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Sorry no, I used the proven "slot and bolt "method to cure the slop. Well you may have seen the drawing there as I did both at the same time. I should do a retro post on both and quit h-jackin' Ken's knob an wheel post.

Nice work, wheel looks bloody factory mate! As for the short throw shifter, I made one for my Brat. Little grinding, little welding on the connection piece from the tranny to the shifter. (part notorious for causing a sloppy shifter). And a spacer is needed to lengthen the distance from the pivot to the fulcrum on the botton of the shifter. (I used a 1/4" pipe nipple) I have picts and a drawing if you are interested.

Thanks for the props guys. Andy, next time I have a wheel off I'll get some picts.

I would not be so quick as to doom the tranny. Change the tranny oil to Redline. If you do a search for "Redline" Suppliers and weights will be found.

This mod was done to mount Subaru center caps on Peugeot 15" alloys. The center caps were from EA82 wheels. I believe other caps will fit and other wheels (Enkei's) can use this adaptation. Simply hold a center cap over the opening to check fit, if it covers the opening you are good to go. These center caps are made from stainless steel, therefore you can "stud weld" a stud to them. http://www.machinedesign.com/BDE/FASTENING/bdefj3/bdefj3_28.html Most good body shops and sign shops have stud welding equipment. I used 10-24 x 0.75" SS studs welded to the inside center of the cap. This afforded a place to fasten an aluminum "wing nut" of sorts. I used cardboard to make a template of the wing shape. It should just about span the opening of the wheel (wedging on the inside lip of the wheel opening) and have a flat in the center. I band sawed 0.090 Al plate for the wing and break formed it to fit my template. (obviously you will need four of these) I then drilled a clearance hole for the 10-24 stud in the center of this flat. Hold center cap centered over hole, bend tabs as necessary to achieve centering. Place wing on stud and secure with nut and lock washer. I also use a small dollop of silicon sealer on the nut/threads to act as lock tight. These have been on for well over 6 months and have never worked loose. Please email me if you have any questions. BTW Tires are 225/50 R15"

Well after looking in the recommended location (i.e. near the place on the pass side shock tower where the fuel injector dropping resistors are located) and finding nothing that remotely looked like the shift resistor or it's plug. I decided to spread out my search pattern. Low and behold, behind the tower, hidden under the AC relays - whoop, der it was. Sure enough, it was unplugged - as I suspected. Long story short - plugged it in - "POWER" light quit flashing and shifts are nice and smooth now. Note: The "limp home mode" mentioned may happen when something more catastrophic happens. But in my case it drove just fine except for the harsh up shifts. Sorry for this info being on the wrong side of the board.

sorry guys Thanks for the correction I didn't know that many non turbo units existed.

Sreg, you need to look at the engine more closely. 1985 wagons were offered in a turbo version this is the only model that had fuel injection all others were carbed. You could very well have a cat that has plugged up for some reason. The smell may have been the cat overheating and melting a surronding component. A carbed car will have TWO (2) fuel filters One under the hood above the master cyl (has three(3) lines to it - it is called a vapor separator The PRIMARY filter (and one most neglected) is under the car at the fuel pump. It may be clogged to the point of only letting enough fuel through to cause the above problem. Start simple and cheap - IF the engine has a large blue metal cover with three (3) wing nuts in the center of the engine it is a carbed car ==> change the rear fuel filter hope this helps

Sorry to read this Will. I wish you well in the next endeavor For a small respite of encouragement I will say. One other wagon is still blowing 12+ psi on a daily basis. Corners very well and consumes no precious body fluids except petro (app 25 MPG) Is used for a 2.5 hour total commute through some semi serious PA hills and dales. Going on two years now. Sorry to report no clutch slippage. All temps stay at very comfortable levels. I am probably tempting fate with this post but-- My "Willy the Wunder Wagon" is whom I'm speaking. "I wunder why she's still runnin' " Good luck may the power of all the stars of the Pleiades be with you.

After doing a search, the problem I am having may be related to this resistor, or lack there of. My 89 GL-10 has a full time 4EAT. The "power" light flashes on start up, so I pulled the codes from the ECU. It indicates duty solenoid A is at fault. For those not in the know, my reading tells me, this solenoid is the one that controls the line pressure during shifting. It "softens" the shift into the next gear You sport drivers may like a "firm" shift but I feel it is harmful to the driveline. As Josh has pointed out a compromise is in order. My question (I know I should ask this on the Old Gen side as it is a GL-10 but we over there don't deal with the 4EAT much) has anyone ever seen this resistor in a GL-10? I have looked in the Legacy location and can not locate it. Possibly after reading about this "mod" the previous owner removed it. The condition has existed since I bought the car. I could check it's continuity at the transmission electrical connection, but it would real nice to find an empty connector where the resistor should be, don't you agree? Thanks in advance for any reply to this problem.

