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I recently needed a new fuel pump for my Weber equipped Brat. I took to lookin and found a Facet solid state electric pump I had been using on an A.H. Bugeye Sprite. popped it in, seems to be working fine. I learned the aviation guys use them so they must be somewhat reliable?? quote "these are the ones recommended by Rutan Aircraft Factory" And Burt knows which side of an airfoil goes up!! ~30 bucks, and an easy mount. BTW NAPA sells a similar model. have a look see if you care Facet solid state el. fuel pump

Snow hurry, snow worry on the manuals mon. Take your time and cut the right deal, we have faith inya. Is that number not listed, and that's why you are guessing? Like I said no hurry

We finally got some warmer weather and I was doing some "pre-spring" shed cleaning. Well, I came across this bit of NOS. My parts manuals are still on loan so could somebody please identify this grill. I'd like to use it on my '82 Hatchback? #81.4 B0712 7910 23080 Thanks in advance for any help in this matter.

First off thanks for all the kewl comments, guys. Russ, "are you using the stock WRX bypass valve?" Yes sir, it came on my IC and I plan to plumb it back into my MAF to turbo intake pipe. If you have seen the setup I use, it looks like this, putting a nipple into the pipe is easy "so you are going to use a stock up pipe?" No I am fabricating one from the jig I got from Witte, who also provided the idea/parts for the intake pipe. "I would be willing to work on a nice mandrel bent X over/up pipe. thats what I have in mind for mine." Way kewl, lets talk about this, I have access to a hyd. bender but it is not a manrel bender and am very open to any ideas. Will, thanks, since you are going the TD04 route it will be an interesting comparision when you have it set up. Please post pictures. Paul, Rob says it all, it was my alternator/electrical repair bench I believe. Rob, thanks, the kewlest setup is the twin turbo for a Supra, got them all on the cheap. One is a Garrett Air Reseach but mesurements show it a bit smaller than the VF 11. GD, you are welcome to "come play" anytime I am sure your shop is just as interesting, and alot less crowded with junk Thanks again for all the replies

I may be mistaken but I seem to remember on my EA82, two of the H20 pump mounting bolts were obscured by the driver's side rear timing belt cover? Promting me to ask at the time.... has anyone drilled access holes in the cover so it would not have to be removed next time. Please correct me if I am mistaken.

Snowman, that is a great comment "Do I count as a soob addict if I "just happen to have" an FSM sitting within reach of my computer chair?" Prompted me to post I'll show you mine if.... Obviously, I vote "yes"

GD you say "pretty good looker I think" In spades mate!!! Nice snag, I say fix it, flush it and fire it. Keep an eye on the oil pressure, if the big end bearing went toast, it will show up there. Finding an engine is easy, finding a "looker" like that... impossible almost on this coast. Congrats and good luck.

Torxx, yes it is an electrical switch. SPDT (has contacts on both sides - pushed down one set closes, when released (up position) another set is closed.) It could be used for fog lights, ejection seats, whatever. The current rating for the switch is probably pretty low as it only controls the vacuum solenoids in a 4wd car. It would be excellent for controling the relay for your driving/fog lights. The wire to it can be found under the gear shift console. I can give you the wiring diagram / wire colors if you need. Hope this helps

Thanks and props given to Scoobie Steve. I finally got my Legacy VF11 - 60 kmi old = real tight. (60 GWs + S&H - thanks for the tip Steve) So I have it next to one of my EA82T turbos. Took a couple picts and will detail the differences in dimension if any one is interested. Here is the side by side showing the turbine output side, VF 11 on right. They are sitting in the same position as they would be installed. note: because of the waste gate position, the output, without alterations, is "clocked" as close to normal as it can be positioned. The bosses for the connector to the intake hose from the MAF is the same. As is the opening diameter. Here the output side is displayed, this is also different from the EA82T and it has been told will match up with a WRX dump pipe. The side not shown is the X-over pipe connection, two mounting holes line up and the third. as Dennis has noted earlier, is a dremel adjustment (~0.375") from fitting onto the factory X-over flange. This will be going on my RX along with the 272 higher profile Delta cams, spider man. my normal intake, dump pipe, WRX IC and new custom X-over, ala Witte's setup. As always, all comments are welcome and appreciated. I hope this gives some insight as to the differences in the two similar but different units. for the Moosens's sake, I tried to not make it look like a "shop class" photo.

Just a few words on turbo charging. The turbo unit is an exhaust gas drive air pump. You could call it a compressor of sort. It pumps air into the engine and in doing so increases the air pressure in the turbo's tract, which includes the intake manifold and ultimately the combustion chamber. In doing so it increases the DENSITY of the air. Now DENSITY in simple PHYSICS terms, is defined by the mass divided by the VOLUME. The VOLUME DOES NOT CHANGE. (unless some one has somehow "INVENTED" the variable displacement Subaru engine, hey they are in developement.) Repeat, there is no VOLUME change. Simple math then tells us that the MASS of air pumped in must increase. Back to our simple PHYSICS. Combustion is defined as rapid OXIDATION. To "oxidize" something we need, yep you guessed it, oxygen. Since air is made up of approx. 21 % 02, when we increase the mass of air entering, yep we also increase the MASS of 02. Add fuel and burn it rapidly. SIMPLE PHYSICS, .... but now we find swirl factors, next thing you know the head to block junction comes in to play as a "squish zone". The spark plug position and ignition spark timing along with the head design all must be examined when considering the flame front PROPAGATION, but this is all just SIMPLE PHYSICS. The higher compression a car starts with the higher efficiency on and off boost. Deal with the simple physics and have a more drive able car when not blowing the snot out of it. And a more power car when you do. But remember it's just simple physics. >>>>>>>>side note on modifying the intake manifold, as you now doubt know the EA81T head is a single port intake. The multiport fuel injection engines have the injector positioned to fire on the back of the intake valve. Thus the bosses on an EA81T head and the placement of the injectors on the intake on an EA82T (which is a twin port intake) Just something to consider if you choose the manifold mounted injector that was suggested. Must be something with the simple physics once again??

