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Just remember .... You can NOT back up while the car is connected to the tow vehicle. some lessons in life are learned the granite way

PVC line

the choke uses a bi-metal spring that is heated by a heating element It should get hot. As for your hard start well if the normal tune up parts check out, make sure the choke plate is fully closed when cold. My 78 became very hard to start cold.. reason: the points had worn closed to approx. 0.002", should be 0.018" Little burnishing and a regap - starts like a Suby should now.

I just wanted to know if my car would loose a considerable amount of power with out the turbo. yes I would still like to know what symptoms there would be with a blown turbo? Depends on stage of "blown" If internal seals go => lot's 0 smoke out the Tpipe if it locks up => loss of power

Like Craig, 94 GT with 2.5 RS 16 inchers 225/50's

Sorry MD, other way round single range - high only is a warning that 50 MPH max though

This could be an impedance problem If the output transistors are looking for 4 ohms and you give them 8 they might not be too happy. This problem will manifest itself especially at larger outputs. I 'avent a clue as to what impedance these radios are set up for.

you're most welcome, my pleasure good luck with your search

I believe there is a missing comment to the statement "All Brats _____ were 4wd" That statement being "imported into the US of A" IIRC there has been mention of 2wd Brats in middle east countries.

the neutral switch is indeed on the transmission the ECU needs it's input to discern when to use the "idling in nuetral" map By chance was the wiring harness you used from an automatic trans. car?

Boxer engines do not respond to a "wet comp. test" oil lays basically on the bottom of the cyl inline and "V" engines - yes horizontally opposed - no This sounds like valve seals but a new OEM - not after market - PVC valve should be tried first

Austin is correct on the pass. strut tower Between the air intake box and the tower. Silver metal box about 4 in. long here is a picture of your quest

The ECU is under the rear parcel shelf on the pass. side The connectors (black in color) are there also With the light on it may be flashing the error code without plugging them together. Simply turn the key to run but do not start engine. Here is a link to the USMB repair manual on code reading (see page header "USMB - Repair and Mod") http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=44 Hope this helps

Try this site and then hit the bay of E http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html People sell them all the time. Hope this helps

Way kewl that is choice well done, Sir Loin I would have lost all four wheel covers before leaving GA

Jon, kewl that you mentioned that. that is why I posted them side by side the cockpit is real small by comparision

Baja, by all means-- bring it on, the post title does say "old and new" I'll show you mine if you show me your's

Here are two of my 4 and a half So lets see yours??

Mary, me and carby tooters are one. I have been rebuilding then since water was invented. I will gladly do yours for free if you git da kit. Better would be to score another unit off of Todd possibly Maybe Caboo? send it to me and then when you get the rebuilt model the swap will be an on/off with no missing or corn-fused ingredients. BUT - I have a strange feeling your EGR may be the cause of this malidy. I can show you a picture of where it is and how to test it if you like. I'm sorry if I do not agree with the person that deamed your tooter junk. Contrary to public belief these are very simple tooters and unless the throttle shafts are worn badly I doubt the problem is all carby. Have you by chance tyried a can of Seafoam in a nearly empty gas tank yet?

Thanks Mary you bring up two points I woul.d like to comment on. I have no side molding (or holes) - which could have been a Dealer Installed Option (DIO) and "All vinyl upholstery" Mine has cloth inserts where the derriere is planted I doubt this is a DIO. All my other Brats have the worn drivers side seat bolster except my 78 - whadupwidat Moose thanks for the ed. for I be a SPED I perfer the quad look myself and am looking at my cyclops -I will instal it if I do not have to cut the center core support. The grill that came with it appears to be for the quad set up?

Thanks Caboo I am also guessing that there was no actual "GL" DL" designation as I have not seen the badge indicating this. I would put mine like yours in the "PJ" catagory. Plain Jane With the optional quad lamp grill. P.S. thanks for the offer to help with the dist. swap. I'll keep it in mind when I find a newer dist.

Paul, Thanks for the scan Guess if you have a dist from an 83 or newer it in the deep freeze. That says stage II I guess mine is a stage I with a build date of 12/77 Both the grill 4wd badges are shown (mine has it spelled out) Is that a reference to the two grills (GL/DL) or stage I and stage II as previously stated.

give this link a look see and ask any questions you have ECU Codes and reading welcome to the board nice to see more PAians the link is from the repair manual on the page Header here is another http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ As Glen says the ECU is under the steering col. You must remove the trim panel to see it Your "read memory" connectors (white in color) are under the hood by the drivers side hood hinge.

Subie, thank you so much, great link site even has a full size view heck I'm printing it and headin for NAPA now if I can't get one I'll order the real one.

Well done Mary, glad to read it has so much potential. My 78 and my 85 both have seats, belts, head rests and now get this - the 78 came with "booties" maybe called "gaiters" to cover the seat belt retractors !! I have a removable set for my "dress Brat" They can be found, some are a bit salty but this is ridiculous!!!!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7973528651&category=6763&sspagename=WDVW