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a loose timing belt on the driverside will cause the distributor drive gears to click (could cause the timing to vary also) May be the reason behind the accell decell change. Heat shields also will rattle like this.

negative Jimbo just the one by the master cylinder. and a sock on the tank pickup Maybe post a new thread detailing the situ

Few questions, couple answers "But it still has a bad stumble." Most often caused by a bad accelerator pump in the carb. A can of Seafoam (avail. at any quality auto parts) has been known to work miracles - takes a hundred miles or so though. "The EGR dash light is on, What triggers the EGR light?" The EGR light is triggered by a mileage counter (60 kmi). To reset it look above the fuse box after removing the trim panel. There will be three odd colored connectors. Two will be plugged together one will be loose. Unplug the two and plug the other into the proper end. SHAZAM no EGR light. "but there doesn't appear to be an ECU anywhere?" Normally there is not one on this model. Look for a 02 sensor Remember - - No 02 = No ECU "I can hear odd noises coming from the air baffles going to the exhaust, but disconnecting them didn't seem to help." Well now you have a open can of worms - this generally means the reed valves in the AVS system are toast. (try a search for "AVS" you'll see what I mean) If not dealt with the baffles as you call them (silencers) will melt and plastic will be ingested by the carb - - not pretty this may have happened and is the reason for the stumble. Use an electric torch and look down the carb throat for signs of black plastic debris. Note this can also lead to jammed open throttle plates not a good thing - BTDT Hope this helps somewhat.

I do not know the validity of this but I was told at the east coast show that one dealer per state got a Brat cart in 78 as a promotional tool. By my lame calculations that would make 50 units (possibly 48) in existence. Well we know where four are. (Moosens has contact with one in a shop)

remember, as with most electrical systems on a Subaru - it's a ground controlled system This means the blower motor has battery positive voltage any time the key is in the run position. The switch and the resistor block control the ground or negative side of the motor. As Calebz correctly states (an item missed by many) The switch by passes the resistor block in high speed. It puts full ground on the motor. I would pull the motor/squirrel cage down and have a look for quests that may have built a home there. Do this after checking to see if battery voltage is present.

Welcome to the good ship USMB May your stay be long and pleasent. On the brake drums - if it's 2 wd I have a set for cheap email me. On the clutch cable, it is an odd arrangement. The "anti roll back" better known as "the hill holder" cable and unit contain the return spring. Hope somebody has a picture, mine is hiden by my intercooler. Routing the cable under the steering column is the only way it should go. What Bucky says about the lifters is gospel - listen to her. For the shifter slop, if you have read any of the EA81 fixes, the EA82 has a similar "barrel" connection. It can be the main source of the slop, same fix is employed. The bushings may also be toast, lift the console or crawl under - your eyes will not lie. If you are going to love and live with this cutie, a factory service manual should be on you Xmas wish list. Haynes - should stick to making underwear Chitons - should be spelled "Children's" "How to keep you Subaru alive" belongs by your porcelain throne as it's a good read. Hope this helps a little.

Congrats, with all the factory decals - in yellow Welcome to the club, Scott has Moosen's body. He's building a wicked shifter cart frame for it. He has a movie on his site of mine running at the east coast car show I'm leaving mine factory - just going to clean the fiberglass. Well done, Sir Loin

You may also want to look at the ignition switch feed connector. It's pink in color and located under the steering column. (panel needs pulled) They have a habit of corroding and melting open the hot feed to the ig switch and all circuits controlled by it.

Walter, The GL uses a micro switch integrated with the ventilation control system to turn on the AC system. How did you wire this control switch

" No,if the primary was open,voltage wouldn`t suddenly appear at coil negative w/the "disty" wire removed." you are absolutely correct sir please excuse my blunder

anybody think .... a colder spark plug higher octane fuel different fuel company would help? How about a PO doing the insolater under the knock sensor mod?

I am sorry but my FSM disagrees with Mr. Naru. The coil power does not come from the ig relay. I researched this before I posted. It is powered through fuse #11 which is controlled by the ig switch, not the relay. Checking at the ECU is one way to test if it is the ig relay. I also checked the coil on my car -> it indeed does show battery voltage on both terminals. Another possibility is the primary side of the coil could be open? A continuity check can verify this.

Bill, this quote is taken from the second link "On carberated and SPFI injected 89 models,the test connectors are located on the engine side/driver's side of the firewall." Your car fits this description as it is the same as an 89.

If the ig amp is bad you will see no spark across the plug. You must hold the coil wire 1/16" or less to see it. The signal from The ECU is not large enough to fire the coil properly, thus the amplifier. The coil bracket must also have a good ground. You must hold the coil wire 1/16" or less to see it. Haynes should stick to making underware IMHO All SPFI and MPFI cars have the same ig amp IT is permently fastened to the coil bracket. As for the clicking relay are you sure one of the diagnostic connector is not plugged together. You could probe the ECU power feed and see if it plusates in time with the clicking.

