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Skip

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Everything posted by Skip

  1. Is the car moving when you are pushing the button, or sationary? As you have been told, they will go into 4 wd but the light will not light sometimes. What Donald and Caleb were refering to about the heater controls may be also said "Does the air coming from the vents change when you push the control buttons? If so the since these vent positions are controlled by vacuum and the same vacuum line controls the engagement of the 4 wd this portion of the system is funtioning. Have you checked the fuses for the 4wd system? Fuse #10 and #12 Hope this helps Living in PA also, I understand why you need this feature this winter
  2. Caleb has excellent suggs, and sometimes the car must moved a few feet for it to engage all the way and light the light.
  3. Jelly, your "read memory" (probably white in your case)connectors are above the master cylinder in the hood hinge area. Note the "test mode" (green colored ones) are in this location also I believe. These green connectors must be plugged together to properly set or check the timing?? You said you checked this?? Something does not compute?? One thing you didn't mention is the 02 sensor. Watch the 02 monitor LED on the ECU to see if it's working. On a warm engine it will flash randomly - ---------- no unless it's disconnected it will not set a code in the ECU good luck,hope this helps
  4. Wolfeel, the pan you speak of is only found on turbo cars (maybe MPFI also) it is just a passage way for fumes coming off of the oil in the oil pan so they can be drawn into the PCV system. Look on a turbo car you will see a nipple on the back almost center of the block. This goes into the volume under the pan you question. Under the pan at the bottom you will see an opening into the oil pan. Fumes pass up through the pan and into the PCV system. Hope this helps. Huffamoose??
  5. Wait now wait, we collectively gave you over ten ways to check and correct, I wouldn't call this "outed for life " As for you asking again "How can you trace down the orig problem?" What problem> coolant out of the carb er er throttle body?? Directly out like a fountain? Like when you remove the intake plenum (Al part over the throttle body that has "Subaru Turbo " cast into it) it spews out ?? or weeping out the side as Caleb mentioned. Specific questions get specific answers, you help us - we help you. Kind of a nice arrangement when both side cooperate don't you think?
  6. Me thinks I should answer his question rather than slaming on his description. to wit "How can I be sure its the head gskt?" Ther are many overt signs, a) loss of coolant (not via a leaking hose) bubbles in the radiator seen when the cap is off c) an oil slick on the coolant d) excessive pressure blowing coolant out of the overflow bottle e) milky oil f) exhaust vapor in excess, sometimes smelling sweet g) have a compression test looking for a low cylinder pressure h) have a coolant sytem leak down done. Leave the plugs out, if a cyl gasket is blown - you will know it - if you crank it over after the test. i) look at the spark plugs - often a blown head gasket will steam clean and rust a plug. I'm sure I missed some obvious ones, please help me out guys
  7. I am always learning about these cars. Mark aka XSNRG just learned me a whole bunch, thank you. But I have never heard of an 87 GL-10 with a CARB??? to wit "since coolent is coming out of the carb" Yikes whats next a GL-10 with wind up windows?? John is spot on you may need a radiator - 100 kmi is about it, look at the bottom portion for fin delamination. On the HG "kit" see Brian the Tailgatewagon's post "What do you want out of me " he'll set ya up me bets.
  8. Trogdor sure sound like he has it covered, but You do not mention any noise. a broken CV will let the axle (half shaft) flail around and make an awful racket. The hub could be stripped and be letting the half shaft spin, I think you would hear a racheting sound though. The diff ring and pinion could be toataly toast. You may not hear this. Find what end is not doing any pushing by jacking each end up with a floor jack and gently try to move the car in gear. Then we can get to the bottom of the proper fix. Hope this helps
  9. Two items to check 1) not mentioned yet is faulty or corroded connections on the fuel injection coolant sensor. The resistance of this sensor vs temp is inversely proportional As the temp of the coolant increases the resistance decreases. Now we have corroded connections which add resistance - added resistance means a cold engine - ECU dumps a rich mix and may never go into closed loop. Clean the connections. 2) 02 sensor ground. The ground for older 02 sensors is the exhaust system. Rust and rubber connections can make this see a high resistance, the signal is so small ( < 1V dc) that any resistance will cause problems. I ground mine by connecting a ground wire on the 02 sensor body with a heater hose clamp. The 02 sensor is in the top of the exhaust "Y" pipe. The test for either of these problems is relatively easy. In the boot (trunk) under the passenger side parcel shelf is the ECU. It has an LED on it's face that is called the "02 monitor" Warm the car up, look at this monitor - if all is "ducky" it will be flashing in a non rhythmic fashion with a freq of about once every 3 to 5 seconds. If not - try the above fixes. Hope this helps
  10. AND THE WINNERS ARE Rick O almost Flow M came in first SubeBrat close second and the T-bone hit it right on the cranium. Good job guys. and Good observation skills were demonstrated here, you all get my kudos. the 0 oil pressure was missed by some, oil pressure is independant of the alt. belt. except... The belt shredded and as the bits flailed around, it pulled the spade connector at the oil pressure sender unit apart. Once again well done Sir Loins. Now remind me again, a) why we change belts and put the used one in the boot? why Subaru uses two belts - one for the H20 pump and one for the alt. This could have left it DIW (Dead In the Water) c) and why the Subaru tool kit has a 12 and a 14 mm wrench??? Thanks for the responses one and all.
