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Just to test as it sounds like the second and forth cylinders have lost the fire in the hole swap plug wires 2 and 4 at the cap also your plugs may be gas fouled and you may have a spark plug wire problem I hope they are not Chumpions

Nuke, The way I have it done is to first remove the bracket using a angle grinder I then position and reweld the bracket up about an inch (see picture) The next trick to retain the proper angle and to clear the floor is to bend the connection rod. It is pictured on the left. I heated it with a blue tipped hot wrench (oxcetelene torch) This method retains the factory pivot ball at the bottom of the shifter. New bushing at this location also help tremendously. Hope this helps.

You may want to read Pacman's reply in this post Ignition relay problems and such

This pict shows how I fixed the slop and shortened the shift throw

Dave nice work. I would just like to add that late eighties/ early 90's Hondas have a black box mounted amidships (in the center) on the bulkhead (firewall) This box has about twenty rubber hoses to it. It contains no less than six of these solenoids. (Lost count as I have removed so many from mine) Well done Sir

MAV Air dilter looks rad. The valve I described is in the air cleaner, that's where it measure the temp of the incoming air. Only the hoses (to it and from it to the diaphragm) are plugged in on the bottom of the aircleaner housing. I can get pictures of the valve from my 78 Brat to compare. The hesitation is probably a weak accel. pump not the fuel pump. Pusher or pull push still fills the fuel bowl. Mine runs great.

MAV, I believe the hose with the bolt in it goes to the thermo valve for the the air cleaner snorkel to exhaust furnace control valve diaphragm. I now notice in picture three on the first page of this post, the diaphragm control valve has no hose on it. (it's on top of the aircleaner snorkel.) This system brings warm air into the air cleaner in cold weather. (not needed where you are) The thermo valve resides on the under side of the air cleaner. The line with the bolt, went to it, it controls vacuum to the diaphragm when it's cold enough, via another rubber line. The flex pipe from the opening in the underside of the snorkel to the furnace, is probably not there either. Hope this is what you are talking about

here's a picture for you of before and after doing what Caboo says about raising the pivot point you must also bend the connecting rod on the left

I believe Chux ment all manual shift EJ AWD's 4EAT's use a clutch pack controlled by the TCU

AMK try getting up to speed leave off the throttle pedal turn the key off *not to lock then back on

Mike, I read you mean the resistor would be in series with DsC when the switch is flipped? I don't know what that would do to the control duty cycle signal. But you could wire a SPDT switch with the common pole going to the TCU pin one of the switch poles going to the resistor then to ground the other switched pole going to DsC You would not know it was in four wheel drive untill the binding occured. Use a DPDT and wire a light to the other contacts?? Sorry about my lack of knowledge in reference to the newer cars. All my Legacys are 91 -> 94.

If what ever car this is has a rear sway bar. Worn bushings in the links to the control arms can cause this noise

thanks for the props on the display unit Nipper It does work rather well. On the manual AWD control. The resistor and the "MANUAL" light on the dash go a pretty long way to making it idiot proof, in my opinion. I have not removed my manual switch as possibly you have so I am just guessing here. But I think modifying the switch on the selector lever so that it is momentary may be more difficult than simply cutting and splicing some wires going to the TCU. Obviously one could add a momentary push button but I like the convenience of the switch on the gear lever. Thanks again for your replies and your thoughts.

I agree with Frag If the crash caused any problems in the fuel fill area you may have H20 collected in the petrol tank. if so... Bottle of isopropyl alcohol may cure it...

do go here though

Thanks for the reply Nipper but if one incorporates a "latching relay" They would have to modify the manual switch to be momentary. The latching relay would have to be a flip flop style first pulse - on second pulse - off If it were not a flip flop, there would be no way of turning the system off aside from turning off the ignition switch or killing the power to the relay (via another switch) The SPDT relay is much easier to obtain Some of the ice cube styles are configured this way. I tend toward the KISS method when at all possible.

Sure, but it depends on the shore durometer of the rubber. http://stripe.colorado.edu/~genovaj/Durometerscale.html

Although this subject has been covered. I thought I'd throw my method into the mix. Comments are encouraged. While wiring my transmission shift pattern display (see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54985 ) I had the opportunity to connect a control system so I could switch the rear drive “full on” at my discretion. Note: this work is performed in the vehicle working under the dash. Removing the TCU makes life much easier. It is held in with two 10 mm nuts and is very easy to access. (Please see above article for a photo of the location.) I wanted to do this in a fashion that 1)would have convenient switch 2)would have an indicator 3)would not cause the TCU to get it’s panties in a bunch Looking at the schematic for the TCU, I noticed the “Manual” switch on the gear selector lever was wired to provide a ground to a pin on the TCU. This ground also illuminates the dash indicator lamp. This afforded me a simple solution as I never use the “Manual” switch. Next, using a multimeter I measured the pure resistance of the duty solenoid C's coil. It measured around 15 ohms. Wired as shown, 1) the resistor keeps the ECU happy when locked in AWD, 2) the “Manual” indicator on the dash illuminates to tell me I am in manual control AWD, 3) the switch is very easy to reach and is pre-installed. Note: Duty solenoid C controls (opens) a hydraulic pressure drain valve for the rear drive clutch pack. When DsC is not energized the drain is closed and the clutch pack locks the rear drive to the engine output. Simply opening the circuit to duty solenoid C (causing the drain valve to close) will not cause TCU problems unless you leave it open and stop and start the engine. The TCU does a diagnostic check each time the engine is switched on. It will detect the open circuit and flash the “Power” light indicating a control error. Should you leave this system in the manual mode, the resistor will prevent the TCU from “seeing” an open circuit. If you have any questions about this circuit, please click on my board name and email me.

