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John thanks for the compl. as for other perf. mods I run a elementary H20 injection system and have a Bosch cold start injector triggered by an adjustable pressure switch (8 psi) The exhaust is my twin tube down pipe @ 2.5" with only a high flow cat as a silencer. My intake is a large K&N mounted in between the plastic inner fender and the inner fender (also has temp probe). The MAF to turbo pipe has been eliminated and a mandrel bent tube put in it's place. It would be great to find a dyno as I am an empirical kind of guy. I have temp probes in my throttle body as well. Speaking of which, I see allot of people going on and on about the fuel delivery or lack there of. Where is the justification for all this hoopla?? No one to my knowledge has put a proper wide band 02 meter on one of these and checked what the stock air fuel ratio is when blowing say 15 PSI. I will have an EGT soon but this still is not a substitute for a wide band. I'll take the money you guys spend on the MS system and buy a wide band. Then lend it to the guys that are brave enough to go with the MS. My bet is you'll be the first. If we are going to bark up a tree, it should be the correct conifer. Meet ya at the dyno

The othe alts listed would be the same ampere out put. The XT6 affords a 90 A and without Marks 120 A conversion atleast equals the GM. We need to find cars that have the same alt as the XT6. Qman is correct on the XT6 (in the conversion article I wrote, I shaved a small amount off of the front ear just to make my belt line up better.) No other steel plate is needed. The wiring is a plug and play, and as for the main lead connection the stud on the XT 6 alt is larger in diameter. I solved that with a pair of wire cutters on the connector eye as seen below. A "proper" pulley can be had from a Mazda if you do not want to make a spacer. I do not know what model -sorry. Hope this helps.

Andy, did you make sure there is an intake manifold connection at the FPR? If it has no connection from the intake manifold, it will not increase the fuel pressure, could be just not enough pressure?? Did the mechanic test the fuel pressure? OR how about the two pressure switches for the ECU being reversed?? The high pressure switch where the low pessure one and visa versa? This is a vane style MAF correct? Just some random thoughts

The pressure switch for turning on the turbo light is located in front of the pass. side (American speak) strut tower. Some people may try and tell you it does more than just light the light, my experiments say no. Just the light. Here is what the switch looks like, check it's connection and it's operation.

Well Dan, you do not seem overly concerned, ask Mike for the FSM and look up how to get the TCU to tell you what solenoid/sensor is not making the trip. I doubt it will leave you DIW (Dead In the Water) butya never know, if the hydr. system pressure goes totally toast, you atleast have a knowledgeable service center to replace the unit. As always, sorry I couldn't help and good luck

I also like running the PCV system through an auxiliary filter, this keeps any blowby not controlled by the PCV system from feeding into the carb/primary air filter. An air cleaner assembly off of a small gas engine works great. What about the AIS plumbing?? My server can not access the gallery so maybe I missed it

I wish I knew what was wrong with my car. Dog gone!! I never run any more than 89 pump octane, I have the boost cranked up to the limit of my turbo's eff. (14 PSI manifold) I advanced my timing to 25 BTDC (idle switch closed and green connectors connected). I run it up to 6000 RPM almost daily, (pulls like a freight train easily to 7 if I let it). I'll be diked if I can get evan the slightest ping or pre-detonation of of it. Come on guys help me out. I do have an IC but maybe I should just dump this antiquated and out of date worthless fuel injection system and spend a couple hundred on something that will require tuning and new sensors and wiring and assembly and and and. Sheesh, what is the matter with me. BTW note: this sarcasm was not called for

sure sounds suspiciously like a non OEM Subaru thermostat. But then again 20 board members with the same problem/fix could be wrong

MD speaks of the Antarctic endangered species i.e. the gally seal so he must know what he's talking about. Wouldn't it be great if people learned to use the "preview" feature?

See below for this "engine in the car" addressable item Lifter Gallery pressure control You guys POO POO this , don't use this, must use this??? Did the fiddler leave the building??

Caleb is correct, it is electronic, but it does more than hold 1st gear, it also modifies the hydraulic line pressure in the transmission control circuits. The TCU (Transmission Control Unit) is programed to force a shift if a certian RPM is exceeded. This puppy has many sensors and solenoids to control it's operation. Let it cool off over night and see if it returns. Heat is a killer of these trannys, Subaru may have known this and that is why it has an over temp light (ever seen one on another make automotive tranny?) cross your fingers. If a duty solenoid or other sensor has failed, the "POWER" light will flash upon start up. This is the TCU's way of telling you something is knackered. The FSM shows a way of getting the error code from the TCU. You may want to post over on the New Gen board as they have many many more 4EATs than we old schoolers do (thus the "put it in low range" comment) A power flush of the tranny fluid would probably be an ounce (well few liters) of prevention but too late for a cure. Sorry, you probably have not read this far, but I hope it explains some things.

