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E, By chance have you tried Guinness in a bottle? All seriousness aside. I like the idea of the coupling of the cond. and the rad. Being into temps and the control there of.. Have you given thought to putting a partition in to sequester your intake. The opening in the inner fender will have it into breathing cooler air? The way it is now it looks like you are ingesting hot air from the rad. My intake is run into the inner fender for this reason..

Poke, Very common problem. Find the black plastic canister in the front pass portion of the under hood area. Right behind the head light. Follow the lines into the engine. One will lead to a solenoid - yep that's it. You can test it for continuity (~ 35 ohms) Most go open, this lights the CEL. Boneyard brother (take your multimeter) or ask in the market place. EGR solenoid is the same unit, may have a different connector. Hope this helps

Yikes, a RX 10 speed tranny has a 3.7 FDR (Front Diff. Ratio) You have a 4.11 rear diff? What no front axles and the diff lock on all the time? My saints, that thing must scoot!! The RX front spoiler is a bolt on (once you remove the other lower lip). Here is a picture of Willy, Kinda hard to see the spoiler but it's there.

Beef, Sweet job on the transformation, which tranny did you use? On the over heat - I have long been contending that the surfboard bumper may be a contributing factor. The flow of air over the bumper top lip may cause a "tumble home" effect. This turbulence slows the flow through the core at speeds. I have noticed this on every turbo car I've driven (including one with a brand new twin row rad) I have removed the grill to see if that may have been the cause -it wasn't. I came to the conclusion that more air needed forced into the core. The place for this air was below the bumper. I added an RX front spoiler, the results were quite satisfying, both H20 and oil temps dropped by 20 deg F at highway speeds By the way I have only the factory electric AC fan with shroud - no viscous clutch mechanical. (I run a lab style Fluke digital thermometer with type J thermocouples. This is powered by a small inverter with probes in the coolant system and oil pan) Good luck, please keep us informed of your progress.

KUDOS and props for a job well done Thanks Mick!

Do as you see fit, I am using the old springs/followers/HVLs I think Delta would caution us if spring bind were a problem. I have seen 7+ grand and never expierenced valve float. As for the 272 - don't forget to grease glue the shims that come with the cam onto HVLs.

Running these ground cables is fine but if the ground wire to the component is not making a near zero resistance connection, your auxiliary grounds will do little good. Maybe in your mind they will?? Below are some major grounding points to check/add your aux cable. (12 AWG is fine 0 is for the sat night boyz, current in a wire is carried on the outside surface of the conductor this is why stranded is the best type to use) Common Subaru ground points 1) front driver's side core support 2) pass side front intake manifold bolt 3) behind the coil - driverside inner fender 4) 02 sensor 5) coil bracket (SPFI and MPFI w/ig amp) Doubt this helps

check for the small braided wire that grounds the radiator. sounds like the dash gauge for the voltage may be out of calibration. Wire your multimeter to a cig lighter plug and compare.

Syd, Welcome to the Old Side fellow PAian. I am a realist Rebuilt engine - 1500 JDM import ~ 500 beans Boneyard special ~ 300 Get the car to your place ~??300?? Car cost ~ 100 +tax title license. Looks like a minimum of a G note . With you doing the labor. You ask about the parts that could have been damaged. If he ran it with coolant in the oil, the turbo bearings could be toast. Replacement turbo ~ 50 beans or more. Then we probably need a clutch pp ect - 150? Might as well put T -belts and an H20 pump in the mix - 100 Then we have the tin worn issue looking at the rear wheel arches. Being a fellow PA native with several GL's of this vintage. Even have an almost identical car - GL, turbo, 5 speed, wagon (87) I will take bets the front frame horns (under your feet when driving) are toast. You will have to get it inspected like this - not a worry? Wise sage said "There are many fish in the sea" Good luck with whatever you decide hope to see you at Carlisle

Thanks for the reply Lukas very interesting info.

Frank, did you click the link for the WGDS setup? it goes between the turbo outlet hose barb and the wastegate as shown

both touring wagons!! can ya dig those headlight squirters guys I think the XT6 was the only model over here with them? where are the wipers? Do some European countries mandate headlight squirters, Lukas?

Why is this like this? The 4EAT has connections to the speedo for the VSS The shift quardant pattern and possibly other lights.

Try this for some pointers http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26251

good point, I will have a look for this sanding mesh thanks for the tip

as you say I have never seen this mesh most of us use plain old emory cloth

For those that attempt this Scoobaroo mentions a good point. The emery cloth will plug with aluminum dust. He used WD 40, I have used Gumout to wash and lubricate the paper during the process. A corollary to this method is to employ a flat Arkansas stone or sharpening stone to surfaces that can not be readily removed or are of an awkward shape intake manifolds and water pumps come to mind. These aluminum surfaces clean quickly if the stone is kept clean. Excellent post - we need a USTB sub forum. (Ultimate Subaru Tool Box)

I got the foot switch and the control set up for doing the foot controlled hi/low beam control via flip/flop relay. But the VW headlight hi/lo beam control unit (flip/flop) was fubar. (anybody going bone yarding? I still would like to use this method, it's in the fuse box under the hood on Vdubs, Audi's ect.) N-Knee ways - Miles suggested a foot dip switch from an older truck. Just so happens I had recently purchased one for my dump truck. Yea har! There was even a bolt under the dead pedal in my Legacy for it. Very simple three wire connection, very simple conversion. Much better this way - esp. if you have the bad habit of using burning nicotine. I have installation instructions, part number, and wiring colors for many of our cars up to the 94 Legacy. Email me with car and year if you would like to do it.

I might be able to help, I have some of the FSM wiring diagrams scanned. 4EAT FTAWD and 5 speed FTAWD tranny connections. I just did them for Scrapdaddytatum. He may be able to help as he just did this conversion but it was to an 89 GL-10 4EAT Email me if you want copies.

this car has a viscous center diff. If the rear diff was snafu and not driving the rear wheels The center diff should lock up and drive both ends sounds more like a clutch issue to me. or maybe the center diff

dneufeld Scan of the plugs is on the way to you. Arche's idea is worth looking into. Neuro - email me I'll see if I can get you the scans for your system. Please tell me the type of MAF you have or the year of the system.

my choice would be "Lockease" a lock lubricating liquid with graphite. Since this area will see road slush, I like using a lubricant that will not hold dirt - thus the graphite.

Frank, nice score, well done On the turbo light, since some of the parts on the pass side inner fender were disturbed or missing. The boost pressure switch may have been disconnected from the intake manifold. The switch you are looking for, looks like this boost pressure switch Also in this area is the Waste Gate (or boost control) Duty Solenoid. If it was also disconnected from the intake manifold the turbo's waste gate may be disconnected. Meaning the turbo will boost with no control and could possibly cause problems. Might be woth looking at. The solenoid is mounted on the pass side strut tower. It should have three rubber lines and an electrical connection. Here is the WGDS shown off the car, plumbed properly. Waste Gate Duty Solenoid Again nice score, good luck and have fun.

Just a littlw tip. When you remove the driveshaft from the tranny the fluid is going to come out. Be prepared, a rag stuffed in the gap will slow the leak. Welcome aboard and good luck. Most of us buy a driveshaft from a junk yard as they are pretty stout, your location may make that impossile.

Donald, Why thank you for the compliment. You are quite the comedian. It is no more than a feeble attempt to get people to proof read what they post. I realize some people are too good for this, showing they have little consideration for the readers. These select few would rather let the person reading figure it out. Sorry if it hits close to home.