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DM I agree with you It was hard to get my minds eye to see what he was describing. But When I got the latch (or lock remote as he calls it) on the bench, I saw just what he was talking about. I printed the article for reference. If you want, I have spare lock remotes now. I will gladly take some close up photos of the repair for you. Getting the plastic surround around the latch off was interesting.

Rob, that was the Austin Healey Sprite. After the BugEye or Frogeye model, they were also refered to as "Spridgets" "A" series engines came in 803 cc,948 cc 1098 cc and 1275 cc Triumphs small car was the Spitfire and used a Triumph 1296 cc (early) or later 1500 cc engine. MM's are way kewl but a bit Fra Jilly for my use.

brushes going south can cause these symtoms, Tex

Here is your fix as Sea says it is rather common you do not have to buy a new lock assm. http://www.geocities.com/hobiegary/locks.html

my check mark goes beside the fuel injection thermosensor pretty cheep less than .5 C note but a bit of a pain to change This being at fault will cause the rad fans to run after an attemted start and sometimes cause the fans to run continuiosly when the engine is running.

EZist way is two add two relays If you would like I can draw you the schematic for this. Email me if you like.

Chux Please, if you would be so kind as to try this. It may help some of us that are trying to help. Turn ignition switch to the run position. Clip test light lead to the battery negative terminal Probe the test light probe to the positive side of the coil. Does it light? answer _________ if yes Probe the test light to the negative side of the coil Does it light? answer_________ if no go to the fuse box clip test light lead to the bolt by the brake pedal hinge Pull fuse # 11 (second row, 3 fuses in) Probe the fuse holder on the side away from the full row of fuses Does it light? answer ________ if yes Use the test light as a fuse tester by clipping the lead to one leg of the fuse Then hold the other leg of the fuse against the negative battery terminal. Probe the positive terminal A good fuse will allow the light to illuminate if no find the large 6 pin (only 5 may be used) connector with wires running up to the steering column ignition switch area Probe the white wire in this connector Does it light? answer________ Please feel free to copy and paste and relevant sections

try the other connectors (black in color) the green ones are for setting the timing I did an advanced "search" for "surging" in the old gen section here is one good one, there are plenty more. I have also read where a low alternator output will cause this. surging problem here is a link to the ECU in the board's repair manual ECU Codes

John, The part you are missing is driving out the pin that holds the inner cv joint to the stub coming out of the transaxle. This inner joint is properly called the DOJ or Double Offset Joint. The DOJ is then pulled off the transaxle stub shaft by swinging the entire hub assm. away from the tranny. The DOJ is then dis-assembled by removing a snap ring on the inside edge. (Keep the balls in their respective positions) Another snap ring is then removed and the DOJ boot removed. Then, after removing the torn boot , the new CV boot is slid down the axle. Obviously one would want to clean up the axle before doing this. You will no doubt need new securing bands for the joints Please note/mark the position the DOJ is on the stub when you remove it as it only goes on one way. Hope this helps

Did some minor work to the front of my driver Brat don't think I like it, lights are too big deflector is too small (if was a factory deflector from a Forester that a large rock broke the end off of. I duplicated the good end on the broken end. Hides the rust though.)

Since this is just a guessing game I'll guess the tank with the pressure gauge is the oil pressure accumulator. It can be used as a pre oiler for the s-charger. (note the solenoid control) I'll also guess the blue cylinder is a hydraulic brake bias control as one end points to an area below the brake pipe distribution block. Hope we can get the new owner to join the forum.

I have one in my turbo wagon, but it is home made. I went to NAPA and bought an adjustable themoswitch. This unit has a capillary tube and a bulb, similar to a mechanical water temperature gauge. I used hose clamp and clamped the bulb to the lower radiator hose, then insulated it with some domestic hot water pipe insulation held on with wire ties. I got the loudest 12 volt sounder Radio Shack sells, mounted it under the dash and connected it to the switch. Gave the car a good run and set the alarm just above this trigger temp. Hope this helps email me for more details if you like.

