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DD the best place to make this tap is under the dash You will see a connector whose harness goes to the ignition switch. Probe the wires in this connector - you will find a switched ignition hot wire capable of handing the current you require. Adding an inline fuse is no doubt in your plans as this wire will be protected by a relatively high amperage fusible link. Hope this hel.ps

For all three connections red to the coil positive yellow to the coil negative black to the coil bracket mounting bolt. the simplest way is to strip about 0.75 inch of insulation off the wire you want to connect to something then loosen the nut wrap the bare wire around the post and tighten the nut.

Kosta, All the aftermarket tachs I have wired have three wire (four if you count the internal light) One wire (red?) goes to a switched with the ignition battery voltage One wire to ground (black) and one wire (yellow) to the negative side of the coil. I have used this on older Subarus. Hope this helps

Sorry Firstsubaru... no MAP - not on Subaru untill 2000 The MAF is a sensor not a valve. If bad car runs poor at all speeds It does have a TPS (Thottle Position Sensor). They rarely go out of adj. but you are correct in so much that the idle switch is incorporated in this device. This problem is so common., please read the links I provided The IAC valve should be cleaned each time the oil is changed.

Bob, This problem is very common to the SPFI cars which she has, after checking for any broken vacuum lines, clean the IAC (see below) The IAC valve (Idle Air Control) as mentioned is no doubt the culprit. These get gummed up and need cleaned. I would put this on the normal maintance list Try these posts http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27893&highlight=idle+control+valve http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32704&highlight=idle+control+valve Hope this helps

Come on Jim apples to apples here "like northwet said a/t are ok, my wife driver a 88 full time 4wd turbo wagon , 22-23 mpg city , running ac , 4speed a/t" The 4EAT wasn't introduced until 88. It is a much better tranny than the 3AT.

One thing Northwet fails to address, part of the reasons we drive smaller cars is the fuel economy Well a turbo sporting the old style fuel injection (1986) with a 3AT will be very lucky to see over 20 mpg on a constant basis. I also have driven a turbo 3AT, I experienced 1) governor problems 2) modulator problems and the real pits 3) Front wheels locking up at ~ 40 MPH as a result of the bearing between the diff and the tranny failing. all in the last 50 kmi of a car that only had 150 when #3 happened.

have at it just keep the original intake manifold and all the associated bits IF it's a three speed automatic seriously consider upgrading to a manual gentle search will provide all the ness. acutraments That tranny is better suited as a boat mooring

where is the boost gauge tapped in? I would put it in the line to the waste gate and check it there. I can not imagine being at 4k RPM and not having any boost as you say. Do as you wish but I would take a look at the wastegate and it's plumbing. What you describe is classic fuel cut feel.

Sounds like fuel cut to me get a boost gauge on it line to waste gate should be checked

You say, and may I be so bald as to quote you directly "Well I checked the timing, it seems fine... " You did this with an obvious or was it an I guess it's right? Kosta, since you have been on so many forums you must be aware of what is called the "search" engine. Yes, it is more work on your part and yes it can prove frustration and yes you are very tired of hearing this But Have you used ours? The new evidence provides an excellent data base for an attempt.. Old cars old tricks. There is a product that is called Seafoam. Some passages in you carb may be not passing properly as you suggest, Sorry I missed this was a CA equipped car until the last post, all bets are off in my court. Good luck- you obviously need the help of Kerry from Rubuilders he is the Hicrappy gruru. Please do not ask how to contact him, he works close with Emily.

On the issue of the CO % being too high. It has been my experience that a dumping carb (float to high) will cause the HC's (hydrocarbons) to go through the roof. Other evidence of a "dumper" is a) black smoke out the tail pipe sooty black sparking plugs. c) A weird gurgling noise heard in the carb throat along with raw gas appearing on the throttle butterfly when idling. High CO on the other hand can be caused by incomplete combustion of the mixture, resulting from a weak spark or ignition timing that is set incorrectly. My 78 EA71 has ignition points - younger guys may have never seen or adjusted these creatures from the old world. They affect both the spark voltage and it's timing. To add: they go closed as the rubbing block wares down. As the go closed, the dwell increases, the timing retards, and the spark voltage may fall. All contribute to incomplete combustion of the air fuel mix - no carb adjustment can correct this correctly. You may want to check the condition and the gap of these oft forgotten and neglected entities. The vacuum advance is to be connected to a point where it gets NO vacuum at idle - i.e. "ported vacuum". This can also play havoc with the emissions. Pull the line to the outboard side of the advance/retard mechanism on the dist. and see if it's sucking at idle. Shame on me for looking at the simple stuff first as I am a very simple minded guy. to wit: Ask me to roll my pant leg up while I was tying my shoe lace, well... I'd fall on me head thinking about it. Good luck, hope this helps and don't forget about the old school "miracles in a can" fix to sneak one over on em. Might try a search on that one under "can't pass emissions" PS Just a gentle exclamation... this crack of your's "This new Historic forum sucks, all the people from the other forums doesnt seem to get here..." will not garner many friends on this side of the Suby world.

