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I'm sorry Corky, I must have missed the turbo and the GL-10 part? Were you stating facts or possibly describing this car.

On a bit more forward level. If you choose to change tires you must change all four to the same style/size. Good snow tires in 13" are a hen's tooth in some regions. A good mud and snow will do in most situations. Chains, never needed them - listen to those who have. Driving in the snow is all about control of the situation. These cars have a nasty habit of inducing so much confidence we don't realize we are out of control until. Remember to steer - the front wheels must be turning. Use the brakes gently pumping when needed. Down shift early and leave the engine and the four wheels slow the vehicle. Like Hoozie says, find an empty snow covered parking lot and have some learning fun. Like I like to say: You can lie to Mother Nature BUT You can't fool Father Physics

Tach, I don't want to be a cur monger but the leaks I have had on my EA82T's (4 to date) from that location have not been the oil pan gasket. Mine have all been the front seal on the crankshaft. I also have had the oil pump to block seal leak. The oil pressure sender leak. But the oil pan generally leaks elsewhere. Hope I'm wrong, I believe changing the pan gasket (except for removing the old gasket) is an easier job. There are two bolts in the rear that require a stubby hand and socket driver. Some have done it with extensions. If you choose to raise the engine (I use an engine hoist) besure to remove the dogbone (pitching stopper to some). Have the car supported on jack stands under the pseudo frame rails.

Hooz, you are very lucky to have a "test mule" as one might call it I would put your coil set up on her car and see if it runs normal. My bet here is you may have had some corrosion on one of the coil connections. Cranking with low battery and low spark gas fouled the plugs/cylinders. Congrats on the fire in the hole.

It has been my experience with several Brats and a few GL's that simply reversing will unwind the bind. No slippery surface is needed but is always appreciated.

Hooz, not to reiterate but " Did you happen to check and compare spark with her unit in place? You could put your coil/bracket on her car as a test of these components. "

Hoozie's got ya covered, you will find the antenna connection (male from antenna - female from radio) at the corner of the center console next to your knee when seated. As for the speakers. The common point in their wiring you need to avoid is by passed by connecting at the following connectors. The two wire connectors for the front factory speakers are located at the top of the kick panels (outboard panels from your feet when seated) They should be pink in color. The rear speakers join the radio harness at a black multi pin connector behind the radio. The four speaker wires are in line on the bottom row of the connector. The colors are W/L - B/L-- Rear right Y/L - L/R -- Left rear W = white L = blue Y = yellow R = red Note use a common stripe color for your polarity guide. Hope this helps

Shudayu, Since the wheel bearing were just done, I'd check the castle nut torque. The torque on this nut is 196 N-m (145 ft-lb) read real bloody tight mate. Check this first, if the split pin don't line up wid a hole keep turning CW until it does. Hope they put the spring washer on da right way round. (Paint marks toward nut) The "ratcheting" sounding problem you have is not the CV joint. This is what you tested via your method. The problem may lie in the splines on the axle meshing in the HUB. After checking the torque. Try putting the wheel on, set it on the ground. Chock the rear wheels and let the clutch out in 2wd. you will no doubt see the nut/axle turn and the hub stay stationary. The fix? New axle? New hub - tear her down mate. The axle normally wears first (real pointy splines) but have a look see, you may want to do both as the ratcheting could have knackered them in tandem. good luck and welcome to the good ship USMB

Hoozie, Is it possible the sparking plugs are gas fouled thus causing the no start when using Mom's coil ect.? Might try a dry set. Did you happen to check and compare spark with her unit in place? You could put your coil/bracket on her car as a test of these components. Just as a wild hair test make sure the positive coil terminal has full battery voltage while cranking (12V - or above) The battery getting a bit weak in the knees from all this cranking?

Whilst you comp template and absorb info. Along with gathering parts and courage. The AT tranny may only want the governor deburred and cleaned. A half hour operation. Please email me for a detailed description of this process. It should be in the USRM (Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual) but I could not locate it. This may grant you some time to do the above. For more swapping info, please see the USRM, it is on the page header and the pertinant section is linked to below. Driveline Section

Check the connection to the ADS the "bump" may have dislogded it's connector or broke the wire to it. It is also possible the lurch caused some dirt that had been sitting in the fuel bowl "dirt leg" to become injested by one of the jets.

