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try this post/thread Hope it helps http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83038&highlight=booster+freeze

This problem has been covered recently and is normaly attributed to moisture in the vacuum booster line. IIRC, there is a check valve that freezes, preventing vacuum from reaching the booster. You can remove the line and spray a moisture displaceant into it. I'll see if I can find the post on it.

I bet you would have trouble finding 60 series tires then too?? Is it not true that the width of the tire comes into play? Water sking on a large flat board is much easier than trying it on one's bare piggies. From the Wiki "(Narrower tires are less vulnerable to hydroplaning as all of the vehicle weight is placed on a smaller amount of rubber, thus more effectively pushing out the water to allow pavement contact)."

Hi Jeff, you are most welcome. Please remember the resistor block is by passed in the high speed position. If this position does not work, you have more issues than just the resistor block. If the relay is toast and you do not want to dig for it (real PITA in my expierence). You could run a fused wire from a good positive battery source. The cig lighter comes to mind as it is fused and is somewhat high current. Plus it is switched by the ignition. Good luck.

Hotdarn "Seems like back in the early 1900's when I took drivers ed" There were not even calculators then!! oh yea, not too many cars either???

You are most welcome Mr. Gambino sir. Hope it helps. As for the HG article, I may have provided a link I can not take credit for the write up. Thanks for the comments. I totally agree with everything else you say. As for your current situation, I'm sorry to read about it. There are other avenues you could pursue that maybe much cheaper than a CCR inc short block.

My very tired old brain needs help (a lot of help!!) This guys sells a bunch of cars. Look at his feedback. He says "Impounded by the City of Baltimore for unpaid parking tickets" Then he says " It is located in southern York,Pa. We have clear Pa. title" So he must have paided the tickets and the towing and the impound fees and got the car out of impound? How else could he have it and the title? Nipper says " I bet the winning bid was the original owenr of the car trying to screw over baltimore." Why then is the city of Ball-tit-more the one getting screwed?

What Manaius said = + 1 You could swap lamps (bulbs) side to side and see it the problem follow the lamp. Don't touch the clear part. Filament may be loose in it's casting.

Here ya go ask for Emily she's a member here and is a great lady to work with. http://www.ccrengines.com/

I like this guy, his shop is equipped a lot like mine. But much more organized it seems. I also like his choice for his "real truck"! What I don't like is the front attack angle on the Scoobygator. Ohio is pretty flat but......

Hi Jeff, having no blower motor op this time of year is "not cool" well it is actually. Sounds like you might have more than one issue. First the one problem Gloyal points out Two of the speeds that failed were from a bad resistor block. Located Under the glove box behind the blower motor. pictured here Power is fed to the blower motor directly from the blower relay (located under the dash above the ECU (there will be several there). With the key on you should see power on one wire at the blower. Speed is controlled by the switch using the resistors in the block. This puts the negative or ground side on the motor. Note: high speed (#4) is direct and by passes the resistor block giving full ground to the motor. Sounds like your blower may have had issues (mice nests most common). This causing it to draw more current that it should but not enough to blow the fuse This resulted in the relay contacts going toast. Hope this help, wrong time of the year for no blower motor.

Ratinda, that is an excellent link!! It must have been posted before but even so I thank you for the link. I wish I knew enough to say it's all correct.

" Less likely to tip over." That's right. Please notice the canards to give a bit (little bit) of stability.

Nipper, I am going to assume because of the wind that you could not smell the vapor. We both know that sickening smell in the cockpit right before you say "Chit the heater core must be leaking" I will also assume you have seen the recent post on a similar vapor issue from the rad of a car after it rains. Maybe something melted, wish we had those temps. Wait till Sunday/Monday it will refreeze fo sho

Please thank daeron for this picture I added the EGR Valve verbage

sorry Bruce, I do not have a picture Porcupine will be along shorty I feel. To find it, follow the rubber hose connected to the EGR valve, it will lead to it. Don't know where it is, what it looks like? Back of the intake look for a metal pipe coming from a disc like devise bolted to the intake. The pipe will run down behind the head and connect to it. If the devise has a rubber hose connected to the one side this is the EGR valve. Sorry about no picture, no SPFIs in my yard right now. Hope this helps.

