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Dale You would be well advised to get a newer generation Subaru engine but this gent has what you are looking for and is liquidating some assets. Not too far from you. Please read the entire ad , for the engine not yet installed http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27230

Mr. Chan With money and ambition your goal can be realized. You may want to consider finding a wrecked WRX better yet an STi WRX This power plant and drive train with the proper massaging will yield your dreams.

sorry Greg the problem has nothing to do with the PVC location it's all about the cam cover on the outside of the engine on the turn. The breather ingests the oil and it is sucked into the intake manifold - burned - and the plume of smoke is the result. Maybe you could mimic the fix Subaru came up with but Please be aware if you create excess crankcase pressure you risk the chance of blowing the cam and other seals out.

Much easier to read - thank you so much. May I be so bold as to ask a few more questions This is a very interesting problem. the dash lights work when the ignition key is on accessory (sp)?, not the run position. Since you do not say I will assume, the headlight switch is in either the "parking" or" headlight" position? A more direct question is. 1) Are the dash lights off until you turn the headlight switch to the parking light position? answer____ 2) With the key still in the "acc." position.The dash lights then stay on even when turning the headlight switch to headlights? answer____ the dash lights work still when the car is running, with the parking and headlights off. This tells me the dash light are constantly on any time the car is running and the headlight switch is in the off position. answer____ when the car is in running position, and i turn the switch one time to the parking lights, the dash goes off then also. So to reiterate, anytime the car is running and the headlight switch is off, the dash lights are on (?) Hot dong - the one way I can see this happening is if the dash light dimming module (small wheel on the dash to the left of the steering column -should have a small picture of a light bulb beside it.) This unit may have an internal problem causing the dash to be on as it is. Where upon the 12v from the ignition switch being turned to run, causes the module to open circuit. Will you try this please? Start the engine. Turn the headlights on. Spin the dimmer wheel form one extreme to the other while watching the dash lights. Thanks again for making your reply so easy to read.

Dave, Congrats on your degree, well done sir. The post you show from me was for testing the fuel injection thermo sensor The chart shows resistance reading vs temp for the sensor. I have 2 fluid and 2 air temp monitors mounted in my turbo wagon. I have placed my thermocouples in a) the air cleaner element the throttle body bore, just above the throttle plate c) the water jacket (upper goose neck fitting - just before the radiator but after the thermostat) d) in the oil pan approx. 2" past the bottom of the dip stick. Note: this is an intercooled turbo engine with some modifications. Your exhaust temp should be before your first cat. The cat will be combusting unburned hydro carbons and the exhaust temp afterward will not be a true combustion chamber temp representation. Hope this gives you some ideas.

If I didn't know better I'd say that carb was "dumping" Meaning flooding serious If you pulled a sp. plug after it stalls is it black and wet? Ever see black smoke on the restart? How do you have your return line to the tank plumbed?

Sorry real wild hair here have you tried turning the main idle speed screw up until it will idle? It is possible you were running on the fast idle cam the jounce bumped the cam enough to allow the throttle to now rest on the main idle speed screw which is set too low? grabbing straws in the dark

the CS is also on the goose neck housing see the other post where you asked this

HEET is a brand name for dry gas yours may already have frozen fuel lines though. I assume it was 7 deg F The CS is on the upper rad hose connection. There are two there one for the dash gauge and one for the FI.

Auxiliary Air Valve controls idle speed during warm up on MPFI fuel systems Idle speed regulation on an FI engine is basically a controlled vacuum leak - this is the control unit.

Seems like a real common problem this last week I'd have to say H20 + Petrol don't mix try some HEET or the coolant temp sensor for the FI wants it's connections cleaned or replaced. Best course of action is to find out whats missing fuel or spark

wipers doing the "herky jerk" very common problem on our vintage Roo's A search for "intermittent wiper problems" might find some of the old posts. but as I remember There are several contributing problems. 1) The timer module PCB solder connections - most common. Some have resoldered them or a boneyard model may work - (it is mounted on the trim panel that is above you knees when driving.) 2) A corroded ground connection at the wiper motor. (under one of the three wiper gear box cover screws) 3) The park position swiper arm contact (inside the wiper gear box cover) Good luck, a lot of us have this suffered this problem at one time or another.

affirmative sir EA81T or EA81 - FSM showed no diff. with a filter the total cap is real close to 4.5 US qt. Mine like the wee bit above the DS full mark it seems. Hope this helps.