Chris, as Hoozie says check fuse # 6 in the fuse box. If this is not the case, please start a new thread. Mr. Phifer sir, please do not take this as a smart remark but possibly you are not aware of some of the "oddities" of the Subaru lighting system. 1) the parking, dash, and head lights ONLY work when the ignition switch is in the "run" position. 2) because of this fact, there is a rocker switch located on top of the steering column to switch the parking lights on should they be needed when the car is stopped with out the engine running. Please read the direct question to you in my last post. It is possible this rocker switch is either in the on position or in an intermediate position. No offense intended - please try and separate your statements. To my lame brain they are very confusing.

did you change the bracket and the coil?

"EA81 carb fit on an EA82 engine ok?" No. Sorry different spread on the bolt pattern. Do you have an EA82 engine? In 84 I would suspect it to be an EA81. Hope you put some of the good stuff in the fuel tank and didn't administer the entire can through the carb throat. The internal parts of the carb need it most. Pouring down the throat does not address these parts. It is possible my original post was not clear in this department. For this I apologize

Shortbus, This sounds like it might just be the carb wants the idle speed turned up a bit. To adjust the idle you will need a long thin phillips head screw driver. The idle screw is very hard to see - it is on the left side facing the carb. Deep in the labyrinth of throttle levers it will be the screw that hits the main throttle control lever. Note the fast idle screw will also be in this area, do not confuse the two. See if turing the idle speed up to 900 RPM helps. The problem may be worn throttle shaft bushings - common on these carbs. The higher idle speed will result in 1) higher oil pressure at idle 2) higher charge rate from the alt. and make it easier to pull out from a stop. The high idle with AC on, is normal. If you look at the carb with the air cleaner housing removed you will see a diaphragm devise with a lever going over to the throttle area. This is the idle advance for the AC. (Offsets the drag imposed by the compressor) Hope this helps

Brian, This is an interesting piece of machinery. The MPFI unit's in 85 were for the most part relegated to the turbo models. Is this an EA81 or an EA82 ? The MAF is, as stated, the "flapper door" or vane style found on early turbo units. (There will no doubt be people say "I saw....") But it is a strange combo - RX seats and such (assuming they were factory) 2 wd auto - how about badging? GL?? interesting very interesting but....

Welcome to the good ship USMB. Congrats on the fine purchase. Your car has a EA82 series engine for future reference. Since you do not mention it being a turbo unit it will have the just the MPFI fuel system (Multi Point Fuel Injection) A turbo will have MPFI also BTW. The fuel pump on these engines only gets power when 1) The key is first turned on ( the pump will only run for a second or two) 2) the engine is being cranked over to start (it will continue to run for a short period after the key is released) or 3) the engine is running You may have a broken timing belt (there are two on this engine) To test for this 1) remove the distributor cap (two screws horizontally opposed) 2) watch the rotor as some one else cranks the car over to start 3) if the rotor does not turn the timing belt on the driver's side is broken 4) the belt on the pass side may be the problem but you normally get some fire in the hole when cranking. There a labyrinth of "other" problems please check this and let us know. Again welcome.

Also it helps immensely if ALL four tyres are 1) of the same manufacturer 2) of the same size 3) inflated to the same pressure. I believe, as stated, you will find reversing for 3 or so meters will relieve the bind and allow for easy disengagement.

Sir Mudduck, Mr. Chadwick is pointing you in the correct direction I believe. The IAC or Idle Air Control on these SPFI cars is prone to "gumming up" to use a lame statement. They need periodic cleaning. This is such a common problem I would almost list it as a maintenance item. This unit mounted on the front of the throttle body. A canister shaped devise with a rubber line and a electrical pigtail. IT can be removed (four screws - one or two can be buggers) and the gum cleaned with any fuel injection spray cleaner, some people have had success by removing the air line to it and spraying the cleaner into the body of the IAC. It would be advised for you to find the time to check for stored error codes, ( BTW I revised the USRM article to make it more explicit after reading the link Craig provided). The error codes may tell you the EGR solenoid is bad or, as Craig mentioned, the purge control solenoid. However there is a chance the electrical connection to the IAC is wanting cleaned or repaired. Or the IAC has an intermitant open in it's windings. This in turn will also illuminate the CEL. Good luck on how ever you choose to attack this problem.

