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http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ bout half way down the page or right out of the FSM http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=4258&sort=1&cat=500

EGR system Purpose An Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system is used in order to lower Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx) emission levels. The EGR system accomplishes this by feeding small amounts of exhaust gas back into the combustion chamber. High combustion temperatures cause NOx. Combustion temperatures are reduced when the air/fuel mixture is diluted with the exhaust gases. So you can use lower octane fuels with out pinging, You could fail an emission test. You can find a useable one in a bone yard (take a multi meter with you) or You could choose to live with it. BTW disconnecting the battery does not erase error codes. It does reset the "learn mode" though. Hope this helps

Thanks Ross I sit corrected., never saw this on an early EA81

Possibly the VSS in concert with the idle switch (in the TPS) tell the ECU the car is in a condition where the idle control map should be employed. This would involve the closing of the EGR solenoid.

You have an EA82 If you closely at the front of the block it will be cast there It will also be cast in front of the exhaust outlets on the head. Fuel system SPFI Single Point Fuel Injection It is a SOHC Single Over Head Cam one cam per bank of two cylinders Hope this helps

having owned many Blokemobiles from my first car (57 TR 3 still have it) AH's MG's and a beautiful series III XJ 6 like yours I also have a bakers dozen of Subarus on the lot currently. Use the Jag for your Sunday go to golfin' car but keep the Subaru for a daily driver BTW part of the fuel cross over system is in the trunk under the spare also the solenoid valves are behind a door above the rear tires. I believe I still have my FSM for the series III

Just a few things to consider. 83 could have a feed back electronically controlled carb and an ECU with an 02 sensor. If you do go to the Weber DGEV this is a mute point. The Weber may or may not have a choke pull off. The secondary barrel on both the Hitachi and the Weber are not connected to the intake manifold. Hitachi having an internal vacuum source Weber is mechanical I also think this car will have a manually controlled ventilation system, so there will not be a vacuum line to the heater. I also think he may want to keep the distributor vacuum advance in the loop. Serendipitous removal and plugging of the canister lines can lead to the fuel pump causing a vacuum in the gas tank as it removes the fuel. You must make sure the tank has a vent. just some flatulous rambling

I am at a loss instead of saying it sux and throwing parts at it why not check the ECU error codes? maybe it's a case of ecuolepscey (fear of electronic control units) :^)

you're welcome

Scott nailed it if you want to do it OTC (On The Cheap) new hog rings w/ pliers $12 A must have. Couple more cross springs would help to. Reinforcement foam? You must have something in the shed - life preserver cushion/jacket Old couch, pillow? But you will need some time. This is the most precious commodity.

"Why did i buy these Haynes manuals anyway?" Perhaps you thought they were an underwear catalog? Good point by Hattori on the glass fuse idea. Have seen this more than once. This ignition switched medium current hot lead MAY have an in line fuse under the dash?=> doubtful Have you actually tested for power at the choke? no doubt you have. Some models did have a relay for the auto choke. The power feed for these may be a fusible link. Please test these. bump for help from a real old schooler scholar

yo mate, please click this and give it a read Engine check light mysteries Go to the links in the post Remember your ECU is under the rear parcel shelf beside the pass. side speaker. Sounds "MAF"ish to me. But whadu-I know - - nuttin' and I don't wanna know nuttin'

welcome to the good ship USMB on your question "Could this be just the thermostat?" could be the recent number of posts on faulty NON factory thermostats would astound you. better quasi guess is you are low on coolant or the system needs an air blocking embolism exorcised. Get the nose in the air and ask if there are any cooties in there. Remove the rad cap let it idle till warm. With luck she'll burp you some good ones. Refill, replace the cap, and see if it solves the problem. Hope this helps and again welcome to the Subaru board

Btna, I am sorry to inform you that there is quite a bit more involved than just slappin a turbo on a non turbo engine. You could expect about 20 horse power and a blown engine. (piston, rings, head gasket all come to mind) The transmission would probably be okay as the engine would grenade before it had a chance to take out the tranny. Your better bet is to take the entire lump, gear box, rear diff and wiring with the ECU and and and and - -- out of your SS and do the nasty. Shame hackin' a SS like this though. I know it hurts. BTW we have a "search" function at the top of the page. It will reveal testimony supporting this answer.

