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My lame brain says if this were the case, you would see black smoke out the rear when it cleared and the plugs would be black and sooty. Have you looked at them? Maybe the TPS has gone intermitant. Have you tested it?

Here here heep rules these wires are BAM! Thanks Greg Taking Caleb's advise - I'll be keepin' me peepers peeled

Not much help but have you changed the fuel filter lately? and These codes could be false codes set when the engine dies unexpectantly. I would attemp to clear them as per the instructions (simply removing the battery cable will not do this) Then see if any return. BTW you have no "cam postion sensor" only a crank position sensor a.k.a. distributor You can see if the 02 sensor is working by observing the 02 monitor on the ECU while the engine is idling when warm. Like I said, sorry not much help

It is the bar that holds the rear diff in place. Think the throttle cable will strech that far? Wiring to the starter/alt. ect? Very good idea finding one that's been done.

Shean, it's snow worry mate, like my sig. says The more I learn.... I did look up the fusible links for an 83, (sorry earliest FSM I have) there is, as Glen says, a fusible link (FL2 the middle red one, I believe) which does connect the alt to the battery but the ignition is tied to this link and the car would have no juice and not evan try and start. The issue here is Xeon says the car runs for 30 seconds and quits Assumption that it is running out of gas, have you checked for spark when it quits or will it fire right back up (my previous sugg) and then run for another 30 seconds and quit?

I'll take it on faith you have given thought to the mustache bar and the fact that your shifters will be 4 inches lower now? Rad hoses, ect are also "after you get it down/up" issues no doubt.

Caleb, I am sure you pinched the return line from the FPR off to make sure the problem wasn't with it. These are pretty tuff pumps, I'd try a boneyard model.

Sorry Scooby I am afraid you have the word "fuse" confused with the word "fusible link" On our Subarus the fusible links are near the battery, the fuses, on the other hand, can be found under the dash. As for the location of the relay and this mystery fuse?

Trent, I'm sorry I do not know what you are asking when your say "compression settings" The compression ratio for the EA81 in 83 was 8.7 to 1 The compression pressure is 1,177 kiloPascals. (171 psi) Is this what you need? The turbo's of that approx. time delevoled about 7 psi positive intake manifold boost pressure - but these had a lower comp press(ratio) --> 1,079 kPa (7.7) Hope this helps as it sounds like a very interesting project Care to say what fuel system you are using? Suck through carb? MPFI? I have been wanting to do the same thing with my Brumby

Please excuse me for asking but Donald you say I am not sure, but I believe the XT , never came with an EA81 in the turbo or N/A version??

If the thermo switch is working correctly. It should turn the fan on at 199 degrees F. The factory recomended thermostat is a 193 deg F I therefore am confused by Arche's statement as in why would 6 degrees F over the tstat opening be cooking your engine??? Note these references are not from a guess, they are from the FSM

The vibration you describe can also be caused by 1) Bad DOJ, you mention CV but not DOJ 2) loose Tranny and or engine mounts 3) loose wheel bearing

The fuel pump on your car is operated by the voltage regulator. I have never heard of this fail-safe "fusible link". They, the fusible links, are located under the hood by the battery. Your description sounds like the fuel pump gets the initial "run signal" (pumps for a second or so when the key is first turned to the "run" position) and possibly while you are cranking it to start. This is normal and puts some gas in the fuel bowl. BUT once the engine fires the fuel pump control circuit in the VR is not taking over as it should, thus the car runs out of gas in the minute or so you describe. The "sparks" may have let the smoke out of the FPCC (Fuel Pump Control Circuit) I would put a hand on the fuel pump and feel if it's running after the engine fires. Hope this helps

JW, to get back on track somewhat. and to your orig. question. The electric fan on your car will come on automatically. They all have a thermoswitch in the rad tank (pass side about half way down) I have been running my turbo wagons for several years with only the el. fan. BUT These thermo switches carry the entire fan current and are known to burn their contacts, a relay control circuit is a good idea. Here is a good link discussing this aspect of switching the fan. Switching for the el. rad fan Hope this helps get back on track.