I would try a can of Seafoam before writing your carb off. If the empty tank did get some moisture condensation build up where did the H20 go when you filled it? H20 density question. The primary fuel filter is located by the fuel pump under the car in front of the drivers side rear wheel. Note: there is another fuel filter "looking" devise mounted by the brake booster/master cyl. This unit, although it is a filter, is called the "vapor separator. In light of this fact the primary filter is some times ignored. It still sounds like your ADS is stuck open. The car in gear and foot on brake will shut the car off with out the dieseling - unless it is a manual (not mentioned) if so then slowly leave the clutch out as you turn the key off.

Dave, First check the ignition fuse in the fuse box. If it is good then read on. The SPFI ignition system employs an ignition amplifier. This amplifier is basically a power transistor mounted on the coil bracket under the coil. The bracket must have a good ground. New ones are expensive but used ones are some what easy to come by. All SPFI and 1987 + turbo and MPFI engines have one. You can test to see if this is the problem. In a dark confined area. Pull the coil wire from the distributor. Hold it very close to a ground point - crank the engine to start. Making one of these may help. It connects between the positive battery terminal and the small connector on the starter. If the amp is the problem a very very small spark will be seen jumping to ground. Hope this helps.

make sure the electrical connection to the MAF (device on air filter box) is secure. see these posts for a similar circumstance. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27388 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27564

Jim - give me a_ "S" give me an "E" give me an "A" give me a_ "R" give me a_ "C" give me a_ "H" What's that spell?? Found this for you hope it helps. Posted by SubaRub It's really easy. Take off the end caps. I used a nail to punch the pins out.Roll it up and throw a rubber band on it. Take some vise grips and twist the spring up nice and snug, don't twist it so much that it breaks the spring. Now with the tension on, have someone hold the vise grips while you put the opposite end cap back on. Once the pin is back in the end cap, you can release the vise grips. Voila!

Glen, like you I am corn-fused Lets see if we can de -phifer his statement the dash lights are on when the headlights are off, I guess we must assume the light switch is in the parking light position, key off. but when i click the headlights on, Here we must assume the light switch is turned to the headlight position but he does not have the key on. the whole dash light deal goes off. Now the head light switch is in the head light position and the key is in the off position - the gauge lights now tun off as do the parking lights (assumption there?) and another thing, when i have the car not running, Another assumption here - the key is in the off position? the dash will stay on when i turn the switch for the lights to turn on, So the dash lights stay on but the headlights do not turn on (because the key is in the off position.) This statement is noteworthy as the switch, if it is the problem, would not allow the dash lights on at this point either. See my point? but they dont, ???? Lost in space. when i start the car, the lights are on but no dash lights. So now we have the key on and the headlights illuminated - but the dash (and parking lights, I assume) are not. what do i do? Get a better translator than me, as I am lost. No mention of the parking and tail lights one must assume they are also not illuminatted. **************** Please tell us sir Phifer what does switching the switch on top of the steering column do when the car is a) running not running (with the key in the off position)

Spiffy, The control module you are looking for is mounted close to the edge of the trim panel that is above your knees when in the drivers seat. Same panel that must be lowered to see the ECU (Kick panel - at least to my feeble mind, is the panel to the left of your feet when seated?) The plastic control module is gray or black in color. Maybe the plug has come out of it, this can happen when removing the trim panel. As for your 4wd / vent problem, under the hood, on the shelf behind the passenger side strut is a white vacuum storage canister. Check the line to the canister from the intake manifold and the one leaving going to the 4wd solenoids. These are mounted on the shelf behind the driverside strut. Both systems share this vacuum. Hope this helps.