Sorry Partsman, good call, but the Ig Amp was introduced with the hot wire FI systems in late 86, 87. Car's that have the crank angle sensor dist. have the ig amp. His car has an igniter distributor. XT Collector, if the coil Patti suggs does not do the trick, your car does have an external knock control unit (inner fender behind the battery) it may have something to do with the weak spark as it is wired to the the coil + the other side of the coil is wired to the ignitor in the distributor . Also check for battery voltage on the coil positive terminal with the key on. Have you by chance checked the ignition timing?

Qman is correct, they closed today thru (2/26) for a much desevered 2 week vacation

Sorry guys, Me thinks he is confusing the CAS with something else. Maybe the knock sensor? Care to share where this part is on the engine?

Shean, did you read what Caleb said? You have to change the heads, yours are single port, MPFI are twin port. Might as well grab the cams while you are at it.

Sorry pablo, I do not mean to challendge your knowledge of carbs, but the anti diesel soleniod does not work the way you descibed. I believe it shuts the fuel flow off to the idle circuit, thats why it can not "run on". I got this from studying a blowup picturs of a Hitachi. As for your problem, sure sounds like the age old problem with the Hitachi (which you have - unless someone changed the manifold and carb) this problem is worn throttle shaft bushings. Sorry replacement carb seems to be the easiest fix

When driving the vehicle in question does the "HEIGHT" button light flash? If so, the air susp control unit can be put into diagnostic mode. The same light will then flash a series flashes. Decode the series and it will tell you what component is not with in spec. My advise, if you plan on keeping this, is to get your hands on a FSM. I'm on your side, they are nice, but they are also somewhat complex. Trouble shooting can be done with nothing more than a DMM, pressure gauge and the all important, FSM. I'm sure Steve will Unicycle you down the path to glory

I will try to answer this with out trampling too much you ask: arent you the guy that was runing around with no thermostat, to keep the pressure in the coolant system down? Last summer (ambient temp approx 80-90 deg F, 20-40% RH) I was running with no tstat, I had two digital lab thermometers with thermocouples, one in the coolant and one in the oil. This was an experiment to see if running with no tstat would cause higher temps (and pressures as a direct result of higher temps). It was to learn first hand if the no tstat => overheat was an old wives tale. My particular test showed the myth busted. The oil came up to temp just as fast (this was a turbo'd car) and remained lower overall as did the coolant temp. I did not off road this car, and most travel was done on medium speed highways. No mechanical fan was on the engine. Rad was approx 20 kmi old. You say: you said alot about how this is an inherant problems with our engines, so a few degrees here or there is a big deal We do have an inherent problem with cooling our cars if the radiator is allowed to suffer fin delamination, turbo cars are more suceptible but all need this matter observed and dealt with. Esp. during the summer months. And you ask are ea81s and ea82 thermoswitches not different? physically yes, EA81 are single stud and EA82 have twin spades, same threads for the tank mounting. as for switching temps both the 83 and 84 FSM I have here say for the EA81 thermoswitch on --- 203 + - 3.6 deg F off ----196 + - 3.6 deg F pretty close to the Ea82 I posted earlier. Sorry to get so far off topic again, JWX is taken a beatin'

This has been mentioned so I will not reiterate. It had the Suby Stealerrship fooled/stumped near me. Guess they forgot the old Subies had these, good luck. I'd atleast try another coil bracket

My fault I should have not confused the issue. Glen, I believe since he has an 81 he has no Fuel Pump Control Unit, these were in cars after they went to the alternators with the built in voltage regulators (83 through ? intro of FI) His fuel pump control is handled by the external voltage regulator. This era 81,82,83 has some strange ways of controlling the fuel pump. We need a definitive chart, as was purposed before, to refer to when these problems crop up

I post the facts. If you want to post your casual observations, fine. Just do not state them as facts. BTW the coolant mix also extends the boiling point as well, and my EA82T fan comes on a little past half way on the gauge.

This guess comes to you from reading about it happening here on the board... The auto parts store (NAPA?) may have given you an alternator with a built in voltage regulator. You put it in the the parking lot and... as I said this has happened. Please reread my original post about why it is starting and then dies. I will not hazard a guess about I was pulling it out when a big blue spark came shooting at my face. a message from Pleiades?? I do not know how serious you are about keeping it stock but maybe a rewire for 83 or newer with a internal VR is in the cards. The FPCU (Fuel Pump Control Unit) from a newer model would be ness. if you wanted the fail safe fuel pump control.

SS here is a link I think will answer your question. This resistor block runs speeds 1 through 3 Speed 4 by passes the resistor block. Hope this helps Blower resistor block

Snowman if you do care to do this here is a descrpition of the socket you requested (see Bill P's post) retorque tool Here is a a picture .Hope this helps some and the dimensions of the socket before mods

No I haven't hope some of this helps and your welcome Skipout

Rox, the smoke from this may be visable in the rear view mirror, and smoke from this would be black (rich cond), worn engine smoke is normally blueish white (oil ). BTW (Should be a plug wrench in your Suby tool kit if it's still in the car.) Here is a link I found doing a quick search for you using "TPS" Please feel free to try a more in depth search if you care. I am very sorry but I have no idea what you mean when you say "and does it require one of the new cover sheets?" SPFI and the TPS