You have one of the classic cases of a voltage regulator gone toast. The over voltage is going to take it's toll on the charging diodes and you will be left chargeless. I ate 6 normal alts before converting (too many lights and too thick a skull). Works great now. The hot set up these daze seems to be the GM alt conversion. You will find it through a simple search. The XT6 conversion is covered in the repair manual xt6 alt conversion Hope this helps and beside burning out lamps from over voltage your electronics may not like it either. (assuming here you have a fancy radio and do not have an ECU)

I run 20w/50 Castrol GTX with half can of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) all year long. BUT please read what others say What will quiet my lifters

to quote my man "What would you compare an XT to? a TR 7 a Honda Qualude a BMW 8 series a lump of melted ............ Subarus built butt ugly and made to stay that way Sorry I do not agree the beauty is in the eye....

Ah Sir Xforxlifex, I did a small search (please excuse me I didn't know we had archives) But I turned up this that may be of some help. The junk yard you pick will kinda dictate what you pay. So with further ado or smart remarks Hope this helps and Thanks to Tex and especially Corky 5 lug conversion

I am going to assume ( and I hope I speak for Craig also) that you have looked for massive vacuum leaks AND have verified the timing is close to 10 deg BTDC What did the plugs look like BTW (white black tan?)

As I said the gear has 90 wt but the other parts are controlling and therefore covered in ATF

I sent you an email if it doen't make it due to recent problems, I need your new email to send you some picts.

I like the plugged cat theory put a vacuum gage on it and see if it falls while holding a steady 3000 RPM. and I do not know why you are not changing the rear fuel filter? It is the primary filter, it catches all the junk coming out of the tank - first line of defence first to get plugged I do like GD's sugg about the secondary barrel, see it it will open manualy, (you will have to hold the primary open to allow the secondary to be pushed open. see if the diapgragm that operates it is bad. Lastly the power valve in the carb could be stuck shut. I don't agree with the "if it revs at idle the fuel system is okay" - no load reving does not take much gas IMHO Lots of homework. Good luck atleast you have some other ideas now.

I second what Craig says on all counts. Pull the plugs, are they wet with gas?? if not, more gas in the throttle body with a good battery - good spark good battery - gas and no fire in the hole = Ig timing is off due to a jumped drivers side T belt. Comp test or timing light will prove/disprove this. JMLBG (Just My Lame Brain Guess). By the way, follow the rubber tube connected to EGR valve back to the solenoid, flex the wires right at the solenoid. What happens? Louis has a fix if this is it.

JoAnne, the code you got is for the EGR solenoid not the valve. This is a very very common problem but will not cause a no start. Check the coolant sensor connections (it's a pig tail coming off of the goose neck) If you want to test this theory, lift the intake plenum and shoot a small amount of starting fluid in the throttle body. If it fires the ECU does not know the engine is cold and is not fattening the mixture. Hope this helps.

Hey guys lets reread what James says, although he may have left the building? "sounds like the noise is coming from front of engine below a/c comp. could it be water pump? I am the trusting type so I believe him, lifter clack could be transmitted up there but on my Subies it comes more from the side of the engine. He could have a very loose timing belt (idler on the drivers side belt ghone toast?), could have a H20 pump suffering premature failure (arf arf 100000 factory defect). If I were him I would use a mechanic stethoscope, or a piece of garden hose or long screw driver stuck in my ear, and isolate where this noise is coming from. Then we can all put on our Air Jordans and jump to the proper conclusion.

Gabe, if your still reading, was yours worn like the one Meeky showed? The reason I asked is mine (I wrote the USRM article) would not "just slide out " Shame on me for thinking, it always gets me into trouble But could what ever holds the gov to the plate that has the 8 mm bolts get loose and allow the gear to mesh improperly thus causing the coring? Mine shows no signs of this wear pattern and I had to remove said bolts to remove the unit. I do not think it makes a diff but mine was a turbo. Plus I also stand (sit) corrected, it appears that the drive worm gear is in the diff (makes sense) and that end would have gear oil on it. The main operational part where the cleaning and deburring take place are in ATF these are separated by the seals seen clearly in Meeky's picture. Just a thought and some miscellaneous rambling by an old fart, please return to your normal channel at this time.

This is normally assosiated with the FI coolant thermosensor. I did a quick search for you http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/search.php?s=&action=showresults&searchid=35023&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending You might try another with "coolant thermosensor", quite a common problem

Gabe, are we talking about the same part -pictured below? As this statement is very confusing to me one each one i've change has had atf which it's not suppose to They work by controling the flow of the AFT, that's what my FSM says. Please explain and correct me if I am mistaken