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I figured it would get a knee jerk come on guys I didn't say "drink a quart" If just a taste on the tip of your finger would permantly cause you problems think of how many dectetives would be junkies from testing suspected substances. But okay for you folks that must have your say do not put anything in your mouth that is intended to be put elsewhere fair enough?

Moosens your diplomacy in these matters is truly commendable I vote we make you a candidate for the next USMB president HERE HERE

It is possible that the drain tray built to collect the AC evaporator coils discharge is also catching the leak from the heater core This tray has a drain tube located under the car next to the firewall. If you can find it, taste a drop of it's output fluid (just a drop -don't get excited) This may tell you where the coolant is going.

two quick thoughts you have a external voltage regulator alt on a car built for an internal VR (yes early EA81's had an external VR it also ran the fuel pump on some early Gen I's) Or vise-A-versa or a bad fusible link (must be tested with a multimeter) possibly a burned out "charge" lamp.

first thought left front wheel bearing or rear wheel bearings nice to know what kind of car it is though

Nice lookin and that is a beefy front bumper but it blocks your high beams? Those "geek lights" don't look long for the real world of bush bashin'

Tom is obviously correct on item one I would add that the HH functions as the clutch fork return spring.. It should be connected and adjusted. Adjusting the HH is a matter of trial and error Set the tension so there is some force holding the clutch fork away from the throw out bearing Find a up hill slope, when stopped with the clutch in pump the brakes once slightly and see it the car rolls backward when the brake pedal is released. If no make sure the car does roll when the clutch pedal is about 1/3 to 1/2 of it's travel released If the car rolls run the nut down the threaded shaft a bit more There should be two nuts on the threaded end - the second being a lock nut Now about item two?? I was going to say fuel filter also known as a "vapor separator" Then it sounded like the anti backfire valve now it sounds like something this side of the pond is not equipped with. Our L-series cars did not have carbs in 89 can you get a picture of this devise

okay guys time to cool some jets I guess I started this with my silly "Turbo'd V Tec" crack so I am going to finish it If you want to soup and beans up your EA Please use the search engine there are many posts to help you Thread closed

as Jon said..... I rust my case Welcome to 2006

Todd knows far more than I do about these cars based solely on my exposure to these cars from this area at that age.... when the rust eats through the top of the front fenders other "hot" spots can't be far behind e.g. rockers under floor engine cradle horns splash pans gas filler protectors X-cetera (these are very hard to find ;^) ) just to name a few Lets see some pictures of these areas

It's been a while since I saw your setup so I went out to the turbo department and fished out a VF11 It looks like the arm should move a bit more for total closure of the wastegate. You may want to pull the head pipe back and look

Jon, can't blame ya after posting I saw the rust on the front fenders this gives evidence of rust in many other places on these cars I think you did good to pass as this one is not up to your standards Good luck in your future searches

Wait a second, this is the XT that I owned for a while there was a constant problem with the wastegate actuator mechanism I would examine this area for a stuck open wastegate this might explain the problem

the ground for the gauge is the sender unit Get the wire color unit location from someone with a FSM

my check mark goes beside Tex's "C" could be CCC Classic Cat Collapse

get the mechanic to do a leak down test on the cooling system See if there is a milk colored sustance on the underside of the oil fill cap. You may have two situations working here leaking heater core and leaking head gasket

Hi Jerry, I thought about that but Dayn says they turn off with the ign switch if the relays were fused they would not turn off the power comes from a fusible link the relay control comes from the ign switch

"Now, if I were to just trace back the wiring from the headlights, wouldn't this also accomplish the same thing? Or can the short be anywhere in the harness to cause this?" yes..yes

sure would mate but on this side of the pond we never got that tranny

I have an 03 VDC with the ill fated "Blonde" Star system I would like to use the hands free phone portion of this system. Has anyone ever seen a link to hacking the box and tapping into just the phone. Or even seen the box? I would use my existing cell phone provider. Use a mini plug into the era phone jack. I know this box is tapped into the security/door locks ect... but

right you are Flyb0y a lot easier than trying to watch to see if they flash when the short is found

Here we are again, playing guess the vehicle (shame on us that have signatures ect turned off to save a minuscule amount of bandwidth) there is no relay - sorry about that to My check mark goes beside Tom's idea. I'd pull the pass. side rear lamp assm. There should be a connector there. Test to see if you get juice on the ________ colored wired when the brakes are applied. (don't know the vehicle so I don't know the color) Use a broom or other object to prop the brake pedal down or short the brake light switch.

"but going from the 4.11 to the 3.90 would "correct" my gearing from my lift and bigger tires" I am sorry to inform you that this is incorrect. It would make matters worse the taller tires are the same as numerically lowering your diff ratio, meaning you go further with each drive shaft revolution. Not what you want for wheeling or correcting your gearing. To "correct" your gearing for tall tires you would need to go to a 4:44 ratio. 4.11 one Drive Shaft revolution = (1 /4.11) x revolution of the tire rev of the tire = Pi x Dia (24" ) one DS rev. = 18.33 inches 3:90 one DS rev = (1 /3.9) x rev of the tire rev of the tire = Pi x Dia (24" ) one DS rev. = 19.33 inches

Well first lets play guess the vehicle? Now assume it's an 85 Brat We will now look to how the lights are wired The positive battery voltage via the ignition switch controlled lighting relay, is applied to the common terminal of the hi/lo lamps. For a filament to illuminate it must also have a ground or negative battery connection. So I would start looking for wire chaffing or shorting to ground anywhere the wiring harness can come in contact with the body. Sometimes in these difficult to find problems areas a little shake rattle and roll of the harness can cause the culprit to expose itself. I would connect a sounding device (12v buzzer or similar) across the head lamp terminals I can then hear if I have found the offending point of interest. Hope this helps

gotta luv the candy striper st. wheel cover appears the optional "doggie in the rear" air bag has been deployed? Go for it Jon, body does look cherry, price looks well .... too bad it's not a clam back, but then you would have to do battle with Andrew