Whats that odd "ticking" upon start up and when idling? It's the Facet fuel pump. Isolate it from the mount with some form of pliable matting.

You may be an EE but I found it very hard to read your most interesting thread. This might help some people. I spent nearly $500 on parts chasing this problem and a couple of hundred hours with my head under the bonnet and the dashboard (yeah, we like the car a lot - when it's running well). After replacing EVERYTHING (MAF sensor, coil pack, Fuel pump, pressure regulator, knock sensor, ECU, putting heaps of valve cleaner through it and a heap of other stuff) I'd run out of ideas and was looking to buy another car. I then decided to build a data logger to monitor the ECU inputs while I was driving the car. This is basically a device that monitored the inputs from the MAF sensor, the oxygen sensor, throttle sensor and also the outputs to the fuel injectors. I also hooked up a fuel pressure guage. It's amazing to watch all the sensors and the ECU at work. The ECU constantly adjusts the fuel mixture for optimal engine performance and efficiency. I found it hard to drive whilst also watching all the lights and displays but, in the end, it paid off. What I found was really bizarre. And I can tell you guys right now "stop swapping parts" because you will NOT fix the problem. Firstly, the problem is a design problem (yes, even Subaru get it wrong sometimes) which is causing the ECU computer to "crash". This is why switching it off and restarting makes the problem "go away". Secondly there is a wiring error in these cars - my wiring diagram does not match the wiring that is actually in the car. If my wiring diagram is wrong then Subaru have two design problems. The problem will show up with different symptoms too. Usually no engine faults are recorded (probably because the ECU has crashed) but if a fault is recorded - Oxygen sensor faults are the usual ones but also knock sensor faults will show as well. Other symptoms are lack of power, misfiring and engine pinging. I'll give you a clue - the engine is running very lean but the ECU computer cannot compensate for this and it cannot work out why. It does seem strange that the problem only seems to appear as these cars get older - the Jideco ignition relay contacts deteriorating definitely play a part in this but the relay is only exacerbating the other underlying problems. I have DEFINITELY fixed my car and I can actually reproduce the problem at will. However, fixing the problem is not easy unless you're an electronic engineer (lucky for me, I am an electronics engineer, heh, heh, heh). I'm trying to work out whether I can make a kit of parts to fix the problem which can be easily installed by a handyperson. My current fix is fairly complex and would confuse the heck out of non-nerdy electronic type people. How many people are still interested in getting a fix for this problem? This sounds like a very interesting idea.

ROTO, sure would be EZ'r to answer if we knew which car's ECU you were askin' about - don't you think? Re gaurd less it is doubtful an ECU would power a rad fan directly, currents of this magnitude are handled by relays. 4 in stance, in the early model Legacy's, the ECU drops ground potential on the main fan's relay's coil via pin d17. This in turn turns the fan to turn. Hope this helps

Willy the wunder wagon currently on the block special price for USMB members

this is a pretty common problem with our gen Legacys if the the drain cleaning does not solve the leak please have a look at this http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=183

Pict = kiloword?? Sometimes it's just the contacts want cleaning. Like the ones in this pict, note the green corrosion. If the boot cracks from the heat of the turbo the water just sits in the "well" and well the contacts....

I own several Subaru’s and I have gotten into the habit of leaving the headlights on at all times. When I got my first Gen I Brat I was bummed because the headlights did not turn off with the key like my other Roo’s I went in search of an EZ fix. My local NAPA dealer had the answer. It is a lighting relay with a built in fuse. They also had clips that allow you to tap into the old style fuses that the Gen I’s use. Now I was armed with the above relay and three fuse clips. I needed a “blown” fuse (to toast one if you don’t have one, just connect two leads from the battery across it - poof.) The relay “built in” fuse should match the headlight fuse in the vehicle. It was a simple matter to wire the relay to turn on with the key. I used the ignition controlled fuse in the fuse box via one of the fuse taps I bought. I then grounded the other side of the relay coil. I replaced the headlight fuse with the blown fuse and the other two fuse taps. To these I wired the relay contacts. No worries mate. headlights turn off with the key. I took the liberty of showing a simpler method using an auxiliary lighting relay and a new style fuse. Crimp on female spade connectors can be used to make all the connections. 14 AWG wire should be used. Either way works but the "fused relay" is a “cleaner” method in my opinion. Click on my board name and email me if you have any questions.