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Hayden here is a link that will be of some help http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=53 I am moving this to the retrofitting section some good reading there

KB the link says use the black connectors "Read Memory" connectors Might try those Might try clearing the codes and see if it resets the same.

torXX The best places I have found are 1) the line that comes off the turbo housing just above the large opening going to the intake plenum. This line goes to the boost control solenoid and then to the waste gate. This point shows the turbo boost output. 2) If you add an intercooler, I would change it to the connection behind the TB. This point will show true manifold pressure. I put a "T" in the line and run the new line to the cockpit through the grommet under the brake booster . Hope this helps

Here is a close up shot from a lower angle hope these help.

Kevin I took some pictures of my EA81T manifold. As you can see my Quasi assistant "Moto" is pointing at the sensor you seek. Please see next post for a labeled close up

E, The shift lock does not have to do with the problem but the speedo very well could. If you can find the time, please read my response in this post it will show you the front VSS may be the problem. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28198 The TECU codes may reveal this. You do not need any tools to check these codes. Sorry I couldn't help. Good luck with your problems.

Kevin, Sorry mate it will not be the same on an EA81T But GG's comment is spot on in reference to the green meanies. Did you look at the link I pointed to? Gallery registration may be full at this time. The upper rad housing a.k.a. "goose neck" is where you will find your FI coolant sensor. I will see if I can get a picture of mine for you today. If you want, send me the picts in .jpg format and I'll upload them for you. neper at alltel dot net

Eric, Please let the power of the Pleiades work for you. The ECU for the fuel injection and the ECU for the transmission (TECU) both will yield error codes for you to diagnose your problem Josh, aka Legacy 777, has an excellent web page set up which will be of much help in this endeavor. He is the Guru on these cars http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru Hopefully this will get you back on the road until you can find a newer Legacy RHD Skip - owner of a 94 Legacy X-mail carrier

sounds like another froozen fuel line /water in the gas post WOW there must have a dozen this week alone. whats up with the petrol in this country.

couple things KT first the engine/ fuel system we refering to might help. the instructions for posting pictures are listed at the end of the first yellow print line in this link picture gallery Here is a picture of a coolant sensor on a EA82T

Revving the snot out of it literally is not a recommended procedure in my book. Of course your's may read differently. Getting the waste gate to open with the car not moving is very unlikely. Even building boost is difficult. The cat could be plugged but that much exhaust gas passing through the turbo with no air moving around it may allow it to glow. You could try driving it and checking it. A boost gage would help with the diagnosis. Congrats on getting it running good luck with it.

This might be what you were looking for It has the info you requested Junk yard tips Hope it helps.

Aye, mate have a read on this - might help It's from the repair manual listed on the top of the page (USRM) Reading Error Codes

Another way to check for an ECU (Emission Control Unit) Is to look for an 02 sensor in the exhaust "Y" pipe. The saying goes NO 02 - No ECU Hope this helps

Welcome to the good ship USMB. The issue with the no crank is a common problem. The first things to examine are the cable to connector junction on all battery cables and their connection points. If you are satisfied that the problem does not exist there the ignition switch starter contacts are suspect. This can be tested by running a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the small spade connector on the back of the starter. If the starter turns (i.e. engine cranks) the addition of a simple lighting relay is the simple fix, or the addition of an auxiliary push button. Here is the wiring for the relay. Please do not take this as a smart remark but.. I am a bit confused by your use of the word "short" A "short" is a connection between two conductors that should not be connected. This usually results in a blown fuse or melted wiring. An "open" is when a conductor does not connect to another conductor. result here is the device does not function. If you mean you are seeing an open between the positive battery terminal and the fusible link - check the spade connector where the link itself is connected. I assume you mean the fusible link closest to the strut tower. These do have a habit of getting corrosion in the contacts which can result in an open circuit. Hope this helps some.

is it possible the car was idling when the turning of the st. wheel caused the light show? If so maybe the alt belt is loose and the ps pump load slowed it to a point where the output was too low?

