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If possible I would get a genuine Subaru part here (88 deg C) They are not that expensive and are much better than the after market variety. Then "burp" your system to remover air pockets by elevating the front of the car while filling. (ramps are good for this) The position of the heater core and the rad fill port make this mandatory. Note: there is no coolant valve in the system, temperature regulation is done via a "blend door" Hope this helps .

or use the sissors jack to jack the front driverside wheel off the ground. start engine, engage a gear and see if it will drive off the jack

not wanting to put a poo poo on this quest for the holy grail of fuel cuts but the application chart on the original picture shows it is also for the DL model. As far as I know - no DL were equiped with a turbo. Could this item be the device that shuts off the fuel pump in the event of a crash? BTW the 89 FSM shows this devise in use ONLY on automatic shoulder belt models

Sub, In all fairness the ECUs in these cars are very dependable. The next on my list of trials in your case would be to find someone on the board with a spare SPFI ECU and try it. Do you know what a "noid" is? FI noids -$11.00 It will tell you if the injector is quiting as It is still a possibility that the fuel pump shuts down - you do know the fuel pump control is tied into the seat belt system don't you? But you say you can see it shut down - the intake plenum must be removed. So let me get this straight You have the engine cranking over to start You look down the TB and see gas being injected You connect the coil primary side???? The engine fires - you release the key to the "run" position The engine runs for a short time and dies. Is this correct? The info on the system operating with the MAF disconnected is some what confusing. I have seen them run for several seconds (possibly 10 ) and then shut down. I am very sorry I should keep me cake hole shut. I own no SPFI cars - all of mine are carbed or hot wire MPFI. I have only worked on several of these beasts.

83squared the board has a very good repair and modification section seen at the top of the page "USRM-Repair & Mod" here may be what you are looking for http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=37

Scotty, One of the main components to the engine running is the MAF. It is on the air filter box and connected to the engine via the intake tube / plenum. You do NOT mention replacing the intake plenum any time you run these tests. The ECU will see no air flow and may not deliver fuel if it is not connected when the key is in the "run" position. The other main component in the firing of the injector is the crank angle sensor as Cougar pointed out. This unit is inside the distributor (it is the firing signal for the injector and for the spark) Gentle warning here - please do not start another post just do a continuation of the original. People that may want to help need the information.

Charlie is correct http://www.millsupply.com/ You might have to call their cat. does not show all their products.

you mentioned reading the manual did you skip the part about NOT using 4wd on surfaces that have good traction? as mudduck says all locked center diff 4wd cars/trucks (like yours) will suffer "wind up" Thus the use of said devise on surfaces that will allow one wheel to slip. Engage only when the surface affords some slip - gravel, dirt, snow ect. Rain covered roads do not qualify unless they are flooded. Listen to mudduck he sounds like he did his homework - i.e. read his manual

you should go back and read Qman's post more closely. You have an open rear diff but a locked center diff this is what is causing the jumping, NOT the rear diff. You brothers truck no doubt has an open center differential.

I don't like to be a "nay sayr' " but NW is very correct, the difference between the electronically controlled 4EAT with overdrive and lock up torque converter over the poor 3AT is amazing. I have both an 87 GL-10 3AT (4000 RPM @ 70 MPH) and an 89 GL-10 4EAT (2500 RPM @ 70 MPH) so I can tell you in all honesty- hold out for the 4EAT or plan on converting to a 5 speed. Sounds like he is asking about twice what it should bring with the troubles you describe. Ask him about - timing belt, H20 pump, oil pump service and head gasket problems. These are the important issues. BTW the 3AT is is notorious for developing governor problems at this mileage. and They have a nasty habit of loosing the seal between the front differential and the tranny. The fluids mix and it's good bye 3AT. Good luck and I will add the GL-10 with all it's trinkets is also better sound insulated and more user friendly than the normal GL (yes, I have one of those also). Trouble is the more "gadgetry" the more likely you are to have problems. Hope you "are 1" with a multimeter.

