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Ami, Welcome to the USMB but I do think you question will be better served at the Justy Only Board here is a link to it http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/ good luck

could be the ABV but don't rule out the AIS ( Air Injection system) notorious for causing major back fires. These started being used in 82,but it may have one. note if the reed valve in the AIS is bad it can melt the silencer and the carb has been known to ingest the melted plastic. see this link, it talks all about it AIS defined and described

well get the trim panel that is above your knees when driving down then follow the instructions here Retrieving error codes One hunch is the AAV (Auxiliary Air Valve) located on the t-stat housing wants it's connection cleaned Could also be your FI coolant sensor contacts wanting cleaning . Retrieve the codes to find out.

ndu, you are correct, my old brain failed again the sensor is on the pass side as for the hi/lo feature I believe you and will look in my FSM Why not run a small speaker wire into the cockpit from the two hot control leads you speak of Wire it to two 12v lamps or LED's gound the other side of them in the car you could watch the fans for a while I think I will just for info on their operation

by chance do you still have the ignition noise suppression capacitor still connected? Small can shaped devise wired to the coil Just a whim but possibly it's shorting out internally

Ron, We both have the same understanding of DS C It controls a drain (if you will) for the clutch pack hyd. pressure. ergo if DS C gets a 100 % duty cycle signal - the drain is opened fully and no pressure is exerted on the clutch pack. This means 0% transmitted to the rear drive. Here we differ a bit though. I do believe this signal to be a modulated wave form and not a constant 12 Vdc signal. There is speculation that a constant battery voltage signal on these windings could cause them to fail prematurely. Result - drain is closed -> all pressure on the clutch pack 50/50 split => binding in turns ect. Infamous problem with our cars. The fuse in the FWD receptacle tells the TECU to send the 100% signal (and to light the dash FWD light). **Please remember this is also used if you fit the "donut" spare.** It is also my belief that there are some drivers that prefer to have the rear drive at a more aggressive percentage for handling purposes on some surfaces. Thank you very much for your response.

CTS is an analog variable resistance thermosensor. the ECU will turn on the fans (one speed, only speed) when it see a problem with the CTS reading (out of the normal parameters) This is done in case the engine is overheating. With a faulty input it fails safe.

whats the temp you may have flooded it this time Pull the aircleaner top hold the choke plate open with a screwdriver reach over and pull the throttle cable do you see any gas squirting from the accel pump?

since we are tossing in our p's has anyone considered that the look of our current passenger car model line is quite generic Lexus, Infinity, et al I have trouble identifying a Subaru (old schoolers not need apply, in my area they have almost all gone to the crush-0-matic) Could the bean counters at FHI want some market identity? Then people would recognize how many Subarus are on the road and possibly be inclined to consider one on their next purchase? Run down the road with a sweat suit on - who notices Run down the same road with no pants on - well you get the picture. Doesn't matter what the stock in the soup is, It's all about the "beans"

Kamakazi crank bolt removal made simple Place socket on breaker bar with a pipe extension. Place end of pipe on ground to the RIGHT of a center line drawn to the ground from the crankshaft center Disable ignition (pull spark plug wires) Bump starter. Serves one, batteries not included, do not teach your siblings this trick

Fans are single speed - on or off I'm with Josh on the FI coolant temp sensor (CTS) By chance have you seen the check engine light flash on occation? When my CTS went bad my fans would run constantly after the engine had been running a certain period. (94 Leg 194kmi) You might want to check the connections first. These are relatively cheap sensors about 30 GWs Located on the ldriver's side rear portion of the intake manifold (American model) just behind the PVC connection to the crankcase. Screws in horizontaly, will be brass in color. Mine has a brown plastic connector. Hope this helps.

a quick search revealed this for you flywheel turning

absolutely correct. turning the key to the "off" position prevents the electric choke from heating and opening. the three pumps prime the engine and sets the choke properly .

OPSU = Oil Pressure Sending Unit careful if you have to buy one there is a sending unit and an OPS (Oil Pressure Switch) The sending units are known to fail and give inaccurate readings. But first Find the unit next to the oil filter as mentioned. If there is no wire on it or in the vicinity look on on the engine directly above it's location. If it comes loose from the sender it can get caught in the fan belt and it gets shortened considerably.

Dan Heel clickers and ruby slippers optional. Please do the trick as typed . One of my Brats has the same carb leak down problem.. Good luck, I hope you find nothing is wrong but the carb leak. We sometimes jump to conclusions here a bit quickly. Facet pumps (sold by JC Whitney, NAPA and others) are a good semi cheap (~40 skins) replacement for the factory pump if ness. see this link Facet Fuel pump

Dan, Here is a trick to try in a situation where you would normally have the problem (cold start in the morning for instance) turn the key on and then to start for 1~2 seconds turn key off (must be in the off position) do this three times then pump the gas pedal three times and crank to start consider switching to a used Weber 32/36 DGEV if you have a minute read this it says EA81 but your EA82 will respond similarly Weber carbs

