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Skip

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Everything posted by Skip

  1. Thanks Todd and I will add all the info is spot on the t-stat went in and worked Suberiffic.
  2. thanks for all the replies guys, that sure sounds right Mick there a few place on my cars that I will only use the factory OEM part This is one of those places. The 78 Brat I am picking up today from biffanyus has no heat - temp gage peg never moves in this temperature. Warms up normal in the summer. My check mark goes beside a bad t-stat or no t-stat I have a couple new units for EA82's, will take one and throw it in before my 2.5 hour trip home. Could be one more "Skip-a-sode" comin' up as Tommy has not driven it much lately.
  3. Can anyone tell me if the thermostat in an EA71 is the same diameter as a thermostat in an EA82? Thanks in advance Skip
  4. Super, This Brat should have the tried and true "points and condenser" distributor. If this is the case, the coil gets battery voltage on the positive terminal. The negitive side goes to the points. The points need set to .018" gap (do not clean the points with sandpaper. use a burnishing file and clean with a folded dollar bill) and the condenser has to be good. Not a whole lot of folks know about points ignitions anymore
  5. Subie, I knew it wouldn't be long before you scored another. If your want to sell the extra fenders, I need a set (both sides) for my gold 78 Brat Thanks Skip
  6. Mary, you're still a spring chicken in my eye ;^) thanks for pointing out the Gem Top is metal (Aluminum I'm guessing) I'm hoping this "pig in a poke" turns out as nice as your recent find. Happy Holly Daze
  7. try cleaning the IAC (Idle Air Control) Maake sure the FI coolant sensor (two wire sensor on goose neck) is connected and working properly This is what the ECU uses to know when to lower the idle.
  8. which intake manifold did you use? sounds like an IAC problem to me it wants cleaned I'll wager a search for this problem will yield pictures and a procedure
  9. you do mean it will not turn over then follow 91Loyal's advise if it cranks then these ignition switches are notorious for doing this the contacts fail to pass enough current to properly engage the stater solenoid the addition of a relay in the following configuration will solve your problem permanently hope this helps
  10. Caboo Thanks picts would be most kewl sounds like the one Mick is describing but for a Gen I
  11. light machine oil I do this as I do not want metal to metal friction compromising the torque value
  12. As Ross says totaly normal try some heavier wt oil come spring 20w 50 Castrol GTX is what all my L-series (EA 82) love
  13. Also a kind word of "thanks' goes a long way to getting help in the future or maybe I'm being pragmatic?
  14. Zefy Here is an idea, sorry have no clue what you good folks pay for exhaust work I helped make this and it cost me 150 US sure has a nice tone to it they are baffled mufflers Hi flow cats cost around 75 US You could get a two in, two out a substitute it for the "X" in this system
  15. Fished it out of the Bay of E (vil) 120 US greenbacks, never even had oil in it Say What?? here it is Brand new Brat Engine Here is the Brat My Brat
  16. Thanks Subie Tommy is a most excellent fellow. I pick it up next weekend. Merry Xmas to me a wee bit early. Just can't let the pretty half find out or I'll be sleepin under the "Topper" Gonna take it straight to where I work to get it ready for a squirt job.
  17. Thanks for the replies folks Mary I believe the Gem Top in the picture is fiberglass won't know till next week end I have a low line on my 86 I like the look and in this weather (just got 7 inches of the white chit) It protects "my stuff" Mick on your link there are no low line caps on the Gen I's I will assume they somewhat rare?
  18. I have seen many high toppers on Gen I's I am not in favor of them as they make the Brat look "top heavy" in my eye. Now comes this GEM TOP it is a low profile cap that matches the cab roof line. I like this look - if one must have a cap that is. Is this a somewhat rare Gen I cap or have I just been missing them? Thanks for any insight and Happy Holly Daze
  19. Matt, I will be doing a road trip soon but not for the bed cover in the ad. Destination -> Akron -- sorry but not your home town hint
  20. For the discriminating Gen I Brat owner If your Gen I Brat just has to different from all the others out there?? If this has been posted before I am sorry. Happy Holly Daze Bed Cover
  21. worn alt brushes will also cause this malady
  22. kibs please read the article Gary pointed you to you will note that possibly the problem (outlined in a Subaru Service Bulletin (SSB)) is with the shuttle valve in the governor not the gear that sometimes gets worn in the middle. I used the SSB to write the repair article.
  23. I am sure it does brought on by it's lame design enter the divorced wastegate
  24. Boosted correct you are this small curved section (basically a cut out of a 1/2" long piece of 2" exhaust pipe) is welded to the flange to direct the waste gate flow. It is not shown in this older picture. The complete pipe is also wrapped in header wrap. This keeps temps up and exhaust gas flow as high as possible. I run only a hi flow cat as a muffler as I have emission testing. The current waste gate poppet valve opens as far as the waste gate diaphragm will open it within the relief cast into the turbo's flange.
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