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Moose of NS, I wanted to give you some impedes to "Just do it" The lift is a Reese small tube reciever hitch from a Ranger It is hinged at the point where the front tow hitches mount. The plows (one, you no doubt recognize) are both spring loaded. The up/down winch is controled from the cockpit This is my rear rack. It slides into the 2" reciever. The castor makes reversing over things easier, and turns the rack into a wheelbarrow type convayence. Two struts can be added under the bumper to prevent tipping, but have not found it ness. Hope this gives you some ideas

Alex, you'll get no argument from me. I think it is a very nobel idea. Your body is no doubt sound, you like the car Why not give it a try. BUT your cheapest way out may be to buy an entire donor car, we see them go from zero dollars to a couple hundred. Take what you need and junk the body. The semantics of storing the bone-yarder (thanks Alexx) while you strip the goodies may prevent this?? My guess is, you may run into things like throttle linkage, sensors other bits that if not acquired could put a damper on the project. Have at it, good luck.

If you are planning on uploading a rather large video, can you also upload a separate audio file for us with speed challenged dial ups? me and my slow arse server thank you

Roo In, nice setup. here is one a little less intense. If you want the "off feature" Run the tank switch contact that now goes to the relay to the other pole of an "on-off-on" type switch.

Simply because I am I use the K.I.S.S. principle. I'd mount a tow hitch & 2" receiver and put one of these in it when plowing or needed Trailer Hitch Acces. You could then also carry a winch mount for the rear or tow a small trailer if a need arises. ;^)

Sk A Roo if I was of your comedic slant, I would say "You crack me up!" And now for your listening pleasure?? I present "Willy the Wonder Wagon" (like in I wonder if it will start?) complete 2.5 inch exhaust w/ twin tube downpipe and a mid mounted hi flow cat ;^) http://www.westol.com/neper/pip.MP3

I wonder why? For starters the FI system is more fuel eff. & a big plus ---- No more HiCrappy Blues. Don't forget the fuel pump and fuel lines need chaged also

try this one, is it any better?? Gonna try the turbo wagon next http://www.westol.com/neper/pipe2.MP3 BTW did anyone read the SKUNK -A-Roo's post closely?? Me thinks he ought to be on Carson, er er Leno. Setright- prefect well done, nice size and super quality One question Lot of Tbelt whine, is that normal??

A major chunk came off of the guy's reefer. Entire car took some serious shots. Guess these chunks hit me at what?? 100 MPH?? Me going 50 as was he. I didn't know it ws toast till I got home. Don't know if the plastic (unless it's polycarb) would have saved it.

Gad what is board coming to. I hate to diss an admin, but aside from the height adj. the XT seat frame is much lower. Where is Trogdor?? I sit much lower (4"??) since I replaced the GL seat with a XT chair and I have the adj full up

These are a very good idea. A chunk of ice off of an 18 wheeler did this last June

Please excuse my ignorance as it is very abundant. But all this talk of the camshaft lobe contacting the lifter has me at a loss. Do you gentleman mean to say "valve lifter" or more correctly "cam follower", as I have never seen an EA82 engine where the camshaft lobe touches the "lifter" The references to the EA81 - yes I believe they do touch. The Will and the Snowman, address this fact. The camshaft lobe does not contact the lifter. The "generalized statement" from the website must be speaking of an in block type design. (as Will comiclly alludes to) So do we have to change cam followers?

a couple items not mentioned you should look closely at are the idler pulley bearings for the Tbelts. This number of miles they could be ready. Didn't see the water pump mentioned (two different shaft lengths make sure you get the correct one) Small clips for the throw out bearing to clutch fork arm. and You may want to thrown in a new set of pressure relief springs for the lifter gallerys. (bout 5 bucks cheap). Keep an eye on the cam case 0 ring. I like to glue mine in place with grease. Good luck, sounds like you'll do just fine.