Fat I am trying desperately to correlate and oil change and a engine idling problem. You didn't mess with anything else? The only answer I can come up with is somehow when removing the oil fill cap you a) dislodged a major vacuum line or knocked off a spark plug wire, or c) your PCV valve is after market and you left the oil fill cap loose (this may cause a loss of manifold vacuum) On the heater blower "konk" out I am sorry to disagree with Mr. Turbone. The control circuit for the blower fan bypasses the resistor block on high speed. I believe you will find your blower switch is knackered. McBrat just published a very good troubleshooting guide in the repair manual.

Steve, you ask "Can someone describe what I need to do to get the ball out, or one of your alternative methods." I never take the ball joint apart when doing an axle R&R for the exact reason you made this post. alternatively I remove the one bolt that connects the lower control arm to the frame. The sway bar mount and the brake line clamp are easy offs. I feel this is much easier than messin' with the B-J Hope you feel better and that this works for you.

Sorry for your loss., nice wagon. About your question, yes our turbos can have problems as you describe if the gas does not live up to the expectations of the knock sensor and other bits in the fuel injection system. Probably would not hurt to throw a can of Techron or Seafoam in with a fresh tank of high test as.. The injectors may want a little cleanin Good luck and agian shame about the wagon hope all parties involved are safe.

could try here http://www.piercemanifolds.com/

Sir, your headlights work on a ground control configuration. In laymen's terms this correlates to The element you want to light is provided a ground or negative power reference via the lighting hi/low control on the steering column. The common terminal on the lamp is provided the positive reference via the lighting relay. Which for safety reasons are divided left and right, each having their own relay. This is opposite to what "normal" American cars use. These provide the positive reference to the beam you want to lite and ground the common terminal of the hi/lo beam lamp. If any of this makes sense to you. Please reply .

Lookin good so far, hope the plumbing comes up lookin as good. I am sure it will but for those of us that do a top mount Here is a Starion mounted without major mods to the piping. The long end was cut down with a tubing cutter Chose you own connection to the throttle body. I left mine stock after cutting the end off as I use it for placement of my auxiliary injector. Tip, if you need some odd sized connection rubber parts. Silly Cone is best but $$$ I took a diagram of the hose I needed to the parts store that had rad hoses hangin' Dared to compare and found ones that matched up just had to cut them down a little. Remember to get ones with the internal spring so they will not collapse. 5000 big boost (12+) miles not a problem thus far. Sorry for the h.jck and Keep the chunks down Kevin.

Like Ross says......... the damper that comes with a "test vacuum gage" is nothing more than a connector with a small hole in it (hole dia.~ 0.03" or a 1/32" drill bit) The vacuum tree just behind the throttle body is a good place to tap. Put the"T" you have in one of the lines off of this tree. Get a short piece of vacuum line.(~12") Get a line to line connector and epoxy it closed. Drill a 1/32 hole in the epoxy. Connect the new line to the boost gauge line with the modified connector. My bet is that is way too much work, you would rather just spend the money.

I currently own both an 88 RX with the ten speed tranny, cntr diff lock and LSD and a MY00 2.5RS with the 5 speed. sorry without some serious mods the RX will be a disappointment That said, buy it NOW. Do not dottle or gag your lolly.

since this happens quote the car surpasses normal and climes half way between normal and hot Then I am inclined to think you have a air block in the core. Get her nose high in the air with it warm and running and see if she'll burp herself. Might try putting a "flushing "T"" in one of the heater hoses. Make sure the valve is all the way open, I believe you will find this close to the bulkhead on one of the heater hoses under the bonnet. The cable could has slipped it's mooring. How come we see all these non factory T-stats in question? answer Maybe they're J _ _ K?

I take it from the picture you have identified the boost pressure switch. Pull the barrel shaped electrical connector apart. Short the terminals on the car harness side (remember this sensor is only a pressure switch that closes at like .25 PSI) See if the light lights with the key on, unlikely but the lamp could be burned out. If so, then make sure the hose to the switch leads directly to an intake manifold hose barb.

see if this helps little tuff from your pict but the input fuel line should be connected to the injectors And is a larger diameter than the return line Here is a bit of a trick you can skip If you ever need some gasoline (like for the lawnmower or such) You can connect a piece of fuel line to the FPR return hose barb, start the car and a nice controlled flow of petrol will eminate from the hose) (sorry lost my FTP connection have to use the board) click this -> FPR Location