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Sure looks toast to me. How long did you drive it with this problem? Looks like the combustion was passing through this cut out. Head gasket went then the hot gases passing through the opening melted the block and the liners? Odd very odd. Wheres Qman? I would like to hear what he says.

Make sure the rotor turns when the engine is cranked. (T belt may have broke) Check for battery voltage on the positive terminal of the coil. Make sure the rotor is tight on the dist. shaft (small set screw may have come out) Note this will only show "no spark" at a spark plug, the coil wire will still show a spark. What year/fuel system type is the RX?

Donald, it is very possible that this is the gentleman's first Subaru. He may not be the the wise sage you take yourself to be. Any manual he has on his car will not tell him it has timing belts that need changed. If left unattended at the prescribed interval, could leave him stopped along side the road. I hope he has not entered the "Trashwagon Zone" so he still has covers on his belts. I am sorry, it sounds like you took offense at me filling him in on some new items this engine has? Perhaps you would like to take up the mantel and do so? I did apologize for assuming.

Sorry GR, I didn't understand all of this in the original post. Real strange all these segments and lights would be burned out. The PC board may be cracked? solder joint loose. Guess a piece of black tape and another inspection station is not in the cards - just until you get it fixed I just hate to see you get it all ripped apart and find the lamps are still good. A used dash would have an incorrect odometer reading. It might be swapable? They are available, and they are normally more reliable than the older digi-dashes. I have one from a 87 automatic GL-10 but it is kinda reserved for my 89 GL-10. Justin Case There is one being dismantled on the 'marketplace"

A hearty "WELL DONE SIR LOIN!!" Congrats and persistances pays, very glad to read it."

Hey Will did you ever give a thought to 2" threaded gas pipe. Els and 45 deg, flanges and nipples. Good heat retention, smooth the insides at the thread junctions with JB weld. Only pipe you would have to have made is the "Y" at the turbo . It's all at your nieghborhood True Value

Have you done a basic coil wire to ground check for spark when it's in a no start? Could it be flooded? And the plugs are now gas fouled beyond firing? Pedal to the metal crank crank crank?? Lots of questions but we are trying

Okay Ted, we are going to assume you checked the ECU for error codes and got the dreaded by some, found by many code 34 This indicates the EGR solenoid not the valve. This solenoid controls the valve, it's wires love to snap like a carrot right at the coil of the solenoid. Follow the rubber hose connected to the canister in the first pict. It will lead you to nirvana (i.e the EGR solenoid) You can use an ohm meter to check it. The coil resistance should be approx 35 ohms, it will probably show infinity. Get a bone yard model, or try and repair the broken wires or pay the piper. now you have read it twice Sure hope this helps

Where is the old carb? Will it start with a shot down the carb thoat? We have to find out if for some reason you and James (when he had this no start problem) are loosing fuel or spark. A shot in the throat and it fires tells us fuel. Then we find out if the fuel pump is ticking Wasn't it running atleast with the old carb? I'll email ya also

Me still wonders if you have a duty solenoid controled feed back carb, with out the controls

Please excuse me Sir Knight. You posted this picture of your car Your Hatchback Which is an EA81 engined car -from the factory. And in the post you said "I have a 89 subaru GL hatchback and I was looking for a conversion kit to change it over from a carb to fuel injection. " We agreed on the last post that you had a hatchback and not a 3 door coupe, as we call the second generation hatchback. Somebody must have swapped engines. And left the carb set up? You must have black plastic timing belt covers spanning the front of the engine then, and now have the worry of timing belts. Please excuse me for "assuming". The turbo set up will requie new heads and the mods outlined. It has been done.

H.sucks, that is a very good idea. The only problem I see that may cause a problem is the duty solenoid is fed a duty cycle signal and not a full battery voltage. I do not know what consequences could result if the solenoid was operated with this voltage for an extended period of time. In either position other than normal you will get a TCU trouble indicator upon start up. The early FT4EAT's I have seen do notall have the 2wd fuse holder behind the pass, strut tower. I assume this is what you mean when you say "I dunno if those have a FWD switch like the Legacies do" as I have never heard of an actual factory switch for this. This fuse puts a battery voltage signal to the TCU which in turn disables the rear drive. This is for dyno testing or situations like you mention. Good thinking though.

Sorry, Donald. it is my understanding that the diff lock switch was only found on the manual transmissions - maybe the ones in Canada are different?? (the tranny is listed in his sig. BTW) and Why would he want to lick his diff??