Back to electronics 101 Donald. The fan always has +12V to it any time the key is on. Lots of good that light will do... it will tell you the key is on. In reference to the factory fan/thermoswitch wiring. I have seen melting and other indicators of too much current on the factory wiring. I guess it is possible that dirt, dry bearings or other debris could cause the fan to "drag" thus increasing the currant draw. I agree with Snowman on his assessment, looks like he made it through E 101 just fine. I use an auxilary relay mounted in the area of the thermoswitch. This relay is fed a 12 v fused hot wire from my main auxilary power system (which is connected to the battery through a large amperage circuit breaker) The relay contacts control the fan. The thermoswitch and the dash switch control the relay coil. (much like Donald thought it worked) This affords a place to pick up a switched hot wire for operating the dash indicator. BTW I don't buy into this "trashwagon" Trash. If you have seen my dashboard I believe it speaks for itself. All wiring diagrams available upon request. Hope this helps avoid a fire or worse.

Thanks Q, I'll try one tomorrow at rest. I tried Scotts, man with a dial up I suffered server cut off before it loaded. I'm trying to keep mine to half meg. for us poor folks with dial ups.

This is not a true statement "when it reaches a set temp, the switch closes and thus trips the fan relay" The thermoswitch in the radiator side tank does NOT control a relay. It is a direct connection from the fan fuse (#15) to the radiator fan, through the thermoswitch to ground. (Did you ever see on an EA81 rad. the grounding strap?) This means it carries the entire current of the fan (which can equal up to 10 amps). Not, as you allude, a small relay coil current. This is one reason why the thermoswitches go bad so often. If some one takes your sage advise, thinking it is just controlling a relay and runs a thin gauge wire, it could over heat and - well possibly cause other problems. Clever, I don't think so -- genius - hardly foolhardy - more like it. A relay can be added as I have done, with an over ride switch plus an ON light to observe when the fan is running. If anyone questions my statement please email me, I will provide you with a wiring diagram from the FSM

ah Donald, ..... This statement is false. "the 88 DOES NOT have a neutral switch, but the loyale does. it should be on the pedal box, but it will not be used on the 88. The neutral switch is not on the pedal box. You are speaking of the clutch switch. There is a bit of a difference. The neutral switch is located on the transmission beside the speedometer cable connection. It has nothing to do with the pedal box or the clutch switch. The clutch switch you are talking about is to disable the starter until the clutch is pushed. and If you look closely you will see the neutral safety switch WAS addressed. Your last suggestion is ludicrous for a car that does not have an ignition switch problem.

The two cars in question both have SPFI fuel injection. Anybody care to comment on the compatibility of an ECU on an automatic tranny car vs a manual car? I think they are the same and one needs a jumper wire to tell it that there is an automatic in play?? and Has anybody ever heard of the neutral switch? not the neutral safety switch But the neutral switch in a manual transmission.?? BTW He knows about the neutral saftey switch override.

Being from Los Angeleese, I doubt the one you are looking at has rust (??) But all three of mine have severe, like in major, rust on the wheel wells in the bed behind the shock absorber mounts??? I have not see this place mentioned, mine must be weird salt belt models. The drivers chair will be saggin on the door side. easy fix, swap chairs, have your main squeeze lean toward you.

I have heard some guys doing this lately. Thought maybe I'd give it a try. Used the handy man's secret weapon to put a digital recorder on the bumper of my Brat (Snow Worry) and went for a spin in low range. Please let me know if it worked and how about yours? My Brat on a roll

JD since you "don't really want to make a research project out it" The FI system in your car is NOT like the one in the General Junker. There is no cold start injector to go bad. The ECU simply lengthens the duty cycle of the injector pulse width when it sees the engine is cold. as Will says. The coolant sensor may want replaced or it's connector contacts cleaned. You will find this sensor in the goose neck. It has a wired pig tail. Hope this helps

check, it's all about '33'and the bottle

Oh yea, and thanks for all the quick replies. Being relatively new to the board sure is good to see such support, thanks again will let you know what I find out. OPPS wrong thread --sorry

Rox, the Snowman speaks with non-forked tongue. I did a quick search for you, here is an interesting read Turbo on an SPFI car?? Or when you said "blower" did you mean like a "leaf blower"? I took it you ment supercharger like blower. Anyhow, Hope this helps good luck and please keep us updated, more power toya.

The small screw holding the rotor in place is still tight isn't it? You do know the screw I'm talking about - correct? If when cranking to start you see the oil pressure gauge move, this will tell you the driveside belt is still there. This trick is oft forgotten - the belt also drives the oil pump.