Have any of you thought to look at the EGR valve? Do these have EGR valves? The test for the EGR valve is to open it manually with the engine warm and idling. If the engine stumbles and tries to stall it means the EGR valve is closing as it should. Sounds like your EGR is not closing - probably due to crud build up on the pintle and seat. It must be removed to clean it. Some older Roo's have an EGR light to remind you to clean it. Just a WAG

sounds like the battery voltage is falling below threshold. could be a loose alt belt could be corrosion on any of the battery connection points. Best thing to do is beg borrow or buy a voltmeter Easy way is to put it on a cig lighter plug. (center pin is positive) Plug it in and watch the voltage while idling Normal charge voltage at ~1500 RPM = 13.8 -14.2 Vdc Hope this helps.

sorry gents i beg to differ with you a small vacuum leak like you describe will increase the idle speed. yep - take a look at a fuel injected car they control idle speed with a controlled vacuum leak. (air for the leak is drawn through the air cleaner) An EGR valve that is leaking exhaust gas into the intake stream at idle will cause the idle to drop and can cause stalling. The test for an EGR valve is to manually open it at idle. The EGR is closing properly if the idle speed drops. I don't believe you will believe me. old precognitions are hard to give up. Try pulling a small vacuum line off.

sounds like the EGR valve leaking

Connie, Sorry meant to mention this. The EA82 engine is non interference. i.e. no worry of valves hitting the piston

Connie, Get yourself a Xmas gift, like this one strap wrench. Good for oil filters, jar lids, cam gears ect. Sears has them also Happy Holly Daze - hope this helps

tttt..... that is a noise suppression capacitor aka condenser it filters noise that can cause static on the AM radio band. It can short out internally and cause ignition problems

The carb on your wagon (I guess this is the car to which you are referring?) has a high idle assist operated via a diaphragm. This diaphragm is operated by a vacuum control solenoid valve. When the AC is on the solenoid opens a vacuum path to the diaphragm and a lever holds the carb linkage open to offset the drag induced by the compressor. Any of the fore mentioned items may be knackered. The diaphragm is located to the driverside of the carb and has a several cm. long lever extending to the carb linkage.

If when you run a jumper wire from the positive battery post to the small spade connector on the starter the starter spins then it means the ignition switch contacts are probably toast (this is a common problem) so to rectify the problem without adding an aux. push button use any common lighting relay as follows. as a side note the connector that feeds voltage to the ignition switch has been known to cause this also. The main feed in the connector gets burned and will not let the amount of current needed to pass. This pink colored connector is under the st. col It can be easily seen after the trim panel is removed and may appear burned at the main (white colored) feed wire connection Hope this helps

those are the high beam filaments the low beam filaments could be toast

Start simple Here is a possibility one low beam burned out and you didn't notice it. some time later the other low beam burns out. You could use a pair of clip leads and test the lamps.

Mary, you're very welcome. Glad we could help. Happy Holly Daze

One place to check is the connector under the steering column that feeds battery voltage to the ignition switch. This pink colored connector is visible after removing the trim panel. If the connection is not tight, it could be building resistance. Thus the voltage drop and the ignition module in the distributor not getting enough power. I have seen these melted from the heat generated by this resistance. Another common point for resistance and voltage drop is the connection to the main fusible link. Seems corrosion causes resistance, this in turn causes the connector to the fusible link to loose it's "spring". Thus making the connection more prone to resistance and heating. Both of these could return to a good connection once the current quits flowing.

Fine idea that, butchering the dash of a car that may someday become a classic. For about 30 bucks you can get an A pillar mount that works fine and keep all switches intact Mine is from JEG's and is listed for a 90 Honda CRX

Sorry T.C. there is no relay for those items. I would check The feed from the ignition switch under the steering col. (remove trim panel - pink colored multi connector) the connections on the back of the fuse box possibly a fusible link but I doubt it. Hope this helps. Some one is sure to tell you to check the grounds - pat answer for many I don't believe these items share a common ground point