problem. With the engine cold, take the air cleaner top off. Look down into the carb throat, it should be an open cavity. Now, Step on the gas pedal once and look down. The choke (a flate plate in the upper section of the carb throat) should be closed and almost seal the top of the carb opening. If it is not, spraying some quality lubricant (read NOT WD40) like Triflow or LPS on the linkage under the aircleaner housing, that may free it up so that it does close. IF that doesn't help - post back and we will try and give you more advice. Hope this helps.

How about this for a test, wire or prop the waste gate full open. The turbo will still spin but the turbine will not get up to the speed it normally does. If it still makes the same noise start thinking --well ..release bearing maybe??

Sorry, mate. I didn't me to give you a start. What you are saying is the distance shown on the EA flywheel below as "X" is equal to the adapter thickness plus the same distance measured on the EJ flywheel. In other words, the EJ flywheel is thinner than the EA flywheel by the thickness of the adapter plate.

Carumba, I am sorry these connections to the positive terminal, the meshy looking thing and the green wire, do not sound factory. Nor do four melted ground wires (no color indicated? are they all black coming out of the main harness?) Pictures would sure help. Here is a method you can use to prevent a Chernoble next time you try it. Wire a light bulb (like a trailer light or any form of aux. light you can scronge up) in series with the negative cable. IF you have a major short -which you do - the light will light. Remove wires untill the light goes out. Then we can find out where the wires should be going. If anyone ever needed a wiring diagram -- it be you.

Very well done Troy. I have one simple question from my simple mind. Now that the throw out bearing sits 1/2" further away from the pressure plate, did you make any provisions for moving the clutch fork arm pivot closer to the engine? Sorry I'm sure you addressed this and I missed it.

Yep, POO POO on pistons

I am sure you KNOW these inside and out, just make sure the proper line from the wastegate duty solenoid is the one you connect to the MAF pipe, if not you will have no wastegate operation, I KNOW you knew this, sorry

yes

David you were turning the piston while you were prying it back, weren't you??

How quick we forget what board we are on But alas maybe this is why we forget "Coloni- Revised C3B chassis powered by a flat-12 Motori Moderni-designed Subaru engine, with transverse gearbox from the same company. An over weight and extremely ungainly makeshift machine." pushrods, I don't see no stinkin' pushrods??

I used 2", improved both low end and top end with this setup

I just went out and measured the stock rad fan for my 87 wagon. Pulled 7 amps on 12Vdc. I think 30 amps is over kill unless you plan on wiring both fans in parallel to the one relay such as this, hope this helps

The '87 GL-10 will have a MPFI turbo so the fitting on the goose neck (upper rad hose fitting) is too small. I used a 1/2" galvenized pipe Tee. The temp gage fitting I had screwed directly (read no thread issues) into the leg of the Tee. I put two short nipples in the ends of the Tee. The heater hose is 5/8". I used the one coming from the goose neck and spliced it in under the spare. This also affords one with a place for backflushing should the need arise. Hope this is easier to read and helps somewhat

Mad Jon, please take a closer look at the placard. Is there a decimal point between the numbers as 2.2 bar = 32 PSI 2.3 bar = 33.4 PSI And I was always taught, which does not prove anything, that the tyre pressure given was for maximum load i.e. GVW Now I personally do not ride with 5 people and their luggage every day, so I adjust mine accordingly. My GL-10 (Old school talk and I know it does not matter -13" wheels, what matters is 185/70) is very happy and wears her tyres evenly at 28 fnt 24 rear. But I believe my car also weighs less. I am saying your results may vary, no batteries included. Hope this helps

Has anybody heard from Knight? I PM'd him but maybe he doesn't know about it. And you do not get the alert unless you select it in the cp. Just wonderin about a fellow P-burgh'r

GOOD CALL JoANNE!! They can be a bugger to remove if you do not do the oil on the gasket. Please read and listen to Ed's post also, very good points. Yes, Dave I was speaking of the pan threads, thanks

Dan, I agree with Rich, have the no load voltage checked. Should be in the range 13.8 to 14.2 Vdc. This could be normal operation but... You say "volts are pegged where they should be...." The voltmeter should not be "pegged", maybe you just used that to indicate where the needle is ?? but... This is a sign of over voltage, these alt.s are famous for this. Sounds like the internal voltage regulator is knackered. I read you have a new alt "belt" not a new alt. is that correct?

Yes, you should have Tex check it out. Sounds like it may be plumbed backwards, here is how it should be plumbed. The "MAF to Turbo Pipe" is the canister opening you speak of. The intake plenum is after the IC, before the throttle body, like you say you have it installed.

I find it strange that only the Pure 1 would have the ADV. The article did not bring this to light. The Purolater filter I tested in my shop was a Pure 1. I will have to check the others in the line, and get back at ya. The evidence of an ADV is visable BTW.

Greg, if you hold the pedal to the metal, does it start any easier? I am thinking heat soak is boiling the fuel in the bowl and flooding the engine. Black smoke when it does fire? Any mods done to the carb heat system? Maybe the coolant hose to the carb base is plugged? Not much help, sorry

I am sorry Flow, I checked all my FSMs close to your year (84,85,86) and the all say there is a black wire (to ground) and a light green with red tracer wire from the rev sensor. I'm sorry, hopefully someone else has a manual with your colors. Shameless bump none the less.

The subject of Subaru engines needing and or using ADVs (Anti Drainback Valves) was brought up on the Oil filter post by OZsubie. To continue Setright says Skip, there is no rubber valve under the inlet holes in the Sube filters I install. For sure. Oil runs out from these holes when I prime it to the brim. Setright, you are correct, on the factory filter designed for EJ series engines, there is no ADV, however the aftermarket (Purolator, Wix, ect), do have an ADV. I just went out to the shed and tested several. I will show results of the test if necessary. The Subaru tech info on the EJ series says the oil pump is designed to hold oil, so that it's always primed, even after not running for a long time. I would suggest that in conjunction with the filter orientation, that function negates the need for the ADV. I have no trouble with this, but the discussion was for an EA82 series which I do not think has this technology. Couple this with the fact that the filter sits horizonal, having an ADV is a bonus. Furthermore the oil galleries that serve the Hydraulic Lash Adjusters are formed to separate air bubbles before they enter the HLA. I applaud your knowledge of the EJ series engine. I have owned several and have never expierenced lifter clack, piston slap yes, lifter noise no. Is it possible, Subaru engineers figured this out from the problems encountered with the EA82 and incorporated it in the EJ series? Again this discussion was started and centered on the EA82 series. On this series I believe an ADV is a valuable asset.

Setright, this is starting to border on post trampling, perhaps we should continue it under it's own thread. Please see "Oil filters and the ADV"

Setright, the ADV is just under the openings you see around the perimeter of the screwed on end of the filter. It acts as a check valve when the oil pump is not pumping. The "state of the art" seals are now made of silicone instead of the nitrile rubber now used in many filters. I did get some clicky clack when I didn't fill the filter. That is one reason I do fill the filter. It does take several "fillings". I did a small Goggle search on the ADV and here is the result. Several links speak of noises attributed to poorly designed ADVs. BTW Wix are very good filters and are made by Dana Corp. Here is the link should you care to investigate further. http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&q=anti+drainback+valve&spell=1