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Hi Will, Thanks for the offer but I am way to old for "dukein' " Ivan gets dibs. Couple items you say the OB needs a rad and T-stat it's not overheating is it? As for the "stealer" says this and that. Sounds like a second opinion is needed here. We have quite a few Cali folk here. Maybe one can recco a good stealer (oxymoron I know) to you.

Thanks Porc !! As always you are "da-man" Part #s and all. Only thing missing is the video of the replacement proceedure. My bet you're workin' on it!!

Correct Will, starting in 97 the 2.2 suffers a train crash (of the valve variety) when the T belt says bye bye. Take the OB, better ground clearance, parts availability, chance of passing smog room to carry stuff and so on. Sell me your hatch on the way by, or add a hitch to the OB and tow it as a dingy.

Come on Porc, you're slippin' shown him where it's at. LOL He may have a loose dirty connection. It could be a first... internal short in the CTS/wiring ECU thinks it's 20 deg C all the time? Great idea on using a scan tool to watch the engine temp BTW.

I'm with Porc on this one. The Fuel injection coolant thermosensor. By chance do the rad fans run when the key is switched on, but the AC and defrost are off? It is possible the cold start flooding has fouled a plug or two.

The other consideration is You live in THE coldest place in the lower 48. You also have probably over 2 foot of fresh white chit. Getting your car fixed correctly means a lot more to you than to some of us not so "environmentally challenged". Good luck sir, very beautiful country you live in but not for me.

spark plug wires on incorrectly

my 91 SS has a lever at the latch in the trunk to disable the remote release. You need to look in an owners manual. I think I have one for an 87, I'll look.

I vote for the Brat put it in nuetral "four down" and you are good to go. I toad(sic) my 5 speed Imp as a dingy for thousands of miles behind my motorcoach. Note: "Toad" in RV parlance is the name for the towed car or dingy as I call'em

You are most welcome Blaze, Cougar helped in this endevour also. Thanks for the wire color up date, way kewl on that! I am hoping to do the test we talked about but am thinking I need the correct dash lamp - wattage wise. If you plan on taking the sender / pump / thermistor out of the tank. I doubt the wires are long enough but you could plug the harness back in (with the thermistor in open air) and see if it lights. Thanks again for the update. P.S. I edited your post to correct the missing html quote hope you do not mind.

I trick I have used is to strap the intake close to the broken bolt. Use an engine crane to lift - not off the ground but put some weight on the crane. Liberal app of PB followed by some raps on the bolt with a punch equal in dia. to the bolt. (another bolt will do) You do not want to mushroom the broken bolt. Let sit in the hung position come back next Sat. and try again. Hope this helps, nice looking RX (it wasn't Kevins was it?)

sounds like a fuel issue or lack there of a car as nice as this deserves an A/F meter. possibilities fuel filter, fuel pump, FPR

7/8" socket will work also assuming you mean to turn the crank

I use Scotch bright and white paint. Many are missing, depends on the car's use.Common sense says yes. but as I said many do not have it. I did not read where it had dual range sorry I guessed it was push button because of this. Does the dash look like it's been removed? It can be changed with the engine in the car.Use normal dist. change practices. I take it your checked the screw????

Change the oil. 4.5 qt with filter change Then "Also, when I take the distributor cap off, I can twist the rotor a couple degrees back and forth. Is this a big deal, or is there usually some play here?" No it should be tight, make sure the screw is in and is tight. see the screw here "I don't have a timing light or anything so maybe that's something I should pick up. " If you do, you must plug the green connectors together to check the timing. "Also, the timing marks on the crank are difficult to see - any tips on making them more legible?" The timing is checked on the flywheel There should be a black rubber cover. "Oh, and I found today that not only is the ECS light out, but also the lights for the 4wd system in the dash." You might want to make sure it's in 4wd Move the car twenty feet or so with the button pushed. The code 35 is a very coomon problem purge solenoid, you find a lot of info on it in these pages. 31 is for the TPS, that's an odd one.

Nipper says "Its a fake bid. So now they have to relist it again, probably for a fee.......... people are not going to bid." I'm sorry Nipper, that still does not answer why you say this?? " I bet the winning bid was the original owenr of the car trying to screw over baltimore." The city doesn't own or even have possession of the car. It's in York, PA as I said. The auction is a travesty, I agree with you. But I don't understand your reasoning in that statement. Sorry, It has to have something to do with my lame old brain as I do get sooooo corn-fused these daze.

Here is a sampling of four out of five of my Legacy wagons. The one on the bottom is one of my two turbo wagons the other is not in the picture. Down the list 1) Vee Dee 2) Darkside 3) Oh Bee 4) Slee Pa

No talking "relativity" here please. I am only at 70 kmi on my H6 I do not need to look forward to a 3k$ expense at 150 Porcupine says it best What about the H20 pump? When it reaches this mi. a 1000$ H20 pump may spell it's demise. Is this their plan for obsolesce? I would be a fool to change only the pump at this venture.... see above costs. So this leads me to understand that Fuji thinks, us folks that buy this top of the line car will trade up to their new junk when it needs a water pump? pitiful just pitiful I say. This bean counter mentality pulls a large vacuum. I am sure they (FHI) are not alone. I think BMW has a better plan.

Sorry Nipper that still not answer your original statement. " I bet the winning bid was the original owenr of the car trying to screw over baltimore." I am sure you will explain in detail.

good question thus my question (please see the previous posts)

here's a list for shopping Thanks to Porcupine73 www.1stsubaruparts.com www.subaruparts.com www.subarupartsforyou.com www.subaru-parts-dealer.com www.subarugenuineparts.com

Thanks for the reply Wounded but how does that answer this "Why then is the city of Ball-tit-more the one getting screwed?"

Way kewl Tim, Give Gloyale the credit for this one. You might try a Seafoam treatment in the petrol tank. The injector could want a bit of cleaning. The TOD can be Mickey or some other things. Might wanna try some Marvel Mystery oil in the crankcase. Lots of people have had luck with it. Takes a hundred miles or so to work it's magic. As for the low reading on the OP gauge. Many say go aftermarket. Some say (my expierence here) try another oil pressure sender unit first.

another good thing to remember is as the tire wears and the tread depth gets less and less The ability to channel the water out also becomes less and less. Worn tires in the rain can be dangerous. Ever see a F-1 race where it starts to rain before they have changed to rain tires? It looks like they are ice racing without studs or good snows.

You're welcome Hope it's an easy/cheap fix.