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Kevin, I have two of those units installed in my wagon the max temp is 155 deg F. One has probes 1) in the folds of my K&N filter. 2) glued to the throttle body above the butterfly. The second unit has it's probes 1) on the back side of the intercooler under the hood scoop 2) in the inner fender (ambient temp) The second probe you ask about is soldered to the PC board. If you plan to unsolder it and move it, the correct wire type must be used (type J thermocouple wire). The cig plug powers the light only (mine is connected to my dash lights. I tapped it into the ash tray light.) I have a Fluke lab digital (powered by a small inverter) on the dash extension for H20 and oil. You've seen my dash, it makes you sick you said. No wait that was my lump. Hope this helps.

After pulling a sparking plug or two to make sure they are not fouled. Then pulling the distributor cap and making sure the small screw holding the rotor in place is indeed holding the rotor in place. Try pouring some petrol down the throttle body. What is the temp. where you live, the coolant temp sensor could be knackered?

my check mark goes beside the carb's accelerator pump is not squirting enough petrol. try a can of Seafoam (NAPA, Advanced Auto et al) in the gas tank, - it may be a semi clogged passageway. Note this may take 100 miles of driving to work out the problem. 88 hatch w/EA81?? 88 3 door w/EA82?? look on top of the lump near the front lip for engine ID

85Sub and Phishy do a fine job on your wish list I'll add my 2 P 1) Ebay - always seems to be good deals on full kits 2) No, very stout bottom ends and the rings and such seem to last a very long time. 3) As said this is an alternator problem (they have built in regulators) I have seen your symptoms due to bad brushes (coming and going light show) You obviously know which end of a left handed metric crescent wrench is the business end and could change them but a used alternator is only 25 bucks, buy one and put it in the boot. 4) Engine = Air pump. you know this drill Open the intake (K&N or what ever blows your skirt up) free up the exhaust Y pipe back if possible with 2" (max) pipe and a free flow pack of your choice 5) Follow their lead and an owners manual is a wonderful thing (many available on market place or Ebay) Pick up a FSM (Factory Service Manual) and leave Haynes to making underwear and the Children's (Chiltons) book to the kids. 6) The hill holder cable operates as the return spring. The spring incorporated in the HH is what pulls the release fork back. Remove the cable, set the release fork for .5" pedal freeplay. Reconnect the HH cable and adjust as necessary to have the HH work (clutch in on a hill, HH should hold brakes on, brakes release just as the clutch engages) 7) Many after market types try J.C. Whitney. A factory unit is costly sometimes and overly complex compared to an after market item. 8) Change the clutch, pp and throwout bearing, get the small clips that hold the bearing on the fork, pilot bearing is a sealed ball bearing unit and lasts a long time. 9) Welcome to the good ship USMB hope you find your stay enlightening.

our Subarus use two relays for the headlights. One for the left one for the right. Highly unlikely both relays are gone poof. and the fusible link that feeds these relays also feeds the running lights which you say are working. I would go with Martin's idea. What I have seen happen is one side's low beam element burns out and goes unnoticed, then the other side burns out and well now you notice. If you are going to try new lamps, Sylvania Silverstars are the mutt's nutz these daze. If you are going to trouble shoot - be advised the lights work with a switched ground much different than an American car that employs a switched hot. Hope this helps

Could this residue be caused by a bad evaporative canister no or a timing issue? no I already replaced the pcv . did you use an aftermarket PCV? if so - - bad juju that thinking that was the cause ring blowby try a can of "Restore"

do us and yourself a favor try a search for "idle problem SPFI" tell me how many times the letters "IAC" are mentioned

Just a WAG (Wild A$$ Guess) But check the wiring for the radiator cooling fan (if there is one?) it could have been knackered while messing with the heat tube. Have you tried the Justy only board? http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/index.cgi

you ask "What should I do next?" not to be a jerk, but you might want to detail the problem a little bit more.

