Skip

Karin Not that I want to confuse you more than you are but I have to disagree with Northwet I have never seen a Subaru that used it's anti diesel solenoid to prevent back fires. It's function is to prevent run on after the key is switched off. The backfire sound like a classic case of the air suction reed valves going bad. This condition can lead to the silencer melting and then carb ingests this melted plastic - causing a labyrinth of problems

Russ needs to study a little but more. There were many carbed cars with 02 senors The carb and the mixture is controlled with duty solenoids that adjust the air bled into the emulsion tubes the 87 2 wd model will have one, 4wd do not It still could have an 02 as no drivetrain info was given

side wall height (inches) = (tire width x series (60, 70, 80 ect) x 0.01)/ 25.4 tire over all height (toah) = rim diameter + 2 x side wall height the normal height for a factory tire (165/70R13) = 22" you say the ride height went up by 2" meaning the tire was 4 " greater overall height or toah of 26" series = 25.4 (toah - rim dia.)/(2 x tire width x 0.01) for a 165 on a 15" rim means this was an 85 series tire?

fusible link must be tested with subsitute or multimeter maybe just the connection turn key on and jiggle

are all of the doors locked? maybe an after dark excursion with a pocket torch may yield some help from the dash cubby

This may help search results for ignition module http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32258&highlight=ignition+module

Merlin Welcome to the board. My check mark goes beside the ignition module in the distributor. A boneyard model distributor should be less than 50 George Washingtons. This was the topic of a recent post, a search may turn results. I will also try and find it.

Jim, I believe Miles may have missed that this is the down pipe from a turbo as he says "fabricate a piece of sheet metal between the top of the pipe and the bottom of the axle boot. the axle boot is important to keep the heat off of it" This is true if the pipe is below the axle boot as would be on a non turbo engine, your's will be more or less above and behind the boot. I agree with you the cat is where the main heat is being generated, without it and most of the effect is minimized plus the clearance is larger as the pipe is not as large in diameter as the cat. Still I use a header wrap as Miles suggests http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1351&prmenbr=361 Along with a small piece of sheet metal (~ 4 x 6 inches) held off the pipe by a strap and onto the pipe with a radiator hose clamp. I can email you a picture if you like.

Eddie, This is a common problem normally associated with one of two items. Please read the following closely The first is the contacts in the ignition switch itself The second is the contacts in the starter solenoid located in the starter A simple test. Take a piece of wire and connect the positive battery post to the small spade connector on the back of the starter. You must remove the factory spade connection on the starter first. . If the starter cranks the engine - the problem is the ignition switch which is the easier of the two problems to rectify. IF you get this far, please post so and the solutions will be for coming..

Thanks Russ, most appreciated. and thanks for pointing out it does pay to read closely sometimes..... I did try to lay it out in a fashion to make reading and comprehending it easier. The posts I see that are one big paragraph...... Do get hard to follow I believe.

Eddie, please take a moment and read the description more carefully. They are round and somewhat flat. You must take the headlamp assembly out to see it.

Link to a Black RX

Yes it is for the waste gate but nothing else is needed. All our turbos have a waste gate, it's bypass can cause restriction in the form of tubulance. The second tube enters the downpipe down steam to avoid tubulance at the mouth. The one I make looks like this. This prototype was stick welded they are MIG welded now

I second Larry's reply Try cleaning the IAC (Idle Air Control) he speaks of. Do this by removing the hose to it and spraying it with Gumout or the like. You might want to try a search for idling problems. BTW this is a very common problem. The SPFI fuel system your car has, should have this cleaning listed in it's regular maint. section.

Dale working on the assumption you mean "like start a fire" type ignition like fire in the hole i.e. bilge and not "spark a sparking plug" type ignition You may want to check the OZ message board they do allot more of what you are doing

Glad to hear it was relatively inexpensive fix, you're most welcome. And again welcome to the good ship USMB

it's kewl Dave if you need wiring diagrams or what nots please ask

check the work bench for the oil pick up tube oil pump rotor in downside up or still laying on the bench count the number of empty oil containers

these are long shots (hopefully it's a Subaru we are asking about) EA81 Check to make sure the grounding strap for the radiator is in place EA82 These switches are prone to going south as the full current of the fan must pass through them (there is no relay for main fan control) Hope you didn't tie this rather large current load to the coil In the future it would be a considerate move to state the car year and engine type,

J your car has the SPFI fuel system they did put green "test" connectors under the hood in the early models his is a later model they should not be left plugged togther see my edit above they must be plugged together to check the timing then unpluged

Sreg You are correct as the link says. The SPFI cars have black or dark colored "Read memory" connectors. I always found them under the hood though by the drivers side hood hinge To retrieve stored codes the "Read Memory" connectors should be used. The "test" connectors are white ( same place, under the hood by the driver's side hood hinge) on later models Plugged together for setting the timing and other "tests" I think they used contrasting colors so they are not corn-fused, but I may very well be mistaken in this regard. Glad you got the codes read, wish you well with the fix.

As Miles states "to the right" We also call this clockwise as looking down on the distributor cap The rotor turns counter (or anti) clockwise. You can tell you are advancing the timing if the idle increases Haynes should have stuck to making underwear- except for their pirating. The Children's er Chiltons is even worse Go fishing in the bay of E for a Factory Service Manual if you want the real skinny. How much are you planing on bumping it up? These distributors are known for having bad vacuum advance diaphrams. Might be wise to check this while you are in the area.

Sorry Bob the only Carby I am friendly with is the Weber my quess - given Holley was designed for the US market is -- no A "T" fitting with a restricter of sorts would be an EZ way to solve the riddle Email me if you want and I'll show you a couple ways I have done this. neper at alltel dot com

This is the wrong forum for EJ22 questions But I run a dual setup on one of my Brats The ticket is to put an "X" pipe in I believe this allows the scavaging effect to be maintained. I gained power from down low to about 6k I run Weber DGEV 32/36 on this engine This is what my setup looks like