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Everything posted by Skip
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Okay... no by pass or way to force it with out hot wires To wit.... the fuel pump only runs for 2 seconds when the ig sw is turned on. It will run if the car starts. It gets + battery all the time the ig sw is on via the fuel pump relay, it's ground is controled by the ECU Now... You know where it is which is good Check to see if when the ig sw is on it has + battery if not the fuel pump relay or fuse is toast. fast enough for you?? Hope this helps
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My pleasure the ramps are a great idea, will make it much easier. I just had my OB (about an hour ago) up on my ramps for an oil change. (gravel driveway) I had to put short pieces of 2x8s infront of the ramps, long edge of the ramps up on the wood. This done so the chin spoiler would clear. Ramps dug into the stone and it worked great. Good luck, pictures would be nice bonus.
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Hi DW, I changed my fogs for some Hella 5000 driving lights (rewired to my high beams) on both my OBs I had the same problem with the upper bolts salt/water must just sit up there and -> bing I had to remove the lower covers as I think the wiring is clipped in a fashion as to not let the fogs come out unless the wiring is loosen from the clips. Hope this helps
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Dude, Thanks for the tip, I have been changing the oil on all my rides at 3kmi for a long time. I just wondered if synth would help timing chain longevity. Dave, were you the person who mentioned the rear muffler bypass system? 3pin, I think the VDC may have different seats as ours are great. Heaters work fantastic, and even with a one foot height difference, the Captain and I find a comfy settings easily. but Maybe I'm butt de-sensitized by my Brat???
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If it does get "bound up" from being in 4wd. Simply back the car up ten/twenty feet. On snow covered / slushy roads you can shift in/out of 4wd at almost any rational speed. Unloading the transmission (clutch in or gas off) will make it easier. 4 Low must only be engaged at slow speeds or stopped.
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"However, on 100% of the OBD2 cars I've dealt with, the battery disconnect has cleared the codes..." WJM, I thank you kindly sir for the correction and will use this information in future studies. I use my scanner to clear codes as to not mess with the readiness monitors. (or more importantly-> the radio presets - arf arf) Also thanks for the explaination of the 02 sensors operation.
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I am needing some help here....
Skip replied to bk2valve's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Sorry guys, I dropped out yesterday as the Captain was ringing the dinner bell. The car I want to run these tests on has been sitting since well I think May 2007. I'll try** and drag a battery ect out to her today. Cougar, I'll use a digital multimeter and test what I can coming from the CAS and going to the ig amp. Brian, my dwell / tach is an antique Matco unit must be even cheaper than yours as it has no inductive lead only positive and negative. When the leads are clamped together and it is set on "Dwell" a knob is used to zero the reading at full scale defelection. The inductive clamp you have will have to be clamped around one wire at a time as current going both ways will cancel itself in the loop. good read here on inductive Amprobes. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amprobe I was thinking of trying the dwell setting to see the pulses. This test is probably all wet as the old points and can set ups did go closed (i.e. go to zero ohms) and these do not. ** we are expecting a winter rain event-- this may hamper my efforts as I hate winter rain. Chills me to the bone these daze. -
Subaru SUS?
Skip replied to EVOthis's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Nice shot OB99W, I like the color scheme. (kinda partial though -- it's the same as my OB) here's another that shows the higher OB stance a little better This was the model that Paul Hogan (Croc Dundie) was in some of the commericals for. -
I own one so I to am interested. I have seen no verification of this statement. I did read our lovely lady Emily of CCR inc say they need good oil to keep the tensioner proper. But she mentioned no mileage figure. My bet ... some one left the oil change go the tesioner went south and an urban legend was born.
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Howdy Mike, It has been said that when the thermostat cover is removed that the H20 pump's impellor can be seen. You could look and see if it is not looking like the pictures recently posted. You know the H20 pump is driven by the timing belt as thus to replace it, the front of the engine must come apart. The air you vent out is troubling, are you burping the system after every t-stat change? If so The "air" could be combustion gases. You could smell the air when you vent it or have it sniffed by a local emission shop. If this is the case - sorry join the club. I do not see why taking it to 4k RPM makes any difference except for the engine is producing more combustion gas and cylinder pressures could be higher.
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Hi Tommy in reference to O2 simulators I've never heard of one so I can't answer that but I have read about the anti foul adapter trick. To clear the codes the item causing it must be repaired. If as some eluded to the 02 output or it's wiring is faulty the code will not clear, or will reset it self as soon as closed loop mode is established (engine at normal op temp) Battery disconnect used to work on the OBD I cars but I don't think so on OBD II vehicles. Plus you then have to deal with readiness monitors... another topic Go to a large chain auto parts (i.e. AutoZone or Advanced Auto) They will scan and clear codes for free. This shop you go to must have a scanner capable also. Hope you get it fixed. Sounds like an 02 problem or something is killing your cats (too much lead in the gas???, too rich a mix due to tired 02 sensors??)