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Pretty poor job but ..... hope ya get the idea

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Imagine that, Corky is too old (or wise or both) for jumpin' to

Mark I would think this would be a much better place to get the info you so desperately desire? I could be wrong - and normally am - so please excuse this interruption, now back to our regularly scheduled program http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/

I was too lazy to do a simple Google. The answer is given here and from the look of this evan a carbed EA82 block is closed. The grid work has nothing to do with it being closed/ open, it appears it may have been an indicator of the casting process NOT the internal consturction, now if one jumps high enough, they could say vis a vis. But I'm too old for jumping. If you care to see what I am rambling about try this link http://www.legacycentral.org/library/deck.htm

Will I am not questioning your ability to see, but what observation were you basing this statement? "It does look closed deck to me" As I will ask again How does one ascertain this feature of open/closed?

Here is a pict of the grid work on a EA82T. Where in the literature does it say that "all blocks cast with a grid work are of made using the medium cast method"? Or is this pure conjecture? Is the EA82T block open or closed deck? This is what Marnix had used to tell which was a closed deck in the first place. If it isn't closed then what is to say it isn't medium cast? Seems to me, conclusion jumping should be an Olympic event around here. How does one ascertain this feature of open/closed?

Matthew Bos, with this type of problem there are two items that come to mind, you will need a Justy manual to find them, do you have one?? Check the fuel injection thermosensor for dirty contacts or a faulty unit There must be an IAC (Idle air control valve), sounds like it is wanting cleaned as it is attempting to set the proper idle. Sorry I can help much, one of the Justy Boyz, surely will come to the rescue.

you bet roxt, me and the green bottle have seen a few wild nights. On your problem, the dash vents are vacuum operated. you lost (got knocked off, or became dislodged somehow) the vaccum line to the white plastic cannister that sits behind the pass side shock tower, check lines to it and leaving itand all other vacuum lines as the 4wd system needs vacuum to disengage as well as engage

Gentleman, your cars MAY very well have options either added during purchase or after. This discussion is for the factory package, not some optioned up vehicle you happen to own, please read the original question. Granted my list may not be accurate but just because you have cloth headliner in a GL - I question though, cloth seats yes, not velour - look at a GL-10 of your year before saying "not true".

Backing the car up 20 feet or so will also work. Do not run on a surface that is not traction challenged i.e. snow covered You may want to read this link Jump starting the safe way

A much discussed but hard to find topic. I'll start but am sure I'll miss something GL___________________GL-10 vinyl headliner------------cloth headliner no sun roof----------------power moon roof with slide cover cloth seats----------------velor seats and side panels non adj head restraint- adj head restraint normal drivers chair -----hieght adjustable with adj lumbar sup. intermit wipers------------adjustable time int. wipers analog dash---------------digital dash normal rear seat----------w/ head restraints normal sound isolation---added sound isolation no mudflaps----------------front and rear with rear door gaurds chrome door handles-----black door handles normal fuel system--------later models had turbo MPFI* fnt a-sway bar--------------front and rear antisway bars no trip computer-----------trip computer no center console----------center console arm rest ------------------------------------- *(all turbo cars GL or GL-10 had rear disc brakes) What did I miss?

Did you by chance check the gas gauge

Buddy, all good info given here. I would just like to add, if I may so bold. The cars oil pressure sending unit is located next to the oil filter and is known to leak. Over the miles this leak can be deceiving. I would recco that you clean the area and watch for where the oil leak is coming from. There is quite a difference between replacing a sender unit and tearing the entire front (including T belt covers) off of the engine. Although if you do attempt this tear down, which can be intimidating, you might as well change all the components listed when doing a T belt change. A simple search for "timing belt replacement" will yield this list. Thanks for reading and good luck in your endeavor

Since no mention of the type of transmission is mentioned, I will hazard a guess at a 3 speed automatic (i.e.3AT) This problem is well known and documented in Brian's USRM (Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual). This can be found by clicking on USRM.net seen at the top left of the main page. Here is a link to the repair of the offending part known as the shift "governor" Hope this helps http://www.usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29b58f50d9b8.15492800/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f57fdb83de231.34713659.art

Guessing this is the car in your sig?? The "custom airbox hole" could be causing the primary bore in the carb to ice, at 3k the secondary opens and off you go. Is the exhaust "furnace" pipe connected and the flapper in the snorkle working? Is the "air box hole" plugged for winter driving? I am sorry I have never seen an "air box" on a carbed car?

