Skip

~ 8 psi gauge

Whoa be it from me to send your away...... but the Justy forum is much better suited to your needs http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/ They will know far more than most of us here do. Good luck and hope this helps

Okay Phiz remember you asked. Jeffroid has your "painless" answer Here is my set up, just used it to pull a similar dent out of a panel. First drill a hole in the rubber close to the handle and through into the cavity, then thread a hose barb into it. get the "plumber's helper" started by pushing it on. Then pump the vac down to about 20 in Hot tip from Skip: If you do not own a "Mity Vac (pictured) connect a length of vacuum line to the hose barb on the helper and run this to the intake manifold and start the vehicle. At idle it should pull a good 15~20 inches of vacuum. Once the vacuum has the helper stuck fast yank it smartly.... Works like a charm........remember you asked.... Please see my "personal motto"

That is the boost (pressure) light switch. It closes at about .5 psi positive pressure. It should be connected to the intake manifold. Hope this helps

"Am I missing something????" Possibly, a Subaru TSB (Tech. Service Bulletin) published in the late eighties spoke of a ground connection at fault when this occurs. This ground point is under the front pass. side intake manifold bolt. It is the ground for all dash related entities. Second, all the flushing products methods on the planet will not do anything except make your wallet lighter. The problem with your radiator is external not internal The fins connecting the coolant passages have delaminated from the tubes and therefore are not "wicking" the heat away from the tubes. Here is what you will likely find if you take the time to remove your rad. If you want to fix this follow the advise above and get a new twin row.

John, I downloaded and enlarged the engine photograph. I can find no evidence of the metal canister fuel filter? I doubt it would vaporize as it is steel and aluminum, as you know melts, at a lower temperature. Can you point it out in a photo?

Inspector Clueso, quizzically rubs his chin and asks "Did you change the fuel filter recently? and Where where the fusible links during this episode?" Experiences like this are very hard to take but if we all learn something from it... it may soften the blow My deepest condolences.

Here is mine, snuck it out of the Bay of E. It is currently under restoration to original I just bought a true 78 Brat to haul it. This link is a video of it in action shot by Scott (SubaruBrat) at last years Carlisle event http://www.subarubrat.com/PICS/carlisleskip.MPG

does the "POWER" light illuminate when starting the engine? If so you may be able to pull some error codes if the TCU is not toast Did you by chance check to see if the wiring harnsess to the tranny is intact? Maybe the PO was doing some trouble shooting?

Doubt connecting it will cost or save fuel. But you could have derivability problems if you do not vent the petrol tank via some method. Holy gas cap, Batman

Craig, please accept my apologies. When you commented about my tires I had to go check, I was wrong, they are 205/55 R16's The 225/50 R16s are on my RS - they will be going on my 93 Legacy Turbo wagon. Will report. again I am sorry for the misinformation

you could be excused as it is a bit burried in the orig post i.e. "What experience has anyone had?" The expierence being related it that of reversing when towing four down.

That sir, is the evaporative canister. The purge valve uses it to keep fuel tank vapors in check. I know not what you plan for emission control, so the ultimate answer lies in your court. Thank you for your kind words, but I am but a grasshopper.

K9 you still have not explained what the problem is if you did I apologize for missing it The car won't shift? Won't go into gear? What??

If the person in the towed vehicle tries to correct ... the towed vehicle will try to streer the towing vehicle via the tow hitch This is not good in some situations. P.S.

I see, said Helen K. you are therefore welcome for an answer

Steve, I do not wish to raise your irk anymore than it is but I have turned many EA82T and XT6 flywheels as seen below. The "step" you are referring to is very close to the same distance when they come from the factory. I am guessing the machined flywheel you have as been machined incorrectly, or you have some mismatched parts. This XT6 package has been used by many and has been used successfuly I am sorry you are having problems. Some of my work...for reference only

and can we play with some "Bucky Balls" "arf arf" went the seal as they threw him a fish

" Not even if the tow'd vehicle is running?As in idling in neutral." If this comment was directed at my statement?? Please be advised, the comment I made has nothing to do with the drivetrain of the tower vehicle. But is directed at the fact that.... The front wheels will cock and jack the knife will occur within meters. as I said - the the path to knowledge is sometimes strewn with Gibraltars

Alan, The problem you are attempting to solve (pre ignition) can be manifest in carbon deposits on the head surface. If these deposits are in evidence, they may be large enough to cause not only the ignition of the fuel air mixture but also an artificial rise in the compression. pressure. Do you have the facilities to run a compression check? Have you the financial reserves to have a "Motor Vac" done? please see this link http://www.dynatune.com/motorvac.htm p.s. my email to you was bounced by your server

You are most welcome my friend, good luck with your project. After achieving nirvana you may want to add some "go fast goodies" such as my lump has

Does the Fullerian phase Dymaxion = Dynamic + Maximum + Tension. ring a mini bell with anyone reading this?? For a explaination of the above balderdash please see http://www.thirteen.org/bucky/car.html Bucky is one of my main insirpations

Kay Nine you need a Transmission Control Unit? My guess is any 2wd 4EAT unit will work as there are no special features built into the XT6 that say a 89 2wd 4EAT GL would not have. May I be so bold as to ask, why you suspect the TCU?

The board's Repair manual is listed and linked to in the header on this page. "USMB Repair & Mod" It contains pertinent information ( including. ECU trouble code reading) that you may find helpful. It would be conductive to follow the advise about checking/replacing the main tune up parts (plus the air and fuel filter) A compression test may prove benificial in this quest. If the engine does not respond to these, you may have a timing belt that jumped a tooth or two. You have two t- belts in this non interference engine. For future reference the engine you have is a "vane" or flapper door style MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor. Good luck, we are here to help those who help themselves

This post will be moved to the retrofit forum But for your belt issue The position you need is where both left side pistons and right side pistons are at the same location in the cyl. bore i.e. half way in their travel. A wooden dowel can be used to find this position As for the distributor. position. Once the belts are fit Find TDC on #1 (front left cyl facing the engine) with it on compression (both valves closed) The rotor then points to the spark plug wire tower which is almost facing the rear of the vehicle (when conventionally mounted) The finial timing must be done with the green connectors (test mode connectors) connected and a timing light. 22' BTDC I would advise marking TDC on the flywheel and using a controllable timing light or get a harmonic damper from an 87 or later XT They have the ig. timing on the damper. Hope this helps