Sorry for the mis information Frink You car does not have the "power" light you may need to get the codes by using a scan tool.

Come on down, Scott goes way out of his way to make this a "don't wanna miss" event

Frink A power flush of the tranny fluid may help. The AWD system on your automatic is controlled by the Tranny ECU (TECU) watching the two Vehicle Speed Sensors (VSS). Simply put, one VSS watches the front wheels the other the rear. When a programed differential for a certain time exists the TECU sends a signal to the Duty Solenoid C (DS C) located in the tailshaft of the transaxle. This solenoid controls hydraulic fluid flow to a clutch pack that engages the rear driveshaft. A noteworthy point here, DS C controls the drain for the clutch pack. If DS C goes bad or is disconnected the rear shaft is connected similar to a 4wd system as all the fluid pressure goes to lock up the rear drive. Question for you: does the "power" light flash when the car is started? If so there will be an error code stored in the TECU warning of which component is not functioning Legacy777's website has an excellent write up on how to retrive and read these codes. Might want to start with a power flush or just a drain and fill.

Here is one of the best you can get http://www.chevron.ca/ProductsServices/Retail/FuelSystemCleaner.htm

minor edit Northguy says " Caution: disconnect the starter first" I believe he means "battery"

dunk Due to your location (across the pond from most of us) you have us at a bit of a disadvantage. Our cars do all have 02 sensors since around 1987. There were a few odd balls (87 4wd carbed models come to mind) But the Euro cars have been known to employ EGT (Exhaust Gas Temp) sensors in place of the 02 sensor. This no doubt due to the fact leaded gas was still available (lead kills 02 sensors). Best bet is to contact a dealer or forum in your area. The ECU does have a programed map to use when the 02 sensor fails, but the petrol mileage will suffer. Sorry I couldn't help.

All of what Larry says is true I would like to add. The problem you are experiencing is the starter "bendix" is not engaging with the teeth in the flywheel properly. Prolonged use in this condition will remove the teeth on the flywheel. Requiring engine or transmission removal. This may have already occurred. The engine when shut off, stops at only two locations. 1 or 3 on compression 2 or 4 on compression So as you continue to grind, the teeth on the flywheel in these two locations are in jeopardy. If you choose to do the job yourself, get a mirror and look at the flywheel teeth. Good luck

Habib, The "Gate" number is asking for the "Gates" number - Gates is a manufacturer of belts and other automotive aftermarket parts. Here is a list that may be of help- I got it from the Gates web site Cam. Belt; Left Side Automotive Timing Belt T299 Cam. Belt; Right Side Automotive Timing Belt T300 Cam. Seal Timing Component Seal KS14772 Crankshaft Seal Timing Component Seal KS14738 Timing Component Kit Timing Component Kit TCK299 Cam. Idler Sprocket Timing Belt Pulley T42022 Cam. Tensioner Assy. - Left Hand Timing Belt Tensioner T41062 Cam. Tensioner Assy. - Right Hand Timing Belt Tensioner T41061

Hoozie, I am a charter member of the KISS Club. I ran the thermocouple wire down the dip stick tube. My TC wire is 22 AWG so the rubber grommet on the dip stick holds it in place just ducky. The TC for the coolant, runs under the upper rad hose, does a "U" turn and sits almost on top of the t-stat. The one for the throttle body (intake air temp) runs under the rubber boot connecting the intake plenum to the TB. The TC wire is expoxied to the wall of the TB. The junction is in the air flow. My air cleaner is now mounted inside the inner fender, the TC goes through the hole I cut for the duct and simply wedges in the folds of the element. Hope this helps and good luck with the project. BTW I use a Fluke rack mount lab digital, using type "J" TCs, with a TC selector switch. It needs 120 Vac so I have a cheap (150 W) inverter mounted in the glove box.. Take a peek if you want Fluke an such mount Picture