  11. It has been my experience that it is not the gauge itself but the sender unit. (three different Subes - is all I have for proof) Much easier to change than the gauge and not too salty.(app 20 GWs) It's right beside the oil filter. Make sure you get a sender unit not a switch. Obviously many people will say put in a mechanical gage. I like the factory and if you are worried, get one to calibrate the factory after changing the sender. Hope this helps
  12. Nice link Andy, thanks. Here are a few more for your bookmark folder. Turbo Tech Turbo calculator Lots of good reading by the HomemadeTurbo boys
  13. First off Ed, it is very refershing to see someone that knows the difference between a "short" and an "open" Most folks just say "short" for any electrical anomoly they encounter. Nuff of that. Do you by chance have a trailer light set up on this rig? If so check it for problems. If not you may want to lower the fuse box for a look see. Probably will not help but, hope your lesson in short vs open does
  14. Sorry my post was so misleading. Except for Ed, you guys all missed I said turn on the 4 way flashers Wait a minute do they both use the same flasher?? like my sig. says, I learn stuff all the time, my apology stupid suggestion, hope you find it. Zap will set you up.
  15. Had to dig Willy (87 turbo 5 speed wagon) out today to run some errands. Been buried under a foot of snow for a couple weeks now. Motor to the bank and have to sit for five maybe seven minutes, notice the rad fan light come on. On for a while and off, back on - normal sitting idling operation. Snow worries. Leave bank head for post office, mile down the road dash digital voltmeter says 10.9 v??? Sun glare kept me from seeing the classic Subaru light show stop lamp, brake and charge lights were all lit. Quick look over the other gages all fine but OMG the oil pressure is bageled - big egg - zero??? Knew the answer immediately. Too EZ sorry. Your guess is welcome, answer in 12 hours
  16. The 'Yota MR2 SC is also an option. I am looking for one of those units BTW
  17. Greg, I'll give this a try, but email may be a better alternative Explain the location of the "bango bolt and the copper washers". I am not all that familliar with this engines. Look at my posted link picture, the tube that sprays oil on the cam lobes is secured to a cam tower but this bolt. The "banjo" should have a copper washer on both side of it. So, you are saying that a pump reseal should do the trick? I allready replaced the o-ring and the mickey mouse gasket, but I did not replace the seal on the shaft. I didn't know about it. It is an important seal and must be replaced, air can be drawn in and embelised in the system. If you do not have the cash to replace the pump, all seals must be addressed. I don't want to put the blame on the oil pump because the lfter noise is only real bad on the drivers side. What is your thoughts? My thoughts is -er -er are, the pump must be totally resealed and all passage ways open and sealed from spewing externally. It could possibly not be the little o-ring under the cam basket? ?? "It could possibly be not"?? . Any profuse spewing is a volume pressure loss/drop and must be delt with. Yes, it could possibly be not? BTW Did you use any silicone sealer when you assembled this?
  18. Adam, you may want to contact Donald (a.k.a. M.F.) I believe he tried this swap by rewelding the brackets on the cross member
  19. Q, are you thinking he may have a 3.7 LSD rear with a 3.9 front? If this is the case would the clutches in the LSD slip enough to allow the vehicle to roll?? Little off topic but until Mitch tells us this is not his 92 Silverado I would just like your thoughts.
  20. In the original post Jake says "The interior is leather. " What old generation Subaru has a leather interior? Do not use ArmorAll on the leather - seals the pores and can cause crazing (small cracks) use the proper leather cleaner and "food" After all it is an organic material and must be fed. This advertisement for "LEXOL" is purely coincidental I think Jake left us for a Jeep forum
  21. Caleb, thanks for the clarification of CTS. And to further clarify it's the wiring to the two identical pressure switches not the hoses. Simple test of this is to look for the "TURBO" light. If it lights at the correct time, well then the FPR and a FP test is in order.
  22. Greg, before getting all ripped apart, you might want to check the copper washers on the banjo bolt for the pressure relief valve. If the bolt/washers are leaking pressure into the cam case, the lifters may not see enough pressure to pump up properly. You said you did reseal the pump but only found one 0 ring? There is a seal behind the pulley did you change that? There is also one behind the outer rotor. And I take exception to mdjdc remark to wit: a simple pump change I looked at the cars in his sig. and if these are the cars he is referring to, something is wrong with his statement. Tearing the entire front off of an EA82 is not a simple job. Atleast as far as my hands are concerned, maybe to his wallet it is? Couple this with the number of guys that have said a replacement of the pumps 0-rings and MM pump to block 0-ring, vs an entire new pump, well his I think, his wallet is talking again. Please MD - do not take this as any form of slam on your techniques, some of us do not have the wherewithal to throw copious quantities of money at our cars and must run CAP (Cheap As Possible) Therefore I apologize for my comments.
  23. Well not one to put much faith in a company that should stick to making underware (Haynes) How about turning on the 4 way flashers, listen for the click under the dash, me bets the TS flasher is close by, may evan be swappable for a test. Sorry if this CS** test fails for I am but a grasshopper. **Common Sense
  24. So during all this swappin and such, lets say, the boost cut pressure switch gets inadvertently plugged into the turbo light switch harness. Now when the turbo out put causes the intake manifold to go positive, instead of the light lighting the ECU (CTS????) thinks it's over boosting and engages the fuel cut map. Probably would happen about 2500 RPM. And fits with your statement "i took the car to a REAL MECHANIC and he verified that something is shutting off the injectors at 2300RPM. we agree that it occurs as the turbo is starting to do its job. " Why do you call it a CTS? Computer Timing System?? Did you keep the knock control unit? Do you have access to an Air fuel ratio meter. Has anyone messed with the internals of the flapper door and it's spring and potentiometer? How do you like doing homework?
  25. Brandy, Welcome to THE Subaru board, but you will have better luck if you check with Brett and his Backyard Boys, your neck-0-da woods so to speak. P.S. I moved the other post to the market place. Backyard Boys Forum
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