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Teas, you are missing the "Pulser assembly" The AC control unit watches the revolutions of the compessor and will shut the system down if they do not agree with the engine RPM. Keeps the system from burning up a belt should the compressor lock up. Any how here is a picture of what you are missing, note please the wire colors are red and green with a white stripe on my car. Hope this helps. Skipout

Sorry Setright I think if you take the time to read the filter study you will find Purolater (the manufacturer for FHI as you say) does indeed use an antidrain back valve as quoted " a nitrile rubber diaphram-type anti-drainback valve, which doubles as the seal between the backplate and the cartridge." Our cars DO need the anti drain back valve. I do not believe it has anything to do with the mounting orientation of the filter, I may be wrong but the antidrain back keeps our oil galleries full, esp the lifter galleries. BTW The guys that don't fill there oil filter are just too lazy or too spastic to do it, I pre fill mine every time I change oil. I loose maybe an oz. but it is worth it to me so that my upper oil lubed parts do not see an air bubble (again the lifters come to mind)

Many of you may remember the study done on oil filters (cutting them in half comparing filter media, anti drain back valves ect) The site has been moved and it does take some time to read, but if you are interested in it here it is http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/

NV, sure sounds like the choke pull off wants adjusted. It may be pulling the choke open too far on intial start up Do you have a manual that has the specs for this item?

Chris here is another place to check. They look for the best deals ect. on car shipping http://www.shipvehicles.com/

Tony, did you change the rad cap also? They are special for overflow systems. My Brat does not have an overflow (funny thing just today, I was thinking of adding Ol'Tw's to it ) I do not think it should be dumping that much out of the over flow. If you fill it to the rim, it will dump some and seek a level and should hold there. Could you mount the jack in the spare tire?

Ah CFreak, did you notice it says ej 18T? Their website covers a lot of ground (lot of 2.5RS stuff) and has an email address if you are interested

All good info but hey guys, Mike says on his first line I just finished installing a new clutch and pressure plate on my 2wd 92 loyale" I hate to say it but my check mark goes beside the wrong clutch disc. Qman's stripped hub spline must be the first thing checked though.

I humbly thank you Sir Alexandr

Jay, the hemo's were a Bill Putney trick. He was the man, haven't seen from him in a while. On your zip tie trick, I would be a bit worried after it's been on there a while and maybe the system gets a bit hot and the pressure builds and thats a bad time to have a hose come off. Can't you get a worm style clamp on there, and tighten it with a 1/4" socket? Your call, I have seen zip ties get brittle with heat

Setright is correct on the filling the filter, you must fill it a couple times to get it full, it does take a bit of time to soak into the filter pleats. But he is talking about newer Subarus, ours sit in a horizontal position and you have to quick, still a good idea, esp on a turbo. Clean the area where the drain plug seats and if you can get a new Aluminum washer (don't forget it's there and drop it in the drain pan) I have reused them but it is better to replace it. The torque wrench is your friend, too loose and it could fall out - too tight and well it could strip on the way out next time. 18 ft lbs The drain plug is 17 mm an 11/16 will work in a pinch. Capacity is 4 liter which works out to be about 4.5 quarts. The oil filter only needs to be hand tight but I usualy give it an 1/8 turn more with the strap wrench. Hope this helps and if I missed something I am sure someone will chime in.

Yes Teas, you are correct a ground, in this case, is a ground, your newer car could have been set up a bit differently. Remember the Black 12 AWG wire from the fusible link box goes directly to the battery positive terminal. Email me or post back if you find out anything tonight.

The fuel pump on my 1985 Brat is located on the driver's side under the bed just behind the cab. They are controlled by a Fuel Pump Control Unit and only pump while cranking to start and when the engine is running. (If the engine fails to fire, the pump will operate for approx 2 seconds after releasing the key) Here is a picture that was shot holding the camera at the driver's side rear wheel, shooting forward at a slight upward angle.

