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Lets say Mick is correct if so then by this very crude copy paste reconstruction Will is correct

Tex, I sent you a detailed description of the wiring you needed along with some testing procedures. I have heard nothing in return, did you get the email? Or did I use the wrong address?

Linda, Just to chime in with no help I am about 50 miles out east (Latrobe area) Although I own many vehicles including about a dozen Subarus. I have never found a reputable or trustworthy mechanic. (and my bro in law is head saleman at Kunkles Subaru in Delmont, his cousin owns the joint!) Therefore I have to spin all my own wrenches. Just a bit of "misery loves company" as I am in the same boat as you. I will keep a peeper peeled for you though

you heard correctly nothing else but goes into all my vehicles (incl a baker's dozen of Subarus) and all my gas powered eq.

Frank on your wheel question to add to what Chef Tim has told you here are two links worth seeing http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/wheels.html http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=41

Frank, This sounds like a classic case of the governor sticking. Very common with your transmission. Please email me for a photo documented procedure to effect a repair neper at alltel dot net

yes I use a presuure switch from the boost cut on an earlier turbo systm it triggers a relay

Jeremy, If the pump were damaged in the crash, you would see signs of this by examining the pulley. If it spins true I would say it was untouched. Please check that none of the lines connected to the pump were involved (evidenced by crushing) As a restriction in one could cause problems Finally I would add some "Lucas Power Steering Conditioner" Available at all major parts houses. Hope this helps your dilemma and welcome to the board

Sorry for the mis info on the module placement, I apologize. Goes to show all is not the same in the land of the Plieades and learning something every day is good. But while you have the panel down why not test the switch? If you want to test the wiring to the motor you could put a jumper lead from a 12v source to the pin you stick in the wire for testing On your vent control problem make sure the white cannister on the shelf behind the pass. side strut tower has it's vacuun lines connected and operational. ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ I have said and misinformed you enough I will let Glenn take it from here Good luck hope you get it fixed

I R here is a complete troubleshooting guide for your 4wd selection system It from the board's USRM Repair & Mod manual as seen at the top of the page http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=47

J, If a simple adjustment of the idle control screw does not bring the idle speed to spec.. Please verify i) The throttle/cruise control cable is not too tight. ii) The throttle stop screw has not been changed (throttle plate should all but close completely on a fuel injected car.) iii) The dashpot is not hanging up iiii) That the idle switch in the TPS is closed at idle. iiiii) All vacuum lines are connected properly and there are no leaks (a small vacuum leak will raise the idle speed)

Ross, there have been a rash of problems on this side of the pond with the Accel Super Stock coil. (the name given in Jeg.'s catalog) (for proof please do a board search for "Accel" you will see what I mean) The MSD (Multiple Spark Discharge) Blaster -2 coil seems to be an excellent choice with no problems reported to date. (35 usd) Jeg's I believe will ship international. here is a link to it for refernce purposes http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1656&prmenbr=361 Hope this helps

Spiffy, If you still have trouble locating the module or would like to test the switch before tearing the st. wheel covers off. It's connector is a 17 pin connector black in color under the st.. column. You can stick a test lights probe into the wiring of the connector, having the other side of the test light grounded. Alternatively you can stick a pin through the insulation and test for voltage on it The 89 FSM shows the Green with white tracer wire getting +12 volts in the low speed position. Note: It shows this wire is a direct connection to the wiper motor and does not go to the control module. Meaning that possibly the module is not the problem. I have a scan of the wiper control system , please email me if you would like a copy.

I agree that the is the "preferred method" Thanks Ed, well written. The ones I've done have all been EA82 vehicles. I also have to remove a brake line clip along with the swaybar mount?? Learn something every day, again, thanks good move Caleb

so you had the trim panel down that has a a heater duct connected to it and it is not mounted on the lip facing you on the top side? funny I have 87's and an 89 all have it in this location

Vi, Welcome aboard the good ship USMB. I'm going to guess this lump has a carby on it. From your description it sure sounds like it is going lean when the problem occurs. The mechanical noise could be preignition.... Have you checked the vacuum advance on the disty and or messed about with the ignition timing lately? I'd have a look at it just to take it out of the equation. Make sure while you in there the disty's mecanical advance isn't knackered. Some one will surely say check for possible vacuum leaks, especially in the intake runners next to the sparking plugs, if air is entering unmetered, the cylinder being fed could go lean and misfire. Ever hear any popping out the intake? How's the engine temp? Do you mates have "Seafoam" carb cleaner available? You could have a clogged transfer port in the carby, this stuff is truly "magic in a bottle". Sorry for all the q's

There is a neutral switch inside a manual transmission. It is not the interlock or the neutral start switch in the console. I used one long ago to allow my remote start to operate. If I left it in gear it would not start the car. Crack open the FSM.

Hoozie Sheesh mon, you made it in with two minutes to spare, well done, sir And not even a "Thanks Hoozie, YOU ROCK!" I'll say it Hoozie you rock, good link if he can't find it well then maybe he should tell us what fuel system is on the car it is for??

Give these a look through http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8390&highlight=herky+jerk http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=4338&highlight=herky+jerk http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28062&highlight=herky+jerk

I added an auxiliary injector mounted in the intake plenum It's a cold start injector from a Bosch CIS system One tee in the fuel line by the filter and I use the boost pressure switch to trigger it.

Seafoam is some good stuff we all seem to agree they also make "Creep" if they put theur name on it............... I'd also get out the impact driver. The kind you hit with a hammer. Best idea... Go see Ed,. he'll set you up. My bet is he has quite a few tricks up his sleeve.

Sent ya an email We will get it working.

Toni, if you care to learn anymore about the system. There is a repair article in the USRM (Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual) You can link to it from the top of the page here is a direct link to the repair art. on the system http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=47 hope you get it fixed and welcome to the board.

Just a quick note from a 15+ Blokemobile owner incl. 57 TR 3 (small mouth, my first car, have owned for almost 40 years!!), 2 "Frogeye" Sprites you may know them as "Bugeye", multiple "Spridgets", XJ 6 series III, Triumph Trident (3 cyl 750 mc, still own), + many others. Charter member of the club responsible for the "British Car Day" at the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix The Whitworth (I call Twit worthless) sized bolts ect. are use mainly in plumbing parts, (fuel system for example) It is said of driving a British Sports Car, " you will spend more time under the bonnet, than behind the wheel", too true pass me the spanner it's in the boot good luck and don't buy a fridge made by the P of D unless you like warm ale

sorry Spiff mine have always been ON the trim panel that you have to take down