I agree with Gary, the choke is there and could be used as a test but.. why not use a test light on the connector from the body, find the proper battery feed. It has to be on that connector. Splice a spade connector on the red wire and plug it in. Ground the black wire.

No, if you choose to lock the center in the mode described it will bind on turns if done on dry pavement- this is not recommended. Only use this only on low friction surfaces. Your welcome

Sorry to disagree with Caleb You are only in 4 wd when the TCU thinks one set of wheels is spinning at a different rate. The rest of the time you are in 2 wd only. If you want to be able to manually "shift" into 4wd you need to add a switch that disconnects the signal from the aforementioned Duty Solenoid (DS "C"). This DS controls the rear drive shaft clutch pack hydraulic fluid pressure drain. If it is disconnected the hyd. fluid does not drain and thus the clutch pack locks the rear drive to the front. We have discussed this at length on the New Gen board. If you are interested in pursuing this further, I will get the link for you. Or you are welcome to do a search. Hope this helps

it sure sounds like an ADS problem to me, although I can't make it out in your pict. The red wire no doubt goes to a hot when the key is on source (the choke is a good place) the black needs grounded. I sent you a couple extensive emails, please check them. and if you have time get back to me

GR the speed-0 cable may need removed to get the cluster out, I didn't see this mentioned. Getting it out is not hard but not a picnic either. The shift console on the other hand, is not as difficult. (the coin tray infront ot the hand brake is a snap fit, removing it allows access to the rear console mounting screws) You may want to test the shift light actuator first, strange for those three lamps to all be out. The actuator could have slipped or moved into a position where the gear lever looses contact with as it swings into the D 2 1 position. BTW I found this on another post discussing removing the gauge cluster, thought it might be worth reading. Hope this helps.

The car is only in two wheel drive (one actually -open center diff) until the TCU sees the front set spinning faster than the back, it then drops the signal to the rear clutch pack drain duty solenoid and thus engages the rear drive. I believe this is what you are feeling

Keith is real close. The "Power" light on the 4EAT serves two purposes. 1) As Keith alludes to, it indicates the transmission is in a special mode where it holds each gear to a higher RPM than normal. This mode is invoked by the speed at which the throttle is depressed. Stab the loud pedal quickly and the power light should light. Hold the pedal down and the shift RPM will be increased (I believe it also increases the hydraulic line pressure in the transmission shift circuits) 2) The "Power" light also serves as a check for the operating components of the electronic controls. If the TCU (Transmission Control Unit) detects a problem with one of these controls, it will flash the light upon start up. The TCU can be put into a mode where it will flash the light to indicate the trouble. The "Turbo" light illuminates any time the intake manifold is at a positive pressure. (It also indicates the ECU is in the run rich mode, ignoring the 02 sensor and adding fuel to cool the combustion process. Hope this helps

Excuse me if I am stepping out of bounds. Gregg do you by chance mean TIPtronic? If so... The 4EAT is a very interesting specimen for this type of shifting - as with this transmission all shifting is all done by solenoids and remote control so to speak. Paddle shifters ala F1 anyone?? Sorry for butt heading in

Mr. Knight, very nice to see you back. Here is a pretty good link to the act you would like to follow. EA81 carb to turbo Your car has an EA81 engine. Hope this helps How bout dem Panthers!

Akira is correct, the 4EAT (4 speed Electronic Transmission) has an electronic control unit. The 3AT does not. You could possibly swap the TCU, the wiring, and the speedometer (has a speed sensor in it) I am sorry I do not know if the mounts are the same. But it would bolt to your engine. Sorry not much help

Tcat, sorry a boneyard may be a good place, or one of the guys stripping a car (there is a GL-10 (same switch) being dismantled over on the "market place" right now) You are sure it's the switch? The resistor blocks fail more often. If you have lost the lower speeds it may be this. Here is a link to this problem Resistor block location and problem If you have tested and know the switch is bad, my bad Please disregaurd this statement.

STed, the green connectors are called "test mode" connectors. You probably want the white ones near by, these are called the "read memory" connectors. The error code will be flashed on the 02 monitor LED. This LED is on the end of the ECU which is mounted under the steering column. To see it, lower the trim panel that is above your knees when driving. In the jungle of wires will be the ECU (goldish colored box) The end facing you will have the LED. Here are links to a couple of places with charts and instructions. http://www.westol.com/neper/ecucodes.html http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ (note: please do not be confused at the title on the second link, it is for OBD i cars. And for an excellent write up by Al S. check this link SPFI code check Hope this helps