Skip

make sure the milk is pasturized ;^)

" That would be a bit of a trek for me." Yea, KD is would be, that picture is from my shed out back. Maybe 5000 round trip or so. Ed is kickin' out the hot skinny on this. If you still want/need mo' juice. There is also a GM alt that can be swapped in and some Mazda/Nissan models that fit. I believe both have been covered here at some point. Good luck sounds like you'll do fine.

And note, it's a KM/Hr speedo 100 KM/hr = 62 MPH Zoom Zoom -> BOOM

Please, I'm with Dave, keep us updated. There are not a lot of us H6 guys here on the board. Sure looks tight in there, even getting the fans and the rad out looks "hairy"

If you saw no flashing the first thing is the 02 sensor/wiring. I know it's a pain in the butt to get at, I made a special wrench to get it out. I borrowed one from a Subaru dealer and it didn't fit. I may still have it around if you'd like to borrow it. I know your low on skins but an 02 sensor is not outrageous You can use a universal one Oxygen Sensor Item#: BSH11027 Price: $21.49 tax and shipping not included Disclaimer: The stated price may vary from the in store price and may change at anytime. Attributes: # of Wires:1 Heated or Unheated:Unheated Additional Contents:Unit only This is fro NAPA Cheaper is purchased at the store my last one was 17 clams

I'd say, time for a Diamond coil pack. I saw you changed it but did not see what brand or from where. Plus I think you should listen to WAwalker and his valve adj advise. He is one of THE best techs we have here. This seems to have been dropped back on page one. If you did have them checked/done and I missed it, I apologize.

sorry Garth, I know you do not like being "preached to" You will need to see what code is stored now. You can not just assume it's the same one. Maybe you left the gas cap loose - for instance.

I like Mile's and Kevin's logic but wonder what the exhaust/brake lines look like from sitting. To follow up 3Pin's idea... Can anyone spell t-o-r-q-u-e b-i-n-d Maybe thats why they don't get it fixed and sell it for ???? I'm a wagon guy anyhow. Show me your Oh Bee.

Did I miss somewhere where someone said Use only distilled water with any mix type AF?? Is the Subaru AF premixed?

Myles, If all your tires are the same diameter. There is nothing wrong, they all take a few revolutions to engage/ diengage. You can't use it on unslick surfaces, you know that right?

Might wanna ask that question here http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/

------------>>rewinds the tape again<<------------- The current needed to trigger the relay is so small the ig switch will provide this for years. Repeat ... I have never had an ig sw fail to a point that it would not pull the relay closed. Do as you wish. You can always add the magic button later to trigger the relay. Now you'd have the best of both worlds.

The air control valve is used to set the idle speed. (Sometimes known as the IAC valve - Idle Air Control) I doubt your main problem is there as you say it idles well. If it were leaking the idle would not be normal. Now the 02 sensor is very important. The light you watched to get the codes is actually the 02 monitor light. If you start the car and let it warm up into closed loop. Now watch the 02 monitor (no connectors plugged together) If the 02 sensor is functioning properly this light will come on and go off in random intervals. What it is showing is the output of the 02 sensor and the ECU's reaction. If you see no light, the 02 sensors output or wiring is to be suspect. Hope this helps.

If you try Gloyale's sugg Please disconnect the battery first (10 mm wrench) The big wire on the back of the alt is always hot. Or take it to this guy, he is local to me ;^)

I have also had many Subes of the vintage you speak, several of which had this problem. 15 minute fix, no starter removal no mystery button Hope this helps

way kewl link Monsta thanks for sharing

sorry no flairs or fanfair just a little side by side compare

Have you tried moving the car in this condition? as per "the car had to move a bit (maybe an in gear sensor or VSS) that would trigger the comp to come on and "air up" the car."

a) Check all bat cable ends at their connectors. Clean where the connectors connect. (note this is two different operations) c) try a good battery - if no crank try jumping the solenoid (very common problem with these, worn starter solenoid contacts and worn ig. switch contacts yield no crank) d) your bettery charger has a brain and the battery is too low for it to "see it" . Use a manual charger first or connect it via jumper cables to your runing GL-10 for a couple minutes. This will put a "surface charge" on the battery and your "smart charger" should see it. Hope this helps a little.

Some items come to mind from when I had my XT 6 with rump roast (Air Suspension System) 1) Just tuning the car "on" does not trigger the rump roast There was a timer after the car was started and sometimes the car had to move a bit (maybe an in gear sensor or VSS) that would trigger the comp to come on and "air up" the car. 2) With the tire in the air the height switch in the shock would tell the rump roast ECU the shock is at maximum height. The ECU would let air out if anything. Not put air in. Lower the jack to a point where that side is lower by a bit than the others. Start the car an wait a minute or so for the compressor to start and air up. 3) The height switches inside the strut are detailed and troubleshooting them is covered in my XT 6 FSM. You will need some form of continuity tester fort this.

I have used this method of "driving the BFH through" the joint and it has worked it's magic every time until I worked on Davebug's Legacy from 'ell I believe the reason it does not work on some of these is you are not hitting the joint but the stamped sheet metal around the joint. Thus the excellent reasoning Chux gives does not occure. Dave had the rent the puller he mentioned.

did you look real careful at the fuel fller tube behind the plastic shield. They have a nasty habit of rusting through there.

Thanks STi22B GD's original picture had the slot that needs cut but showed it cut too short and no bolt size shown. I also modified it to show how to make an EA81 short shifter. I believe Mick may have used my chopped version I will not swear to that. Mr. Greenly sir. Yes, as you said. and noted by GD. After using a drift to remove the roll pins from below. (these are now in the hole where the bolt is a small cotter pin in the middle and two pins one inside the other.) Removing the in the car covers the spring can be removed and the entire assmbly lifted out for cutting the slot. I remember using a nylon sink water valve washer to correct the slop in the lower pivot bushing. The bolt sized as noted will fit into the hole where the roll pins were removed, no drilling necessary as I remember. I don't drive like the late Colin McRea maybe that's why it's worked fine for so long? Hope this helps.

actually it's called "jack chain" But if you wanna rob the one out of your water closet??? More power to ya. Maybe I should explain, I forgot to put the cap back on once after adding oil. Now if I do, it's not ten miles behind me.

or put this in the tires before it happens