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When you wake up you may want to peek at http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/ hope this helps

I have an 87 GL-10 partsmobile It has the trip pooter with external temp as one of it's displays. I would like to mount this in my Legacy I am searching for the thermistor that senses the ambient temperature. I believe it to be in the area of the pass side headlamp Has anyone ever seen or removed one as I do not know what it looks like or it's exact location. Thanks in advance for any insight

Hi Tony Welcome to the good ship USMB. Here is an out of the box suggestion. Since the newer Subaru engines have electronically controlled fuel and spark. Why not get new cams ground and make the engine run in the opposite direction. *a new starter would be necessary. The drive train would then run backward and your rear engine / tranny combo would work. Now would the bevel gears and pinions take this reverse thrust? The hydraulic pump in the auto tranny would need to pump in reverse. Sorry, I'll go crawl back under my rock now. my soon to be rear engined "Suby powered" kit car

nope 2.2 = Legacy older than 90 = L- series 4 lug vs 5 lug posses some problems

Please reass this and email me http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=24832&highlight=

"The car doesn't have A/C, so there shouldn't be anything to hook up, right?" Right you are, Sir Monte

You're welcome The wiring harness connector for the switch is in the center console same side as the switch, close to the front of the panel very near the antenna connector

yes it is for the AC control I rewire mine to a small rocker on the dash beside the blower speed knob Having AC on your feet is kewl in the summer Hope this helps

HTi the vacuum modulator is part of the 3AT automatic transmission shift control. It senses the load on the engine via the intake manifold vacuum. When it diaphragm breaks... tranny fluid id sucked directly into the intake manifold and the burned in the combustion chamber result - clouds of white smoke out the tail pipe this has been mentioned in other posts

Luigi, I also own two Legacy T-wagons (mine are 93's) I have an HKS turbo timer in one of them. If you look at the dash to the left of the steering wheel down in the lower panel, there is a blank. My 91 SS has a storage bin there marked "TRAY" My 94 GT is shown above in this photo, has no tray Neither do my T wagons. I removed the cover and the T-timer is a perfect fit. I would get you a pict of it but it is on loan to my sister at this time. Sorry

white smoke in those volumes in most cases indicate a ruptured diaphragm in the auto tranny's vacuum modulator Check the tranny fl.uid and see if it's low or pull the vcuum hose off the modulator (front pas. side of transaxle) and see if it contains red ATF.

very common problem if cleaning all battery connections do not solve the problem then the starter solenoid contacts get somewhat worn the ignition switch starter contacts can't pass enough current to pull them tight enough to cause cranking so you can R&R the starter solenoid contacts or take the EZ way out like a lots of us have done and add a starter relay the wiring is shown below, I have had to do this to about 5 L-series I have owned Hope this helps

My first guess is fuel pump or fuel pump relay If you could connect a fuel pressure gauge with a line into the cockpit it would help. Might be a bit precarious having a charged fuel line in the cockpit? Another out of the box idea is to properly (active word) connect an 1/8th" NPT Tee after the fuel filter. To do this connect two fuel line hose barbs to the Tee then an oil pressure switch (for a dash idiot light). These can withstand gas and oil pressures much higher than the fuel system pressure. Use fuel line hose clamps and splice it in line with the output from the filter. If you add a short length of line make sure it is fuel injection hose. Total cost should be less than 20 GWs. Drain the fuel system pressure before making the splice. A 12 volt light wired in series with the switch will light when the fuel pressure is near zero. If this coincides with the stall then pursue the above entities. Hope this helps. Note: this may trigger a barrage from the nabobs of negativism but I have used it in the past to prove a fuel related problem.

Hush, I hope you understood what I ask you to do put #1 wire in the cap where #2 is and visa versa If you did that I'm sorry to bring it up again as you said spark plug the ERG solenoid is the problem causing the code This code has nothing to do with the valve itself. The codes will not clear until the solenoid is replaced with a good one. hope this helps good luck

Hush Please humor me here, swap plugs wires #2 and #1 at the cap (they should be diagonal from one another) and try it. The EGR solenoid is causing the code violations. The others could be from it running bad or "ghost codes". Replace the EGR solenoid valve and clear them - see what returns. Hint: get a solenoid from a 80's Honda if you can, *big plastic box on the firewall in the engine bay They are the same ohm rating and last longer it seems. Hope this helps

Welcome aboard River I sent you a private message in regards to this matter.

you probably inadvertently bumped the small rocker switch on the top of the steering column it is for turning on the parking lights with the key off you by far are not the first to do this

Trevor. Please excuse the confusion, you are correct I should have labeled the picture. What you see on the top row is the turned XT 6 unit-----the factory XT 6 unit the second row is the turned XT 6 unit-----the factory XT 6 unit -----the factory EA82T unit the third row is the second row in profile The bottom picture is the factory XT 6 down side up on the turned unit for profile comparission. Hope that clears it up

the later 2.5 engines were known to have "piston slap" at idle The piston skirt was to blame could we be hearing this in both examples There was reportedly no cause for concern

TC is right on but I find your typical garden hose fits my elephant sized ear better. LOL Placing a dowl or other cirular object in the working end will provive a means for pinpointing

I to own a 91 SS with 189k on the clock. She has a list of 6 error codes that will not clear even after 12 hours of battery disconnect. Many of the same codes you have seen. the difference and why I am typing this is..... she runs like a jewel, pulls very well thank you no sputtering or coughing She just passed PA emissions with typical Subaru flying colors. Your problem could be as simple as the basics. I would start with the fuel filter Maybe the coil pack/wires. I present C-dan

Would not be the first time a so called specialist forgot to relase the tensioner fresh belt was tight and has loosened up some when warm it has enough slack to hit the belt cover ?? stethescope can be a very good friend

Todd, the possibility exists that whomever did the T-belt replacement did not tension the belt properly and it is "flopping" around at idle. As the RPM build the centrifugal force keeps it from flopping I like the mechanics stethoscope idea Shawn has, if it is a tension problem it has the potential for skipping a tooth and causing some drivability issues.

Sorry GG I have to side with Frank on this one My NAPA dealers are not the cheapest but they do go a long way most times at helping me in the odd part dept. and they return wrong items with no question, except to improve their data base

Ryan thanks for keeping you post updated and glad we could help, you are most welcome