The resistor block you seek is beside the blower motor under/behind the glove box like you said. The resistor coils sit in the path of the blown air so you will not see them until the block is removed. It is easier if you remove the trim panel under the glove box door. Two of the three mounting screw are obvious, the last is one of the blower mount bolts. The 4 wires to the block are blue (three of which have trace colors) Hope this helps, here is what it will look like after the panel is removed

Okay, lumps hangin from my backhoe bucket printed your response and went to have a look one heavier gauge wire by itself...not like a battery cable but maybe 16 gauge. So if I understand you, that one should go the pos terminal. Yes a large maybe 12 AWG black wire runs from the fusable link box to the positive terminal of the bat. (A larger maybe 10 AGW white wire goes from the fusable link box to the alt) There was a long thin black wire (smaller gauge, 22 perhaps?) that I think came out of one of the big looms that emerge from the side of the body between the fusible link and the battery This wire is as Doom says. It connects under the same bolt as the black and yellow and hits a single wire connector before it goes into the harness in the location you describe. You can have all of this white chit - sorry for the delay - a whiteout hit had to get the hoe and lump in the shed Hope this helps, hittin the showers for some real calorie injestion

I am in the process as we type in yanking da lump on an 87. Came in to grab some BTUs. 1) Where the black with yellow is there is another black wire under the same nut on the water pipe bracket. 2) There is a fat black (main battery cable) under one of the starter bolts. This one runs with the red from the battery, doubt it is the one you are refering to. 3) There are a couple black wires going to the rad core support infront of the battery. 4) The black box you refer to is the fusible link box I believe, is it secured to the overflow bottle? They are all positive battery connections. One should run over to the alternater. Hope that helps if not post back or email me, I'm going back out into the blizzard now. I'll check back in a bit. Try to descibe where the wire comes from.

Mitch, everybody's will be different, unless they use the exact same IC setup as yours. If yours holds steady at 7 with the gauge Tee'd into the intake manifold, then move the gauge Tee to the nipple at the turbo outlet. Mine drops app. 1.5 PSI Hope this helps

I wonder if the tailgate will stay up with those 6x9s in it? Broom stick needed here?

Jeff, the gas you used to prime the pump could have been burning in the cat - have you driven it yet? Kind of to flush things out. When you hot wired it, did you hot wire the choke also? If not maybe the choke did not open? Again looking for rich running. The Air Injection System is the way an early Sube engine injects the extra air (oxygen) into the exhaust so the unburned gasses in the cat can oxidize rapidly (i.e. burn) No 02 and no oxidation. The pipes right at the exhaust ports lead to reed valves. These are fed air from an air cleaner and this pumps air into the exhaust. The silencer in this system is known to melt down if the reed valves fail. I did a search for AIS* here is a sample http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5549&highlight=AIS%2A Hope this helps

Well Russ thanks for chiming in here. Was that book Corky Bell's book "Maximum Boost" by chance? A very good point you make on waste gate size. The upper RPM thing also makes sense, could be the waste gate was not designed to dump that much exhaust gas at these elevated flow rates, thus enough gas still is passing through the turbine to let the boost pressure build. Will I'm sorry this does look like you are right and I am wrong. I will have a look at one of the turbos I have on the shelf and see if there is a way to make them open more. Once again Will I'm sorry for doubting you

exister, you say "The 4WD lever is really hard to put back in 2WD after driving around in 4WD for a while." This tells me you are running the 4wd on dry pavement and or with mismatched tires and are suffering from the transfer case being bound up. (One way to ease this is to reverse the vehicle about 20 or so feet) If you drive with mismatched tires (you should have same brand, size, and wear amount front and rear) maybe the tires slipping to release this bind has caused the rubber smell? If you drive on only snow covered roads does it still smell?

1 I, does the engine seem to be running rich? Carb dumping ect? An overly rich mix will allow excess gas to pass to the cat where it will be burned if the AIS is working (which it sounds like it is) Did you have to "prime" the carb to get it fired?

Why thanks Ma. And taking your sugg. is why I created this thread. That site has a wealth of info for us car nutz. Did ya peek at the DIY tool section? http://www.carcarecouncil.org/DIY_tools.shtml Nice list of emerg. eq. there. That could be a thread on it's own. Something like that was on the "Off Topic" board I believe.

As I said, you will do as you will, Will. But something tells me mine flows as well as yours, and mine sits at a seady 12 PSI. You say "and ive checked the wastegate actualtors. they are fine. Did you put a Mity Vac type tester on the WG control diaphram and see it hold pressure? BTW A small split or crack in a line to the WG will also cause this problem. Maybe the radical right turn at the top of your pipe, is causing the exhaust to bounce back keeping waste gate from opening -nah. At any rate, I firmly believe the problem is not "Too much flow!" Skipout

The idea here is to add a rad fill port (i.e rad. cap) plus a bit more coolant volume. The heater hose is not a bad idea (the one running under the intake is the return hose to the H20 pump) I don't know how many Jaguar XJ 6 Series III s there are in boneyards over there, but they have an excellent tank/cap/hose set up. Which would fit nicely on the inner fender behind the battery. Hope this helps.