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87 Hatchback?? do you mean 3 door coupe? EA82?? if yes ---- timing belt broke is a good bet Pull the dist cap and crank it no rotor spin = no driverside timing belt

lots of items come into setting the correct timing. The factory is starting point for our older cars. I run all of my Gen Is and L series advanced I advance it, listen for pre ignition, and back it off till it is livable

Gal you do rock AME* = FAB** * -> Arrest Me Red ** -> Fabulous

Thanks for the thanks but Glen deserves all the credit. I mis-read the original post "I'll never own another EA82" I thought it was an EA82 car and you were fed up with that series I was working on the premise that it was an EA82 series Glen had it correct from the beginning and he is the man P.S. I meant no malice in my relay comment - Glen does do his homework as I obviously did not until it was too late

Ryan Hope we help some. My reading of the wiring diagram lame as it may be, and not on par with Glenn's, does not show a single relay in control of the entire lighting grid. Each head light has it's own relay and the relay for the left hand lights also powers the parking lites. So if both head lights are out (high and low beam) then both relays must be out of action. So if hot wiring the black/white wire at the fusible link box does not solve the problem, the next truly universal control is the light switch or it's connector. By chance does the auxiliary parking light switch on the steering column provide any illumination? My guess is no.

Ryan, The entire lighting grid is powered by the a fusible link. These are located in the black plastic box mounted on the over flow bottle behind the battery. Lift the entire plastic box to get at the wires connected to it. The link you want to test has a black with white stripe wire. Run a jumper wire from the battery positive post to this wire. My check mark goes beside a loose connection to the link (this may become evident when you look under the link box.) Good luck let us know what you find. .

DK There may be a connection but you do not allude to whether the two event coincide. This statement is a bit nebulous "the voltage meter acting crazy. Shooting up to 17 amps, then down to 8 or so." I will assume you mean volts not amps as your voltmeter reads volts not amps. At any rate it sure sounds like the alternators internal voltage regulator is toast. Please examine all battery connections for poor contact, as an alternator running without a battery load can fail in this manor. Rest assured, this is a pretty common problem with this series. A new alt should return you to normal. Subaru must have known this might happen and has protected the brain (ECU) from these voltages. On the idle problem the idle is controlled by a controlled vacuum leak, the screw to adjust this "leak" is located in a recess on the throttle body, but the IAC may be wanting attention please read this previous post I made on the subject Dave, on the very front of the throttle body is a "can" shaped electrical devise that sits horizontal. This, for future reference is the IAC valve (Idle Air Control valve). Look on the passenger side of the throttle body just behind the can. In a recess sits a screw that also runs horizontal. This is the idle control. The way the idle is controlled on fuel injected cars (turbos also) is to allow a small controlled vacuum leak. Not by adjusting how far the throttle plate is open as is the case on a carbed car. This is mentioned for the sole reason that turning the screw anticlockwise raises the amount of the vacuum leak and thus increases the idle. (On a carbed car turning the idle speed adj screw this way lowers the idle) Hope this helps, as you are correct- during the winter months, a slightly higher idle speed helps offset the battery drain caused by the heater blower, headlights and wipers all being used simultaneously at some times. Note: the IAC valve controls the idle speed during warm up, but can affect the idle at all times if the internal shuttle sticks.

Fiberglass kit car based on the "Trimuter" chassis The EA81 is being fit as we type I need a snowmobile crankshaft with the primary clutch. I am going to mount the clutch to the flywheel of the EA81 it has upside down front wings for down force.

Not as ugly as this will have an EA81 and a CVT come spring

Find the large vacuum diaphragm on top side of the tranny, the one with the cable to the 4wd shift lever. Follow the vacuum lines back, they will end at the control solenoids. Get him the cylindrical white connector and some of the wiring off the main harness.

Steve, the control solenoids are in front of the wiper motor on L series cars Will do Gary, give me a shout if there is something about the repair article you don't understand.

Gary, the gas mileage may be a wee bit better but not great. Yes the pushbutton is on the shift lever but can be put anywhere. You will need the control solenoids I have an article that lays out the electro mechanical aspects of the system. I will email it to you if you like. Here is a chart of gear ratios from the USRM http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/Transmission/gear85fsm.jpg

Congrats on your find. Welcome to the good ship USMB. As for your drug problem (LSD) The parking brake is on the front wheels, just a FYI the rear diff may be swappable for a limited slip unit from an L series car (GL-10's ect.) but was never offered AFAIK on the early Brats. Great little vehicles, I do mean little by today's standards. Tons of fun and miles of smiles to ya

Dirty, as no vehicle is specified I'll guess the turbo in your signature if this is the case there is no pick up in the distributor It is a crank angle sensor type distributor. Btw the item under the coil is not the ignitor it is the ignition amplifier. The signal output from the ECU is so small it needs amplified before the coil will fire properly. The "ignitor" is in a distributor that does not have a crank angle sensor and is called a "pick up" by some. Make sure the coil bracket has a good ground.