Assuming you will change the oil filter 4.0 Liters or 4.25 US Qt. - 3.5 Imp Qt.

small warning: Methyl Hydrate also know as shellac thinner can be used but has recently shown to disolve some plastics in the fuel system. The ethanol fuel line additives do not. Note: this may be country specific information.

I can scan and send the EA82T diagrams to you. But Any stuff I have is for cars with the st. wheel on the wrong side. (off side) All I have is the factory service manual and it's print on wiring diagrams is small also. Possibly it would not matter. I am still looking for a link for you, there are some out there. edit: found one - the EA82 serice manual in . pdf Subaru manuals I know you do not want to spend any quid but for 20 american you can get all the info you need here http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/index.jsp

no idea of where you are from but it sure sounds like symptoms Northguy told you or it could be water in the gas do you know what "dry gas" is? how about rubbing alcohol? how about isopropyl alcohol? They are all the same thing try a can in the petrol tank Does this car have two fuel filters? Some cars with carburetors in the USA do.

This maybe of some help. Weber carbs ansuch Look down the page after the install stuff It has photos of what you need to look at I also found this interesting, possibly taking this cap off and shoot the juice to it bruce through it?

Mark, my apologies to you sir. You are correct. Followed the wrong lines (put your reading glasses on dummy) Sorry for the incorrect information. If the pink connectors at the top of the kick panels are separated and used for the front speaker connections. Then the rear speakers can be wired to the rear speaker wires that run to the radio. This is probably easier than finding the black muti pin connector in the wire jungle behind the radio. P.S. A simple way of testing for the correct wires is to use a 1.5 v dry cell battery. Voltage will not hurt the speaker voice coil, and a nice "click" can be heard when the proper wires are connected to the battery. To clear up a misconception - there are no speaker wires running to "ground" in this system..

Blue Train has a very good point - please pass the Aspirin! Talking to the PO in this regard (PO= Previous Owner) may shed some light (pun intended) To continue: Mr. Phifer Sir, the key ingredient in this entire diatribe is the "key" the ignition key that is. I tried in desperation to explain this to you but I seem to have failed miserably. We are trying to help you, we know you know very little about these cars. This is precisely why I tried to explain the way it should work. Operative word here - "tried" - I obviously failed. I also attempted to get you to use the "enter" key on your keyboard more frequently Another failure. :^( Please, I implore you if you would like my continued help, when you tell us the dash light are on or off, please include what position the ignition switch is in and use the "enter" key in between statements. Turbone and Torxx suggested long ago it might be the combination switch (the stalk mounted headlight switch on the steering column), I would tend to agree with him IF it were not for this statement by you, may I be so bold as to quote "when i have the car not running, the dash will stay on when i turn the switch for the lights to turn on" I am sorry that is out of context, you follow the statement immediately with "but they don't, when i start the car, the lights are on but no dash lights" I will close with a statement I made previously and it's relevance " 1) the parking, dash, and head lights ONLY work when the ignition switch is in the "run" position." This means, put simply - if the ignition key is in the "off" position, the dash lights should not operate anytime. to quote you once again "understand?" Your last reply says this is not the case. i.e. they WILL operate with the key off. This is an US model car isn't it? Maybe the Canadians are different?

Dave the distributors in the EA82T of your vintage are called crank angle sensors. 5sp and automatics are the same. All timing is handled by the ECU after the initial or static timing is set. i.e. no advance - mech. or vac.

Sorry Mark, But my 89 EA 82 FSM shows both the front pair and rear pair of speakers have one wire of each speaker connected to one wire of the other speaker in the pair. This connection is between the connectors I mention and the radio.

Sorry, my Weber 32/36 DGEV has an ADS. seen next to the bowl vent Sounds like something is lodged in the idle jet or an air emulsion tube. I'd try a can of Seafoam in the fuel tank and a "mexican" tune up (rev to 3000 choke closed the carb opening) Yes you can get the top of of the fuel bowl. My gasket did not break when I tore into it. But they are some mitigating levers on the choke linkage you must also deal with aside from the screws mentioned.

Long Wheel Base????

Ross is spot on about the spring washer the FSM says "paint toward nut"?? By the way the torque is listed at 145+ ft-lb