Erice, A couple things are not correct in this picture. First, did you pull the aforementioned codes from the fuel injection computer (ECU) or the the transmission computer (TECU)? These code definitions are from the TECU. Second, if you mean TECU - it is Duty Solenoid C not 3. Numbers refer to shift solenoids not duty solenoids. DS C is the solenoid responsible for controlling the engagement of the rear drive. I don't mean to pick on 84Sub but he has a couple of facts not quite correct. VSS 2 is in the dash (speedometer head unit) and is used by the cruise control and the TECU for deciding when to engage 4wd. The ECU may also use it's output for some functions such as when to enact the idle control circuits. The duty solenoids and the 4EAT transmissions were used in some GL models in the late eighties. Duty solenoids were also employed on ECU controlled carburetors in the mid eighties. Josh the Legacy Guru has an excellent site set up for your car please see the following link http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/subaru.html navigate to "note and tips" then to "engine" and "transmission" You will see ways to retrieve codes and their definitions Hope this helps

I will have to disagree with 85Sub4WD As Miles points out on MPFI and turbo cars the connectors are black in color and located under the dash. the white (black) connectors are for retrieving the error codes stored in the ECU hence they are called "Read Memory" connectors Please try and fine time to read these links http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=44 http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ Here you will read how to use the white(black) connectors to read codes or to clear codes

the dangers of sandblasting the under side are well documented the fracted silicon dust will work it's way into all bearings. I have found it more advantageous to use a rotary wire rust scale remover and apply a coating of POR 15 or similar Good luck, real kewl project you have there

kb, you say "main fuse" do you meant one of the fusible links located under the hood in the black plastic box mounted on the over flow bottle? The GL-10 series has many many circuits Your request for a schematic is best satisfied by a FSM (Factory Service Manual) this link might help http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 or as Miles says get a hold of an underwear manual (Haynes) A common trick is to wire an automotive light in place of the fuse. The high current drawing item will cause the lamp to glow. Remove circuits from the equation until the lamp extinguishes. Hope this helps and welcome aboard the good ship USMB

Gentleman, I thank you all for taking the time to reply. I appreciate and highly respect your input. Item one will be completed this week. The control switch is the worrisome item.. It must be semi sealed as to protect it from salt slush and other loose impediments. I am also sensitive to using parts "off the shelf" for any person wishing to build this system. Item two is still in the development stage. I have to get the TECU in a position where it sends a maximum duty cycle signal to DS C in order to record the parameters of said signal. I will extensively test this devise on both an 89 and a 94 FT 4EAT before releasing any details. Once again thanks for the time taken to give your feedback on these projects. I will update this post as the project progresses.

I see said the blind man while on the phone to his deaf son. Here is what I will do. I have an Impreza that this remote should work with. (I already have two remotes that came with the car as I said this is a spare) I will attempt to program the Impreza with it. (It is my understanding the car's alarm system gets programed not the remote as the remote is doing the transmitting not the car??) If it works I'll send it to you for you to try. How about we take this to email? neper at alltel dot net

Peter, Sorry for the mis read i.e. 60H-M24 == > G.OH-M24 The Subaru alarm systems are fairly sophisticated so my bet is the remote will not work. I am still a bit confused by your question, do you have a G.OH-M24? If so why not give the instructions I linked to you a try? Or use what ever instructions you used to program the G.O-MM6 ? I do not know if this remote I have will work, it is a left over from a Forester I owned. I have seen many for sale on Ebay.

Two retrofits I'm working on and would like some feedback on. 1) I drive a 2.5+ hour commute most of it in the dark these days. Many white tails, not uncommon to see half dozen each way. I run some serious lights and do not like blinding oncoming drivers. Thus I have to drive with my finger "on the trigger" which I find uncomfortable. So I am wiring up a foot controlled trigger for the dead pedal. Something like American cars used to have but adapted to the Subaru lighting system. Which we know is a bit more complex than the old cars. I will be using a Bosch high/low beam control flip flop relay. This will be controlled by a momentary spst switch with a large mushroom shaped control button. Should I write this up and submit it to the USRM ? The second is a bit more complicated but concerns the use of the FT 4EAT automatic transmission. I have a Mac Automotive oscilloscope and am wiring it to the control wires for duty solenoid C. This is the solenoid that controls the rear drive in this transmission. I plan on building a control module to allow the driver to select 1) locked in four wheel drive - used only on snow and other traction limited surfaces 2) Front drive only - similar to inserting a fuse in the FWD box, some feel this helps fuel economy. 3) Dial in rear drive percentage for "special" circumstances. For these items I need to know what the duty cycle signal looks like that is sent to DS C. I will build a pulsing circuit using a IC 555 to mimic the TECU output. Thus the O-scope. I plan on interfacing with the TECU so that it will not get it's panties in a bunch when the system is activated. Read not trip an error code while preserving the solenoid windings from a direct battery voltage application. Is this a marketable devise or just another "gizmo" that has little merit? Thanks for reading. All comments welcome and appreciated.

Jay, I would like to address your "baffle" question. As my subject says "I am baffled by your baffles" Are you sure he said "baffle" not "bearing" as there is a very well documented problem with Forester/Impreza (same platform) rear bearings. I've had two Foresters and still have an Impreza - I have had a total of 4 sets of rear bearings replaced. They have a problem and now can deal with it, my last set set me back over 500 skins - dam stealership. My MY00 2.5 RS has the clutch shudder problem also. I know the headgasket is going to go. I plan on getting the "oatmeal" treatment - ya'd think these cars were made by GM or sumtin. I'd have better luck with a Mego Igo Yugo