78 Brat 62 kmi 86 Brat 38 kmi

might try this from the message board's repair manual please click the link below 85 - 89 5 Speed D/R 4WD tranny into an 80-84 Body Style vehicle...

Froggy, good luck, just soap water test every air line to component you can find. Getting the plastic holder off is a chore I made a tool out of a plastic tube Sliced the side of the tube to fit over the line and slide it into the fingers Be aware When one goes... well you know the drill

I am among the very few who like Subaru's rump roast (Air Suspension System) Your leak is probably the 0 ring connecting the solenoid valve to the strut Check it when the bag is full with some soapy water. You can get new ones at the stealer or online.

Dah, Zye is correct use the link below and before you rip into this swap see why the engine check light is on. The connectors you need will be under the hood in the area of the driver's side hood hinge. link to the board's repair manual http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/subrepair.htm link to checking the error codes http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/mick-usrm/electrical/ecucodes.html The power options will be independent circuits they are no worry. The AC may be different as there was factory installed and dealer installed. Do as you wish on the intake manifold but some connectors may not be exactly the same, even in the same year there could be differences - your call here. You mention not having this type of experience.. I say well you make the call. The lower two nuts holding the engine to the tranny are real buggers--- tight and a bit hard to get to. Support the tranny during the lift with something like a floor jack. Good luck Minor point but using the "post reply" instead of the "reply" will prevent the coping of the previous post - like my last "book" for instance.

PW, Okay I'll start in hopes someone else, Snowman (as he knows his stuff) for instance, will fill any gaps or fix any of my fox paws (sic). Your best bet is to retain the top part of the engine which is called the intake manifold. This devise has attached to it all the sensors and electronic parts (except for the 02 sensor - which is in the exhaust) that your brain box is used to seeing. (i.e. no problems with the harness connectors or devise interfacing) It has been done by removing this unit all connected (6 bolts - three on each intake to head connection)**, and raising the entire manifold into the spare tire area. (note: you may need to remove some hoses and wiring, each hose or wire you disconnect put a piece of masking tape on the hose and a piece on the barb it came off of. Then label both like ... A - A, B - B ect.) Then change only the lower part, called the block. With care the intake manifold connections on each side of the block can be used for the engine crane lift connection. Insulate the connection with wood or similar as to not damage the head surface. Some ancillary parts, AC compressor and PS pump, can be removed by unbolting the bracket only (leave the hoses attached) and moving the unit to one side. (e.g. The battery should be removed - it's tray will hold the AC compressor) A tip you will no doubt hear or read is to do a timing belt, water pump and front end reseal to the new block before installation. Excellent advise this, as doing it in the car is fun but easier on an engine stand or 55 gallon drum. A simple use of the "search" function will yield many posts on this subject. ** This special note is brought to you by your friends at PB Blaster. This miracle in a can is excellent for freeing frozen fasteners - intake manifold bolts like to corrode to the manifold, as do the exhaust pipe fasteners. Gentle persuasion is best - ham fisted tactics usually lead to more problems. The blue tipped hot wrench can be one of your best allies. As a final epilogue to my diatribe, please if you will, note how I used spacing to break this lengthy post into a more reader friendly fashion. Long run on paragraphs tend to tangle themselves into a hard to read knot.... and for me..doing a spell check is a must Another small bit of advise is to trash the "Children's" manual (Chilton's) and get a Factory Service Manual (FSM) or Bentley manual. - fishing one out of the bay of E is what most do. Good luck and may the Power of the Pleiades be with you

This problem sounds fuelish to me. Full throttle (i.e. WOT) action rules out fuel pump or fuel filter. Clogged jet in the carb - good bet. Try a can of "Seafoam" (any good auto part house will have it) Takes about a hundred miles to do it's magic but It is a proven winner for this type problem. Hope this cheap fix helps

right you are S man sorry, been a lng one

SPFI is TBI, same thing, equal, no difference Just use the intake manifold from the DL no worries Now if you happen to mean MPFI same thing - use the intake manifold and all it's bits from the DL

You are most welcome, hope it helps.

This problem is so common it should be in the USRM Here is a wiring diagram of the fix I have used on 5 different L series cars