Hi Steve, you are most welcome, Cougar one of our best electrical trouble shooters needs a shout out also. You can connect in series any amp meter capable of reading at least 50 amps to the alt output wire. Be aware this will only show the charge amperage. It is better to wire the ammeter in series with the smaller wire that connects the positive battery post to the fusible links. In this fashion it will show the charge state of the battery. This is the important current. For instance If the car is not running but ig sw is "on" and the headlights are switched on. The meter will show deflection in the negative direction showing the amperage being drawn from the battery Also known as dis-charge. If the car is started, the alt will (should) show the meter swing the other direction (positive) meaning the battery is being charged. If a situation should present itself where the car is running (above 1500 RPM) and the meter swings negative - something is a miss in the charging system. At idle it is not uncommon to see some battery discharge (meter showing a negative amperage) if many electrical devises are in operation, it should go positive as soon as the engine RPM is increased. After the alt brings the battery back to a charged state after starting, it should show a slight positive reading. If you wired the meter as you asked (series with the alt output wire) you would not see the negative readings. Sorry for the lengthy diatribe, I got a little carried away Hope this helps.

It started at 200 dollars something is not right. Look at the bid history I'm betting he don't pay.

How much do you think this weighs? It's purported to be getting an EA71 or 81 CVT belt drive (ala snowmobile) I have studied the three wheel geometry on cars and the two front wheel set up wins hands (or top) down.

Thanks Nipper, got em. and You are absolutly correct. he says "171000 miles AT trany" Looks nasty. 1997outback: I would try car-part.com for the shaft and carrier bearing. The rear 02 sesnor can be generic and is not that expensive. I guess the cat survived. As Nipper says, you could fix this in your driveway.

I think Gloyale gets a BINGO!! Well done G. Too many times I overlook the obvious in search of the complicated, again well done. On the test connectors my bad, I am an MPFI guy (used to be) The SPFI must be white and green. The green ones are what I meant to mention. Both sets should have matching counter components neither should be plugged in when using the car. Try this link but knowing yours are under the hood. (do not be mis lead by the bold words at the top) http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ Spinnaker, Your boating prowess is now something to be admired!! You'll figure this simple SPFI bit out in no time!!

Yikes this one is going to getsome??? Along with transmission type, and mileage. Could you possibly give us some more details??

Yea HA!! A hearty WELL DONE to daeron for that post!! Spin, I am sure you know the diagnostic connectors are by the drivers side hood hinge. You probably also know plugging the white set in causes many sysyems to cycle The fuel pump being one of them. I like your idea about "juicing" the injector. Since it is a "duty cycle" type devise I doubt 9Vdc will hurt it and should, as you suspect, open it. With the fuel pump in cycle on off mode you should see gas coming from the injector. Good luck, Dearon set you up with good info. Thanks for the story of your Yatching outing, sounds like fun, until the doldrum like winds anyhow. My home was a small 24 foot Irwin 10/4 live aboard. She was blue water worthy and had a 10' 4" beam -> was very heavy (read serious displacement). I used her on this side of the 48 in a small body of brakish called the Chesepeke Bay. (my nickname Skip comes from being the Skipper)

Thanks for the link Nipper. Wish I had a WRX or... to try it on. I have a Ford diesel that I "reflash" the ECU using a "tuner". (scanner type unit with volatile memory) The "tune" put on is dependent on the use (Tow, street power, econ) It is common practice with these newer diesels, as I am sure you know. A few of the guys on the diesel forums use the Enginuity software for Fords with great success. Hope some one here tries it.

Hey Spinny, I think it's the leech of the mainsal(sic) that's causing this, I only get it when we're wing on wing oh -- THREE - duck!!! There are many of us "Canvas power " freaks floating around. Good idea on pulling the throttle body, sure makes it easier to get to the TPS let alone the IAC. Since it fires on a dribble, it kinda shows the injector is not injecting as you say. Here is one real WAG. If you hold the skinny pedal to the metal The ECU goes into a "clear the flood" mode and will not inject gas. Could something in the TPS/wiring be telling the ECU to think it's at WOT?