After using Andy's excellent advise, if you find the problem to be wiring, here is the wiring schematic. Note there are two relays (seen a little left of center) for the head lites, one for the left and one for the right headlamp. It is possible one of them has bad or burned contacts. You do not say if the problem exists in low and hi beam? Why this relay would give you trouble after a tranny swap is also a mystery. You say you checked the ground, well the ground for the head lights is behind the coil, yes the coil, clean this one. But that ground would affect both headlamps. Probably will not help, but here it is

Monty Sounds like a kewl sysytem, you might want to incorporate some LEDs for the height switches in the shocks so you don't over inflate one. The FSM has the pin out you request. I would caution, just opening a solenoid at the shock will not let the air bag deflate, the discharge solenoid on the compressor must also be opened. Same with inflation.

Meeky, is that Hatch Mick showed the same color as mine/your lifted one? (That evan looks like my Brat next to it LOL) I'm gonna need some new wheels FO SHO

Torxx, you are correct on the dual diagonal brake system but almost every car on the highway has them not just Subaru. They became the standard circa 1967. Please see this link if you question that http://www.raybestos.com/OnLineTraining/cpt-006.htm This does change the order in bleeding the system. If you are in doubt of this statement here is a .pdf file you can digest. http://www.champion-auto.com/PDF/29_BleedBr.pdf From this link and may I quote Many front wheel drive vehicles are equipped with a dual diagonal brake system and require a different bleeding sequence .The recommended procedure for this type of system is to bleed in diagonal pairs starting with the right rear and left front, then the left rear, and finally, the right front. Here we see I was incorrect as I said -old school training. The fact still resides in the bleeding of the furtherst first in the system. Starting with the one furthest from the MC. Hope this helps

Please let me begin by saying, I do not want to get into a urinating contest. I have always been taught to a) start at the wheel furthest from the master cyl. (being the pass rear) and work toward the MC. on some calipers raising the end of the vehicle can put the bleed nipple in a position to allow air pockets to excape more readily. c) never push the brake pedal down to a point where the pistons will travel over accumulated debris in the MC. d) if possible use a vacuum or pressure system rather than depressing the brake pedal (see "c" above), if using a vacuum system, remove bleed nipple and cover the treads with a thick grease. This will prevent air from being drawn in. e) use a clear hose on the bleed nipple into a clear jar, thus making it possible to observe air leaving the system. As I have had very little luck bleeding Subaru systems the "old conventional way". I have a spare MC cap with an air fitting drilled and tapped into it. By appling a regulated air pressure of approx. 10 psi, bleeding is as simple as putting the clear hose on the nipple and loosening it approx 1 turn. Keep an eye on the fluid in the MC. BUT I perfer to use the pictured vacuum pump setup Hope this help. And change your brake fluid, it is hrdoscopic

Very nice work Mick, thanks for the update, this page should be added to everyones data base

Yes, there will be a way to see if the ECU be toast -after we find the dead short. I guess my light in series trick doesn't appeal to you, well we need to find which wire is wrong, my guess is "wires" is actually a meshy metal looking thing. I have looked for that one and do not see it on my cars. Pictures = kilowords I emailed you, sorry about the PM box

My EA82T came in at 23 ~ 24 lbs, XT6 at 18~19. Sorry Shawn for the delayed responce, did not see this first time around

The question I believe was stated . are there any differences in flywheels within the xt6 line? To this the answer is no. Will is spot on as usual except for the fact that they weigh about 4 lbs less (23 vs 19 approx.) Here they are in comparision, middle XT6, on right EA82 one on the left is obvious Hope this helps