Please do not take this wrong. I don't mean to question your test methods but using the fan could put quite a load on the circuits you are testing. With bad bearing it could be pulling over 10 amps running, 25 amps start up current. A parking light and a socket would be useful. You could see small voltages by examining the filament.

GD, they are shown in the FSM

Shy, This ia a bit convoluted but please bare with me. I have a 2000 Impreza 2.5 RS (same platform as your Forester, I have had two of them) I lent the car to my sister for a winter driver, her husband worked at the time at Kunkles Subaru in Delmont. He went to move it one day and the same thing happened - factory key in - no turn. He did the steering wheel jiggle like you did, no joy. Called me and told me the sad story as getting a service tech to his place was not going to happen. I used a small pair of vise grips clamped to the key and gently (operative word) tapped the vise grips on alternating sides. A few gentle taps and it came out. He had Kunkles make a new key from the number not the key and it has worked fine since. Good luck hope this helps. BTW I live 10 miles north of Latrobe.

NB There was a TSB** issued around the time our cars were born that spoke of this problem. Their solution was to clean the ground for the dash board components, as suggested by others. This ground can be found under the front passenger side intake manifold bolt. Note: these steel bolts luv to corrode to the alloy manifold they pass through and can snap like a carrot when removed. A soak in PB Blaster (keep the WD for wet ignition systems) and some taps with a hammer might help. Cougars check of the headlight ground is also a good idea. This ground point can be found on the driver's side inner fender in the area behind the coil bracket.. Hope this helps and good luck. ** Technical Service Bulletin

85Sub has a point The bracket ground is one of the power amp's "legs" Sorry Bill, he says he checked for spark at the coil wire. If the rotor set screw did fall out, he would still get spark at the coil wire. I'd check the ignition fuse first

First check the ignition fuse. Another item that can cause a no spark situation is the ignition amplifier. This item is a power transistor mounted below the coil and attached to the bracket that holds the coil. It amplifies the spark signal coming from the ECU. It is mistakenly referred to as an ignitor by some folk. This is incorrect as the ignitor is a module inside the distributor on some cars (not this one) that sends a spark signal to an ECU or other ignition control devise. Hope this helps

Sir KELTIK The thermo sensor could be the starting problem. The FI system needs to know what the coolant temp is so it knows how to alter the air fuel ratio. The thermo sensor is not the thermometer that sends the signal to the dash gage. It is a separate sensor just for the fuel injection system. They have a habit of getting corroded terminals, a cleaning can solve the CEL problem sometimes. This sensor is a pretty tuff nut to crack as it is buried behind the intake manifold and down almost on the block. Slightly left of center as you face the engine. Here is a shot of it on a semi stripped manifold (note the green colored corrosion)

Hi Matt, welcome to the good ship USMB on the idle problem Your EA82 has SPFI Single Point Fuel Injection also known in some circles as throttle body FI The systems have a common problem with the device used to control idle speed This device is called the Idle Air Control valve (IAC). They want cleaned periodically as they tend to gum up It is located on the front of the throttle body. See this link for more info on cleaning it http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49068&highlight=idle+air+control Hope this helps BTW the search engine does not repond to three letter words add a * as a wildcard for example IAC* not IAC

The repair manual for this site has a code chart for finding out why the CEL is on. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/subrepair.htm under "Engines Misc." Your connectors for checking are under the rear parcel shelf on the right side. It is probably the EGR solenoid But could be related to the starting issue. Hope that helps

Tom, I have had problems with a couple of my Brats at the pink connector that feeds the big juice to the entire ignition switched systems. This pink connector can be found under the st. col Mine looked burned from the ourside. I have simply spliced a 10 AWG wire around the connector.

Alex, Ed is correct be a shame to pay to have it done then find out you're kaput By chance have you seen this Carb to SPFI Conv. Manual

Howdy Tom, While checking cables ect. Dheck the connection to the fusible link where the alt output wire connects. The underside of the box where the spade terminal crimp is. . I also commute about 50 miles one way I know where you be comin' from Might try a "real" voltmeter also just to double check the dash unit. Good luck.

possible hydro-locked cylinder coolant from the intake gasket problem filled a cyl. pull the plugs - crank for 15 seconds reinstall plugs