Wally, sorry mate but cars on this side of the pond do not have an AC switch (button) Ours are incorporated in the ventilation control system and triggered by a small micro switch down on the HIVAC box when specific buttons are pushed. (e.g. AC, ACmax, and DEFROST) I think it's a bit wossey so I rewire mine to a switch so I can have AC in any vent position (i.e. cold air on my feet on "HEAT" or no AC in "DEFROST") The object on the comp. front is a "pulser". The AC system watches the RPM of the comp. with it. If the belt slips or the compressor slows down ,possibly due to impending lock up, the AC control unit shuts down the system. I have a picture of our microswitch location if it would help.

The reason for the drop off could indeed be the air filter location. I also have temp probes in my air cleaner and one glued to the inner wall of my throttle body The temp in that location is not favorable for injection of air. The cross over pipe below and the electric fan out put blows right in it's face. The intake temp could be near 175 deg F couple this with the heating of the air going through the hot turbo then factor in physics (PV=NRT) you could be blowing some real hot air in the pots This in turn could lead to knocking and the ECU retarding the timing. My air filter (very similar K&N) is in the inner fender (see the picture that makes you sick.) 6500 is not problem and it feels SOP as it still pulling as strong as it does at 5000

Snowman, thanks for the compls If you want some particulars in reference to the mounting or the rewiring please email me. I have pictures of both.

Russ the tires are 225/50 15's The Pug rims have custom fitted Subaru center caps using welded studs and "AL wings" On the mods might as well add the cockpit to the list as I think if one is going to "hot rod" one needs to keep an eye on the engine

These are all driving lights (round Hella, rect KC) The ones in the bumper were fitted by removing the turn signals and rewireing one lamp in each corner lamp as the TS All are relay controlled to come on with the high beams. All have 100 w lamps fitted Factory lamps have Sylvaina Ultra vision lamps

I would need 1000 words, maybe someday?

The filter that is normally the culprit is the one back by the fuel pump under the car. This the main or "primary" filter. It is the one that seldom gets changed and is first in the line of defense against dirt and therefore takes the biggest hit. BTW The one under the hood is called a "Vapor Separator" Hope this helps, most of us "carb types" have BTDT on this problem

For those who want to know the belts are NOT set at TDC but at a point where all four (4) pistons are at their half way travel in the bore read - all pistons sitting at the same level in the cylinders. kind of ingenious if you think about it

Follow Russ's most excellent advise and ground the shielding jacket to the body of the 02 sensor with a hose clamp. The ground, as in most cases, is as important as the signal conductor. Due to the fact exhaust systems are, for the most part, mounted by rubber vibration isolators and corrosion likes to build on the fasteners. The ground path for this relatively small signal becomes a concern.

As an idle thought, have you changed the PCV valve lately? Reason? You maybe building excessive crank case pressure. Thus blowing the oil out. Word - you must use a genuine Subaru PCV valve. Like for the thermostat, there have been many posts saying the aftermarket parts do not work well in these two places. Just a thought. Hope this helps

two words air bags pump em up - go play (my recco is indepently plumbed and carry a 12v comp.) bleed em down - drive home May blow CV's if you're too ruff but the bags can easily be swap'd into your next beater The bay of E is your friend

Ray, First welcome to the board, I am from Tunnelton just up the river from Saltsburg Second so we don't confuse people Indiana is a town in PA Third There are two I know of in Apollo (just down the river from Saltsburg) North Apollo Auto Wreckers is pretty big and the other is a ma and pa place on 819 Hope this helps

Kevin, there are two horns behind the bumper ends. the easiest way to get to them is remove the headlamp assm. (four 10 mm nuts behind the core support, one sheet metal screw on top for the side marker lamp) pass side is easiest if you just want to get to the wiring in order to add an aux horn. congrats on the RX by the way - you're welcome

The ECU watches the mix via the 02 sensor. It then changes the injector pulse width duration to adjust the A/F ratio. Operative unit -->the 02 sensor. Subaru engineers have been forward thinking enough to provide you with a relatively simple way to monitor this. Remove the panel under the steering col. warm the engine to op temp. Watch the LED on the end of the ECU (bolted under the st. col.) (this LED is called the 02 monitor BTW and is the same one for checking error codes) At idle the light should flash in random intervals with a frequency of approx. once every few seconds. IF it does not flash the 02 sensor is tired and wants replaced. NOTE: contrary to what people will tell you a lazy 02 sensor will NOT set an error code in the ECU. You may be running rich and have fouled spark plugs put a set of fresh NGK's in if you can afford it. Hope this helps

I agree with Charles. I tow my MY00 2.5 RS 5 speed "4 down" for thousands of miles. It to is my "dingy" behind my motor coach. I have had no transmission related problems. As stated, the automatic 4EAT 4wd trannys are the ones that will not tolerate towing. As Cookie says, 4 down or no down even with manual trannys. *************************** I would be far more concerned with the head gaskets but you say they are not a prime concern. Maybe you are factoring the 1000 plus dollars for the repair in with the purchase price?? I say... See numerous recent posts.