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I believe it's a sealed unit as it must respond to pressure. There is a diaphragm separating the internal halves If you change the rod's static position you could prop the wastagate flapper open thus delaying the boost or in essence introduce more turbo lag.

have you seen any indication of it having aux.lights at some time? It could be a control relay for them

Brian, I do not think changing the rod length will change when the waste gate opens. How far yes, at what boost pressure? - the spring in the waste gate controller needs weakened so the control arm will move at a lower pressure. Just the opposite of adding a spring for more boost

OB99W is correct and I am at fault I assumed and I should never do that, that the fluid level had been checked? It is sometimes difficult to get an accurate reading on some of these trannys. I have to check both sides of the dip stick to find a suitable representation level. Follow OB's and the endwrench article's suggestions and please post a follow up.

Most probable cause is low hydraulic pressure. This can be caused by *contaminated fluid *semi plugged filter *worn pump or all three. I would have the fluid changed via a power flush, and a new filter fitted (I do not know the answer to your second question.) By the way there is no "Power" in a power flush. The fluid that is returning to the pan first goes through the cooling radiator inside the main radiator. When a "power flush" is performed, the line to the cooling radiator is disconnected and spliced to a 2 chambered sealed reservoir. The two chambers are separated by a movable piston. One chamber contains new ATF and is connected to the cooling radiator. As the fluid is pumped in by the transmission the new fluid is forced out and into the cooling radiator and thus into the tranny. All fluid is changed this way including the fluid in the torque convertor. maybe add a bottle of transmission honey (Lucas makes a good one as does Seafoam) Good luck, a tranny is a terrible thing to waste

As Moosens pointed out, the east out shines the west here in Penn's woods. Matt., me (near Latrobe) and a couple other new gen guys try and hold the fort. Fort Duquesne that is. But also as the wise Moose says, if you get a chance to make a Pine Barrens run (home to the Jersey Devil) you will happy you did, I made the mecca once and it is was a blast.

Jordon, you are welcome glad it helped somewhat

sorry you missed it this is what I refered to

I tried the "search" feature, ya ought to try it sometime, works real well, found you this has a picture of one and some good info air suction valve

Tom take a minute literaly and look under the steering column. The connector is pink EZ 2 C If it's fried you'll know it Good luck

Michael, Thanks for the input. Please read the last five posts before yours.

Use the board to host the picts, click the word "Photos" top right. (see my email to you)

pull the fuel line off from the fuel filter input, add an extension to extend it to a gas can. plug the green connectors together turn the ig sw on. she'll pump the tank down. Don't take it to empty you don't want to pull all that crud through the fuel pump. did you get my email?

I agree with Jim (86Subaru) condensate can form on the cap. Lots of my Roo's have it. (I own and operate about ten) Not a concern NOW bubbles in the rad coolant out the overflow different matter Having a leak down test performed on the coolant system is the only real test.

Look at the axle to transaxle connection There have been reports of the grease being of the wrong composion and leaking out onto the exhaust (stains will be evident) It produces a very odd odour i.e. odor

Imdew is right on as usual, Josh is a bit busy at this time but he has a very detailed description of the swap on his most excellent site. Try it here http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/subaru.html

hope this helps http://www.deltacam.com/

I have seen a lean condition cause backfiring and it can cause the combustion process to go over temp. If there are any carbon deposits in the area, they could cause the pre ignition. You might want to look for a intake air leak in the area of the number 4 cylinder, -- intake manifold gasket, vacuum hose connection in the runner to #4. An easy test is with an unlit propane torch. Pass the gas around the area while the engine is running. If the idle smoothes out, you have located your leak. Hope this is of some help

Adam: Please excuse all my questions, as I find this an interesting project. do you frequent this site? http://www.electricdrive.org/ Have you considered using AC instead of DC? Siemans makes and excellent system but it's salty (i.e. high priced) Where are you sourcing the electronic drive control system? From what I have read, AC control is much more efficient and adaptable to vehicle powering. Here is one off the shelf unit that shows promise http://www.acpropulsion.com/Products/AC_150.htm I have two elveh's (electric vehicles) in the works. I think the one may go to EA81 power though it was designed as an elveh Good luck and keep the dream alive.

You typed "I had the car off the ground and turned the front axel by hand only the passenger side wheel would turn even though both axels turned. Is this normal or could that be part of the problem." If this is the case it looks like the splines that connect the driver's side axle to the hub (part that drives the wheel) are stripped. Here is a test, have the hood open, engine running, 2wd. Stand beside the car on the driver's side and look at the axle. Have a mate engage first gear and let out the clutch. IF the axle turns and the car does not move, you will need a hub and an axle as the spinning has probably knackered both. Hope this helps, good luck

Well go ahead General D "Also in the same picture is a blue hydraulic looking device - I suspect that's a hydraulic clutch setup for the VW tranny." Good Eye lad very good eye Ron, Hope to see you and your brother @ Carisle Thanks for the follow up.

I agree it's toast, but these are pretty stout units. Make sure it's getting coolant flow and pick up a used one from the marketplace section of the board. ~ 50- 75 GW's Another possibility is it got coked from not allowing it to cool off after hard running.

You did the cam shaft positioning correctly, well done. Reset the timing w/ the green connectors connected. Now for the green gas or "gum" as it may have become from the several years of sitting in the injectors. They may be plugged with the stuff, it is hard to pull one I know the fuel rail makes it a PIA. But If you had it in a jar you could verify it's squirting. Then a can of Seafoam in the gas tank and keep getting it to "hit" on starting fluid or gas poured in the thottle body. I had a JDM once that wouldn't fire, had been sitting for who knows how long it took to get across the pond. Using the above method, finally one cyl then two and eventualy all four had fire in the hole. Good luck, you'll get it Here is what the injector resistor pack looks like

The timing (ignition) must be always be checked with the green diagnostic connectors plugged together. The timing of the ignition system is controlled by the ECU. The ECU must be "frozen" in it's static position. To accomplish this the idle switch must be closed. (This located in the TPS and if the correct TPS is in use and it has not been "dittled" with, it should be closed at idle) and the green connectors connected. Pull the plugs and crank, timing should be ~ 20 deg BTDC You ignored the timing belt question on purpose - yes? While you have the plugs out for the above procedure, it may be a good time to check the comp. for this test Prop the throttle at WOT (Wide Open Thottle) and ground the coil wire, or pull the ECU/ignition fuse (#11) Hope this helps

another possibility when the swap was done they decided to do timing belts and botched the job (not hard to do) Have you run a compression check? I will assume when you said "I made sure the timing was correct" the timing (ignition) was checked with the green connectors connected? For the injector flow question, pull one stick it in a jar crank the engine to start and look for then smell the output. Possibly "green gas" is still living in the injection system. I like Gannons sug to check the injector ballast resistors.