Sorry for not being specific. The fabrication I sent you, does not "shorten the shifter" It shortens the throw of the shifter. i.e. how far the shifter moves between shifts Which in this case, may help BTW My Brat had the same problem

You could fix the slop in the shifter and at the same time incorporate the short shifter fabrication I sent you three months ago for the USRM

4by, no rag here, please do yourself a favor and read these two recent posts on the same subject on doing the turbo conversion The 5 speed D/R swap is very easy in comparison. You will need to swap the axles. EA82 convert to turbo Parts need for turbo conversion

Please don't hate me for thinking you have two problems here. First clean or replace all battery terminals and inspect the wire to connector connections on the cables. You may have popped a fusible link also. They are in the small black plastic box fastened to the rad. overflow bottle (must be tested with an ohm meter) Now to the problems One:This is the some what commom bad ignition switch start contacts. This causes the starter solenoid to pull in (the click your hear) but is not passing enough current to pull the relay closed completely. Sometimes the second or third try will "make it". The test for this is to use a jumper wire when in a "click click" mode from the positive battery terminal to the starter solenoid connection. I can email you a picture of where this is if you like. If you find this the case Two solutions are often employed. a) a relay is used to operate the starter solenoid, this relay is closed by the start contacts (they still pass plenty of juice to do this) I can post or email you the wiring diagram for this. a "never fail" push button is installed, pushing it in times of no crank will get it to turn over. Two: you have, for some reason, an intermitant alternator problem or problems. The "all lights on" show you have seen is an indication of no output from the alt. You also speak of an over charge condition. I'd spend 20 bucks for one of these so you can keep a "real eye"on the voltage (13.4 to 14.2 is normal for these) Cigarette Lighter Voltmeter The overvoltage condition can cause other problems from gassing the battery to overvoltage on some electrical componets (from head lamps to the car's brain the ECU) email if you want more detailed explainations of these condiditons Hope this helps.

Yes you will have to change fuel pumps. They both mount in line not in the tank. The fuel line from the pump and the fuel filter and damper will need changed as your's is only for carb pressures not the FI fuel pressure. You car has a return line now, it may be reusable as it only sees the return pressure from the FPR. (see your post on marketplace for some other concerns) You will need the frame cross over under the engine as Andy says. It has a relief for the cross over pipe clearance molded into it. Maybe modify yours with a blue tipped hot wrench or a BFH?? Just one more thing to consider. If you opt for this custom down pipe you speak of, make sure you add a bung for the 02 sensor. You can do this, might not be as simple as it sounds, thats all

Gad ZoiX, for over 6 GWs I sure hope it's a Viton, not simple buna. What do you figure the mark up is on that puppy?

Sir Bard you are correct Unless the wiring to them or the unit itself develops an "open" for some reason. The ECU is looking for continuity (resistance) within a relatively wide range. It only trips the CEL when it sees a resistance way out of spec. Infinity (i.e. an open circuit) is out of range. Hope Korrupt66 answers.

BB I'll take em, email'n ya now

No fuel system is given, so I will assume it's SPFI 1) idle problems in many cases can be attributed to the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. Mounted on the front of the throttle body, this valve controls idle speed via a measure vacuum leak. It is controlled by the ECU and has a shuttle that can get gummed up and cause these symptoms - it can be removed and cleaned with fuel injection cleaner. 2) There is a chance that the FI coolant temp sensor is also causing this problem. 3) diode problems in the alternator will not cause an engine check light, nor will a dirty IAC. If I had to guess, when you get around to checking the error codes you will find a code 34, EGR solenoid. If you care to check your codes here is a very excellent post on the topic Hope this helps ECU Error codes and the EA82 SPFI

Sorry to correct but I believe Andy ment to say cross over pipe, (and he is correct) From reading this and your other post on the topic. You may, your choice here, have some studying to do. I have included a couple posts you may want to read. It didn't appear in your writing that you realized you must put MPFI twin intake port heads on the engine ? (you allude to doing this to the engine in the car first, then the rebuilt freebie) The driverside head is a pretty tuff nut to crack while the engine is in the car. I guess for your 50 bucks you got the heads also? You mention the EA82 in a box, this is the designation for gen III heads BTW. Hope he included the camshafts (they are turbo specific) Please take a little time and read a bit, you will have a better understanding of why so many people have suggested what they have. - don't forget the fuel pump. Good luck, and Hope these help Carb to EA82T Rebuild EA82 & convert to EA82T

Donald may I say you are so wise and an omnipotent master, I bow humbly in your presence. As I am sure you would have Sir Knight also do. Thank you for your kind and knowledgeable words of marked wisdom. May they grace these pages for eternity so we can all benefit from your academician teachings.