Bill, thanks for the info You car will be a SPFI model (Single Point Fuel Injection) The connectors in question will be under the hood near the drivers side hood hinge (assuming it to be a American car i.e. left hand drive) Hope this helps. Here is another link to book mark http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

Bill, need to know what year and model you have. The method is to plug the two sets of diagonostic connectors (one set is green, the other set is black or white -depends on car fuel system) together and turn on the ignition. Location of said connectors is also fuel system dependant. Please read all about here http://www.westol.com/neper/ecucodes.html Note: If a problem still exists (i.e. egr solenoid winding open) the ECU will not clear the code. hope this helps

Since it's an 87 4wd it no doubt is a carbed car. Classic symptom of a semiplugged fuel filter The one under the car back by the fuel pump. (Primary fuel filter, the under hood unit is a vapor separator) The one by the fuel pump is often neglected. Hope this helps

First check everything Tom says. Esp if the rotor is turning when rolling it over. It could also be the ignition amplifier. The transistor located on the coil bracket under the coil. Hold the coil wire very close to a ground (1/16") and see if a small spark occurs when rolling it over. To assist in your trouble shooting you might throw together one of these It connects from the positive battery terminal to the small spade connector terminal on the back of the starter. (remove factory connector first) Good luck hope this helps

Yes the propane enters as a liquid for the exact reason you purpose. The phase change from liquid to gas absorbs latent heat of phase change energy, thus lowering the A/F charge temp. Icing of the cold start valve can become problematic, thus the back up valve in the liquid phase. As for the FSM saying the boost map is controlled by the pressure switch, which indeed is triggered at any positive pressure. My empirical observations on an 87 system say different. I have disconnected mine to prove my theory and the boost map still occurs at certain MAF flow signals. Maybe they reprogramed the ECU ROM in later years. Your FSM should also tell you that part of the programing when in a boost condition is to ignore the 02 signal. As for the FPR again you are correct - it raises the fuel pressure as the intake manifold pressure rises. So at 10 psi manifold the FP should be 46 psi. A RRFPR uses different ratio when the manifold goes positive. hope this helps, Skip

The auxiliary injector is mounted directly over the throttle butterfly. It is a Bosch cold start injector from a CIS system. The propane is liquid (thus the LP and not LPG) It is feed at propane vapor pressure (~ 70 psi) and controlled with an electric propane valve from a tow motor. The injector and the solenoid valve open via a pressure switch and relay. I use a small inverted propane bottle that I fill from a 20 lb tank. I use it for it's anti detonation qualities at elevated boost pressures. You are correct the ECU has no way to measure manifold pressure. As you know, we do not have MAP sensors. The pressure switch seems to only light the turbo light. The full rich condition is the ECU going into it's boost map and ignoring the 02 sensor output. I have seen full rich conditions even when the light is not lit. I believe the parameters for this full rich condition are based on the MAF signal. The RPM and the FI temp sensor no doubt also have a say. The saturation point is also brought about by the MAF signal, as is the fuel cut.

Archi, quote: " thats why there are NO production vehicles with a turbo carb setup." if you can find the time, do a Google for turbo'd Corvairs. They may have been called "Spiders". The Roots s.chargers used suck through variable venturi carbs (SU, Stromberg et al) The tapered main jet needle made this possible.

Kevin, I run a 3" high flow cat from Summit. I have no muffler per say, just the cat on a 2.75 ID pipe system. Seen here Magna Flow Cats I got a non stainless version for 65 GW's some time ago. Pass PA emissions with ease. I don't have TWE parts but I do have a twin tube down pipe of my own design and some other parts that make you ill, one of which is a LP injector for boost pressures over 8 psi. The ECU turns over the A/F control to the FPR at anything over 5 psi, so a RRFPR is wise. I have monitored the injector pulse width via an onboard oscilloscope I have seen them reach saturation at ~ 5 psi. Thus all fuel control past this point is done by the FPR. BTW I have no trouble pulling 7 grand and more. As for boost cut, try a voltage clamp modifier on the signal wire from the MAF. I modified a version found on a Mazda RX 7 site. I do NOT have the diagram or site as a pooter crash wiped me out, sorry. Be forewarned doing this with out other metering (wide band A/F monitor) can lead to destruction of the detonation type. Remeber my coined saying - YP YP (pronounced "yip yip" ---- You Play - - You Pay

Nebi, it appears that some of these guys mis understand you intentions. Most people over here take the air suspension off and replace it with normal springs and shocks/struts. You may want to look at this post for more info on using air suspension http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25305 As for adding springs also, sounds interesting. Let us know if we can help. Hope this helps

This was one of my former brainstorms that turned into a drizzle. I was going to wire each monetary button for each strut, using a DPDT switch for the master (one throw = inflate, other throw = deflate) w/ a center off position. BTW The deflate ("discharge") solenoid is inside the compressor housing. . I was also going to tap into the height switches and have an indicator lamp above and below each button. Note: there are four reed switches in each strut, wired in a kind of parallel configuration. But one can be used for "high" and one for "low" I do believe disconnecting sensors and solenoids will cause the pooter to freak. I was going to wire resistors of similar value to the components they replaced and hope the ECU didn't get it's panties in a bunch. I to was going to do this all at the AS brain. Tank filling can be accomplished as you describe, the cut out switch is a differential type. (10 atm - off, 8.5 atm - on) The desiccant in the lines to tank fitting is there to prevent moisture and icing of the lines/solenoids in sub freezing climates. Good luck, appears to be a piece of cake. Sold my rump roast (Air Suspended Suspension) car before I did this.