I believe the answer to your problem has been presented by 84Sub and by Glen you either do not have the coil bracket grounded or you have fried the ignition amplifier, this power transistor is mounted on the coil bracket under the coil. The signal from the ECU is very small and this amplifier brings it up to a level capable of firing the coil.

breaffy I am going to assume you would know how to set the cam shafts (one dot up one dot down) if you had the orig. flywheel on and set at the middle mark of the three belt timing marks this obviously also sets the distributor if you have not removed it. so how to find this crankshaft position. Simple Subaru elegance really, this crankshaft position is the position where all four pistons are sitting half way in their travel. Read all at the same point in their respective cylinder. A thin probe inserted through the spark plug hole can be used to measure piston location, bring #1 up and over TDC and then measure until #2 and #1 are at equal points. Remember the two pistons on each side move in tandem. Hope this helps. Good luck, please post pictures of your plane. It's not a gyro is it?

my but we are getting a bit teste

StClara, Welcome neighbor (see my location) here is a web site describing your security system http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code%20alarm As I see it this should work. Overriding the Alarm when you have lost the remote Open driver's door. Turn ignition key to 'On' Press and *hold programming button* in (see diagram, button under dashboard) After 15 seconds the the door locks will cycle 3 times. Exit programming mode by releasing Programming button under dashboard and turning key to off.

This item as the web site show is commonly called a "hill holder" If you look above the "camshaft" in this shot you will see an 0 ring. This is the part that normally causes the leak. Do you have the facilities to replace it? If not you could probably find one on the market place I guy, Scrapdaddytatum, is tearing down a GL-10 right now that should have one. Hope this helps

The solenoid you refer to may be a form of vacuum motor on the air cleaner snorkel. The motor could be controlled by a vacuum signal from a solenoid. when some thermal control senses low ambient temperatures. If you want to see if it is working, remove the fresh air tube to the snorkel. Look inside the end of the snorkel with a flash light. The vacuum motor should be connected to a flap via a control rod. This flap is raised by the vacuum motor to divert the flow of air from the fresh air tube to the heat tube you speak of. Start the car on a cold day, the flap should raise thus causing the carb to injest the preheated air.

Phillip, By chance are you referring to the check valve in the large vacuum line to the power brake booster?

stngllhm: <quote> my advise is the BFH!!!!!!!!!!! a 20lb works quite well <quote>

Back on the original poster's problem i.e. all highjacking aside The IAC could very well be your problem. Please see this post for a discussion on this item. I still think it should be covered under "periodic maintenance" Idle problems with SPFI's

replacing the oil pump involves taking the entire front of the engine apart from removing the rad (to gain some room to work) right down to removing the front crank drive pulley and timing belt drive gears. The T-belts and covers must come off also. doable yes, easy?? I guess that's relative. I would try changing the oil to Castrol 20w/50 and a half pint of MMO. Much easier and this solution (excuse the intended pun) has worked for many. but if you are going to "yank the lump" to do a clutch job, do it then. In my opinion - using a used clutch disc is well "the thrifty man oft spends the most - time" along with "Do it once and do it right" come's to mind.

The starter issue is a well documented problem with these cars. The contacts that are in question are the ignition switch contacts not the starter or it's solenoid. This can be proved by running a wire from the positive (+) battery terminal to the small spade terminal on the back of the starter (remove factory connector to do this test) if it cranks repeatedly then the simple fix often employed is to add a "starter relay" I have owned several of these cars with the same problem/solution. the wiring is shown below - any lighting type relay (Napa, Walmart, Rat Shack et al) can be used. Hope this helps.

so Peter as we discussed what is getting programed the car's receiver or the remote I say the car's receiver IT can store and respond to several different input codes. Thus being able to use several different remotes Possibly only two - thus the problem I had testing the third remote for my Impreza? . There are no DIP switches to change remote codes that I know of so each must have it's own code. The remote is doing the transmitting not the security system so it must be doing the teaching and the receiver the learning

J you could have a wiring issue with the wire to the injector in question The injector kept squirting gas and hrdo-locked the engine - the click and no turn of the engine. cylinder full of gas - piston tries to compress petrol - gas moves by rings finally. Dilutes the oil - oil is very thin now - pull the dip stick and smell it pull the plug from the cylinder in question, pull the injector and place it in a catch devise (old can or something) and turn the key to start.

how about a rerun since it seems like old posts are in vogue these daze

no vacuum advance on his dist it's a crank angle sensor type all timing aside from static is controlled by the ECU the vacuum ports could have been for the erg solenoid and the canister purge solenoid the coolant pipe MAY be feeding coolant from one head to the other. Could be part of some parallel system. you would be wise to be careful with that pass side head and cooling issues

MMO thins out the oil I run 20w/50 Castrol GTX with 1/2 pint MMO all year long. I'm just across the state approx. the same Lat. 3 Brats 2 turbo wagons 1 Legacy