sounds to me like the brushes in the alternator are about shot and doing the intermittent charge routine I have had this on more that one EA82 alt (I guess that is what it is no car specifically given) When they get worn so short they occasionally loose contact with the slip ring

have you given any thought to installing an aftermarket temp gauge? I will assume the fan is coming on at about half scale.

have you given any thought to insalling an aftermarket gauge?

Ma, right you are about one for show one for go. I have a gen II also for show (38 kmi) But.. I have been collecting a bit longer (I have been on this planet ten years longer than ya) I'm up to 4 1/2 Brats, three gen IIs and a factory Brat go cart (=1/2) My daily user is an 86 with a Weber and custom duel exhaust - that is what Dale needs, she can keep up with traffic soto speak. With the gen II you get a duel range tranny and the 1800 - plenty of "go fast goodies" available for it. Check Qman's "Beast" - now there is a stump puller

maBrat well done fore sure - nice score another 11/77 ! ! nice mine is also 11/77 can't claim the cleanliness but only 63kmi on mine bout the same history, second owner here wish mine was as well presented though .... once again well done Sir Loin welcome to the good ship USMB

Jim, I found 172 posts on it, I realize it's tuff finding the ones that tell you the procedure. The first one has a picture from the FSM that I posted. Hope this fixes it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27893&highlight=idle+control+valve http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32704&highlight=idle+control+valve

NC nice of you to say so You are welcome good luck Hope it's a simple as this fix many links to twin row rads and such replacement rads are available you are looking at under 1.25 c-note ($125) plus shipping

Bottom line you need a new radiator the cooling fins delaminate from the cooling tubes no flushing - roding or magic in a can, will cure it We have seen this problem many times in the past. (but I am but a grasshopper here at times) Please do not take my word only on this ... There is a search engine on the title bar type in "overheating" and judge for your self. May you solve this mystery quickly as your head gaskets going south are only an overheat away

Jim, the idle air control valve (IAC) is sticking Located on the front of the throttle body.. (the gizmo that the thottle cable connects to) Has a wire and a rubber hose connected to it There is a picture and a cleaning proceedure in a previous post......... Good luck, hope you find the problem is as simple as this "shoud be" maintance item

Budda, You may or may not have been fed some bowl o' chit These cars have a habit of loosing the ability to crank over the engine for several reasons. One of which is worn contacts in the ignition switch. Find the starter, on the back of it on top there is a small spade connector. If you put battery voltage on this terminal it should crank. Run a jumper lead from the battery positive to the starter contact, if this makes it crank then put a test light on the terminal you removed. Ground the other end of the test light and see if the light lights when you turn the key to the start position. If so then I would suggest putting a relay in as shown. It is an aux lighting relay found at any auto parts place. (I have had to do this to several of my L series cars)

my guess is they sold you an oil pressure switch not an oil pressure sender unit sender unit should have been about 30 bucks switch less than ten GWs by chance does the gage rise when the engine is not running but the ignition is in the run position? if so then the above is the case

In hope you mean what are some times called "Parking Lights" Check the small rocker switch on the top of the steering column. I believe you may find it has been inadvertantly switched. Maybe while cleaning there or other. Since the "head lights" are switched off with the key. This affords a way to tun on lights when parked. Hope this helps.

1) you don't tell us what MPFI system you are running I see mention of an 87 so it might be the hot wire not vane or flapper door 2) Sooty plugs =.> from a rich mix or poor spark or wrong range plugs. They are NGK BPR6ES-11 no doubt? 3) I would like to read what the comp psi/sq in is in number 1 ...not "it's up" ... bit nebulous to my feeble gray matter 4) I will assume you had the green test mode connectors together when you looked at the timing at idle. Has the distributor been out of the engine? 5) You have obviously swapped plug wire three with plug wire for one ( they both reach the dist and can be changed) 6) Have you ever heard of "Colortune" a clear headed spark plug to let you watch the combustion http://www.international-auto.com/index.cfm/fa/p/pid/3448/sc/8189 7) a vacuum leak in the intake runner to number one may lean it's mix to a non fire situation BTW Your hopes that the Keep your Subaru Alive book will help is not based on fact - in fact it has very little on the turbo system. Children's and Underwear manuals are also not much help as you noted. Shop the Bay of E for a FSM if you want to get the true skinny Feel free to answer any of the above questions or to ignore this convoluted inquisition